Is it possible to replace this main blade?

[Maddogfl]

Or practical? Case was no help to me, "blade no longer available." There was a number on the back side of the blade, but it is too worn to read, even with magnifiers or the camera tricks. Will I just have to whittle a new blade?

[Jeffinn]

I’m not a Case guy but it looks like a 6265 case folding hunter. I’m sure one of the Case folks will be by shortly with more information for you.
Jeff

[OLDE CUTLER]

Yes, it is possible, but besides possible you should also ask "Is it economically feasible?" I have a very similar knife that I have been looking for a replacement blade for. Going on 3 years, so I am not optimistic.

[Reverand]

If you just want it as an EDC, you might consider having the main blade removed and just use the spey.

[herbva]

I agree with Reverand. I have converted quite a few of those 65's with broken blades into single blade knives, and they make great EDC's. As already mentioned, it is very hard to find one with a good clip, but the rest of the knife is in bad shape. But, if you do find one, they are very easy, solid knives to work on.

[1967redrider]

Case stopped making -65s???

[OLDE CUTLER]

Case stopped making -65s???

The knives pictured are old models that Case no longer makes parts for. They are currently making these, but the parts do not interchange with the old models shown.

[1967redrider]

Case stopped making -65s???

The knives pictured are old models that Case no longer makes parts for. They are currently making these, but the parts do not interchange with the old models shown.

Gotcha, did not know that. I'll have to do a little comparison.

[Maddogfl]

I agree with Reverand. I have converted quite a few of those 65's with broken blades into single blade knives, and they make great EDC's. As already mentioned, it is very hard to find one with a good clip, but the rest of the knife is in bad shape. But, if you do find one, they are very easy, solid knives to work on.

I really like that idea. It is a project I will try to tackle, because if I screw it up, I won't have to cry about it.

[herbva]

I agree with Reverand. I have converted quite a few of those 65's with broken blades into single blade knives, and they make great EDC's. As already mentioned, it is very hard to find one with a good clip, but the rest of the knife is in bad shape. But, if you do find one, they are very easy, solid knives to work on.

I really like that idea. It is a project I will try to tackle, because if I screw it up, I won't have to cry about it.

If you run into any trouble, send me a PM and I will be glad to walk you through it.

[Maddogfl]

I agree with Reverand. I have converted quite a few of those 65's with broken blades into single blade knives, and they make great EDC's. As already mentioned, it is very hard to find one with a good clip, but the rest of the knife is in bad shape. But, if you do find one, they are very easy, solid knives to work on.

I really like that idea. It is a project I will try to tackle, because if I screw it up, I won't have to cry about it.

If you run into any trouble, send me a PM and I will be glad to walk you through it.

I really appreciate that, and I may well take you up on it. Just be gentle with me, I am new and fragile.

See if I am on the right path. Penetrating oil, drive out three pins, bag up the parts I no longer want, clean and polish everything, reassemble in the reverse order, and cross my fingers that I don't drop the pins into the bottomless pit that is my work shop floor. The scales will be able to remain in place, right? My big question is are the pins peened enough that I need to drill the tops on one side before tapping, (or banging) them out?

I have good punches, and ball-peen hammers from two ounces to two pounds. I can make a jig to hold the knife while I beat and bang on it. If I fail, you folks can come pick through the woods around my shop for the parts. If I succeed, I will donate the excess parts to anyone who may need them.

Archeologist will have a grand time in the woods beyond my barn, there may even be a whole pistol out there somewhere, but I know that there is at least a dozen 1911 magazines, and several knuckle-busting wrenches out there, rusting away under the Oaks.

[OLDE CUTLER]

I wouldn't try to drive the pins out, but cut them from the inside with a utility knife blade. The pins are larger on the ends and trying to drive them out can damage the bolsters.

[Reverand]

I have only repaired two Case knives, and on both I had to cut the pivot pins more than once to disassemble the knife. I have drilled one side and removed pivot pins on other brand knives, but not either Case. That may just be my bad luck, I don't know.
I would get some pin stock and plan on replacing the pins, if I were you. Use a small hammer to peen the pins. Multiple light taps works best.
You are right about the scales - they can stay where they are.
Be very careful though: working on pocket knives can be very addictive!

[herbva]

Or practical? Case was no help to me, "blade no longer available." There was a number on the back side of the blade, but it is too worn to read, even with magnifiers or the camera tricks. Will I just have to whittle a new blade?

