Are Pocket Sharpeners Bad

[Rich53]

Hi, everyone.

I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. I've heard that pocket sharpeners are not good for blades. Or, maybe they are too good in that the carbide slots can easily strip the tempering off the edge of a blade if you're not careful.

Is this true? When I first got into knife collecting, I bought cheap knives like Eafengrow and Kubey. I used an inexpensive pocket sharpener on them, and I have noticed that they don't hold an edge well anymore--- not even for cheap knives.

I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks!

[cudgee]

To keep it simple. Yes.

[Sharpnshinyknives]

Hi, everyone.

I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. I've heard that pocket sharpeners are not good for blades. Or, maybe they are too good in that the carbide slots can easily strip the tempering off the edge of a blade if you're not careful.

Is this true? When I first got into knife collecting, I bought cheap knives like Eafengrow and Kubey. I used an inexpensive pocket sharpener on them, and I have noticed that they don't hold an edge well anymore--- not even for cheap knives.

I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks!

Part of why that blade won’t hold an edge is that the pocket sharpener has most likely removed the bevel from the edge. You are basically using a blunt piece of stainless that has had a pocket sharpener scrapped over the edge and makes it pointed, not sharp. The only thing I use a pocket sharpener on is a fish hook.

[cody6268]

Put simply, yes.

I used them early on, but tossed them when I got my first stones. I learned to sharpen, the knives I'd sharpened them on were a nightmare to get a real edge on. The hardest knives in recent years I've sharpened was sharpened with pull-throughs. As Mark said, they really don't put an edge on a knife. They also shave off too much metal.

A 400 grit DMT sharpener or an old-school Norton pocket sharpening stone work fine. I use the Norton heavily, and have a 1000 grit DMT, but have been meaning to add the coarse and fine versions.

https://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/poc ... -fine.html

If I'm not mistaken, this is the EXACT same stone that comes with the USAF survival knife.

https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/p ... cket-stone

[Mumbleypeg]

Pocket sharpeners are terrible for beginners. They’re handy for doing a touch up in the field if the user knows what they’re doing. Otherwise they cause more problems than solutions. Many a blade has been ruined by a pocket sharpener. And many a novice at sharpening has been ruined as well, especially using those small pocket stones, thinking they're just not coordinated enough, can’t learn how to use a freehand sharpener, or whatever.

Get a large stone, 6 by 1-1/2 inches at least - bigger is better. Diamond is better also. With a larger stone you can learn to freehand sharpen, and with practice you can return the correct bevel to a blade. After you’ve learned to sharpen and get a good edge on a large stone, then you can try a pocket sharpener. But even then a pocket sharpener should not be the primary tool used. JMO

Ken

[Rich53]

Many a blade has been ruined by a pocket sharpener.

Tell me about it! Fortunately, I only ruined my less expensive knives. I caught on to what was going on before I bought my first Benchmade.

I love my electric Work Sharp belt sharpener. I use that pretty much exclusively these days.

[Rich53]

What about diamond rod sharpeners?

[tallguy606]

I noticed after a while that my V rod pull through sharpener will leave a wavy edge. Even if I swap sides of the sharpener. Seem sharp, but may be a wire edge.

[cudgee]

What about diamond rod sharpeners?

Do you mean V rod sharpeners. Like this.

[Rich53]

I was thinking more like this:

[cudgee]

I was thinking more like this:

[email protected]

If you can use one properly, they are okay. But remember they are only one grit, so if you want different grits, eg.. course, medium and fine or even super fine, can workout an expensive way to go. But if you are confident in using one, then yes by all means they are okay.

[Mumbleypeg]

I was thinking more like this:

[email protected]

When sharpening you need repeatability of the sharpening angle. That single rod requires more skill on the part of the user than fixed rods anchored in a comparatively more stable block or platform resting firmly on a table.

Rods set at a fixed angle are more conducive to repeatable “strokes” of a blade being sharpened. The variable is the angle at which the blade is being held, whereas the rods are “fixed”. In the situation of the single hand-held rod you have variability in both the angle (and stability) of the rod and the blade.

Hi, everyone.

I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. I've heard that pocket sharpeners are not good for blades. Or, maybe they are too good in that the carbide slots can easily strip the tempering off the edge of a blade if you're not careful.

Is this true?