Maddog, I suggest that you look at some of the tutorials before you get started. There is a very good one by Dale on cutting the pins to take a knife apart, that I looked at years ago, that changed the way I usually take a knife apart. I prefer to lay the knife on a hard surface, on its back to do this operation, but that is just a matter of personal preferance. viewtopic.php?f=38&t=5236
But first, I always start with removing the rocker pin (center pin that goes through the spring or springs). I usually grind the head off one side (or drill it off) and then tap it out the other side. Then the pressure from the springs is released and you can cut the pivot pins and then disassemble and clean everything, make any repairs that are needed and reassemble. You will need NS and brass pin stock of the correct size. For your folding hunter, I think the pins are either 3/32" or 7/64". There are also tutorials on peening, and I remember a good one by Kaleb (aka Muskratman). Now that I think of it, you might want to start with practicing on a junker or two that you don't mind destroying before you tackle a good knife that you want to keep.

[Maddogfl]

Or practical? Case was no help to me, "blade no longer available." There was a number on the back side of the blade, but it is too worn to read, even with magnifiers or the camera tricks. Will I just have to whittle a new blade?

Maddog, I suggest that you look at some of the tutorials before you get started. There is a very good one by Dale on cutting the pins to take a knife apart, that I looked at years ago, that changed the way I usually take a knife apart. I prefer to lay the knife on a hard surface, on its back to do this operation, but that is just a matter of personal preferance. viewtopic.php?f=38&t=5236
But first, I always start with removing the rocker pin (center pin that goes through the spring or springs). I usually grind the head off one side (or drill it off) and then tap it out the other side. Then the pressure from the springs is released and you can cut the pivot pins and then disassemble and clean everything, make any repairs that are needed and reassemble. You will need NS and brass pin stock of the correct size. For your folding hunter, I think the pins are either 3/32" or 7/64". There are also tutorials on peening, and I remember a good one by Kaleb (aka Muskratman). Now that I think of it, you might want to start with practicing on a junker or two that you don't mind destroying before you tackle a good knife that you want to keep.

Thanks for the tips. I converted the knife from a case to a knife today, and I winged it. My first disassembly and reassembly.

Of course, I did not have the correct pin stock, so I used the oversized stuff that I had. I redrilled all of the necessary holes in the spring, blade and liners on my cheap drill press. I decided to discard the old scales that were heavily worn and one side was cracked at all of the pins. I didn't have pins for that either, but I did have the appropriate sized nails. I got it back together, it is tight, with good snap and it feels a lot better in the hand. I have stopped before the final sanding an polishing to let the sealer I put on the wood dry so that I won't have to fight the polishing compound. I took some closeup pics that show my worst areas. I will deal with them tomorrow, and start putting final finish on the scales. It will never be a thing of beauty, but it will be something that I won't be ashamed to pull out of my pocket. It was a fun way to spend half a day.

EDIT: I decided to slap some oil on it and call it done.

[Reverand]

That looks great! You really changed that from Trash to Treasure! What kind of wood is that?

[Meridian_Mike]

Nice job!
That is using your head.

[just bob]

Yes, it is possible, but besides possible you should also ask "Is it economically feasible?" I have a very similar knife that I have been looking for a replacement blade for. Going on 3 years, so I am not optimistic.

IMG_4480.JPG

Is the blade in that knife not a Case blade? I have some XX blades for a 6265, but they are about in the same shape as the blade in your picture.

[1967redrider]

Way better than I could have done, and the perfect EDC and conversation piece.

Pine scales? Still USA made too.

[OLDE CUTLER]

Yes, it is possible, but besides possible you should also ask "Is it economically feasible?" I have a very similar knife that I have been looking for a replacement blade for. Going on 3 years, so I am not optimistic.

IMG_4480.JPG

Is the blade in that knife not a Case blade? I have some XX blades for a 6265, but they are about in the same shape as the blade in your picture.

Yes, it is a Case blade, but some rocket scientist thought they could take an old worn blade like that and sharpen both sides and make a folding dagger out of it. Problem is when you fold the blade in, it only covers one of the edges and the other "edge" is out in the open to cut your fingers or worse.

[glennbad]

Nice save, good use of what you have on hand!

[orvet]

Nice job, it looks a ton better! Great save!

[Maddogfl]

Way better than I could have done, and the perfect EDC and conversation piece.

Pine scales? Still USA made too.

You won't get that pine at the local Home Depot. 25 years ago, I tore down a barn that was over 100 years old to salvage the lumber. When the barn was built the old growth long-leaf pine was so plentiful they only used the heart of the wood in construction. The burned the stuff that we use to build houses now days. The Heart Pine is naturally resistant to insects and rot, it is very strong and very hard. (like me) Not only that but it looks good and smells good! (again, like me)

My next set of scales are going to be cut out of a block of ancient Live Oak that was once a part of the USS Constitution's armor belt. When they renovated the old gal in the 80s, they sold pieces to help pay for the restoration. The block that I have is part of the "Iron" in Old Ironsides. I just need to find the right blade in need of new clothes.

[1967redrider]

That's cool!

I have a couple A. Wright, Sheffield, pocket knives with reclaimed wood scales, one from HMS. Victory and another with Magna Carta Oak.

[Meridian_Mike]

That is just so cool to have that vintage and historic wood.