I don’t see an answer to this question yet. “Tempering” of steel is induced by heat treatment. Sharpening should not remove temper unless the tempered steel is over-heated, as can happen with indiscriminate use of power sharpeners. It would be very unlikely a sufficient level of heat would be created using a “pocket sharpener”. I would hope anyone using power sharpeners is aware of the damage possible by over-heating the blade, and take precautions accordingly. One reason why I don’t use power sharpeners on pocket knives - I have no idea how to do it, nor (at least in my case as a collector hobbyist) can I see any reason for it. Best left to pros who know what they are doing!

Ken

[FRJ]

What about diamond rod sharpeners?

Since you're considering other options; have you considered stones at all?

[Rich53]

What about diamond rod sharpeners?

Since you're considering other options; have you considered stones at all?

I do own a Lansky stone.

[TripleF]

Learning a lot in this thread

[FRJ]

I do own a Lansky stone.

If you can get larger stones, 6" and larger, they offer a great variety in grit for not too much money if you buy them used. Yard sales and flea markets are a good source for a variety of grits and sizes. Start with coarse stones first so you can see a obvious change in how your edge is developing.
If you can do this, In my opinion, with some practice you will be at a huge advantage.

[cudgee]

Learning a lot in this thread

Good to hear mate, we should never stop learning.

[Rich53]

I do own a Lansky stone.

If you can get larger stones, 6" and larger, they offer a great variety in grit for not too much money if you buy them used. Yard sales and flea markets are a good source for a variety of grits and sizes. Start with coarse stones first so you can see a obvious change in how your edge is developing.
If you can do this, In my opinion, with some practice you will be at a huge advantage.

Thanks! I'll have to look into this.

[marinaio61]

I have a Victorinox pocket sharpener that consists of a medium ceramic rod on one end and fine ceramic pull through on the other. The medium rod is very good but the pull through will often produce a wire edge or burr if the blade is even slightly tilted in use. I use the Vic when I travel and stones the rest of the time. I don't use diamond plares, too aggressive for my taste.

[carvin don]

Sharp tools are for sissies ... push harder!

Seriously though ... I'm no professional, but I highly doubt you would ruin the temper by hand sharpening. As Ken stated, over heating is your enemy in that regard. I sharpen with power but prefer diamond stones when honing by hand. Another thing to consider is a strop ... I was taught there are two main criteria to obtain a sharp edge ... 1) create a wire burr 2) then remove it (by stropping).

Whether you choose power, stones, etc ... at the end of the day, all we're doing is removing metal equally on both sides of the blade to create an "edge" or "wire burr." Remove the burr by stropping. If you held your breathe/angles just right you'll have a razor sharp edge.

If sharpening with power, remember, heat is your enemy, so keep a cup of water handy to quench the blade as you grind away.

There are many ways to sharpen, once you find what works for you stick with it and practice.

[1967redrider]

Sharp tools are for sissies ... push harder! . . .
. . . There are many ways to sharpen, once you find what works for you stick with it and practice.

Hey Don, are you going to the SVKCC show next weekend? Herb and I will be there.


I use a pull-through sharpener in the kitchen for a quick touch-up when the tomato slicer isn't slicing.

[carvin don]

Hey John,

Yes! ... I plan to be at the show on Saturday. I'll be the short guy with a hat and suspenders I'll keep an eye out for you.

[orvet]

I don't use the carbide "V" sharpeners because of the jagged uneven and often dull edge they leave.
The pocket ceramic "V" are ok if used properly,
but I find them best for a touch up of a flexible fish fillet knife, but not my preferred method.

I prefer to use stones, diamonds or ceramic stones and to finish up with a strop.

I use a piece of new leather belting. Actually scraps from a local belt maker and glue it to an 18 to 24" piece of wood (I glue the smooth side to the wood). I can clamp the wood in a vise and have the strop at the right high to work without back pain.
I rub the leather with Flexcut Gold, an abrasive on the rough side of the leather and strop the blade. Often just the stropping by to put a shaving edge on a knife.

I also like Japanese water stones but they take a lot of time to use and leave a mess afterwards. Very good just not quick to use.

[1967redrider]

Hey John,

Yes! ... I plan to be at the show on Saturday. I'll be the short guy with a hat and suspenders I'll keep an eye out for you.

Sounds good!

[Dinadan]

This is a very interesting thread.

I have a couple of the v pocket sharpeners, but after a few uses I decided that they were not for me. I only use stones. When I worked I always had a little 4" x 1" stone in my pocket that I used on my pocket knife and machete. Now that I am retired I do not usually carry a stone unless I am doing something knife intensive in the garden. When I do carry these days it is a 3" x 1.5" soft Arkansas.