tiger coral and super glue

[pmike5869]

Ok I give up. I've tried to sand/polish/finish these tiger coral scales and don't seem to be getting anywhere. I keep adding the superglue, let it dry and sand using 400 grit. They're pretty smooth but where do you stop? When I try to polish with Mr Dremel the darn stuff just wrinkles like it is burning but not turn brown. I am willing to finish with 2000 grit and leave it at that but wanted the input from someone who knows what the heck is going on. The material seems to have a lot of voids/soft spots. They're too expensive to throw away and after using recond this is a pain. Thx for any help
Mike

[Rupe]

Try one of your local auto body supply stores. 3M has what they call their Trizact polishing system. They offer a foam backed 3000grit polishing pad that is designed to be used wet. You can order them here: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merc ... ry_Code=M3

Finish sand the slabs with the Trizact 3000 grit then an automotive grade polish by hand. Look for a product that says "swirl remover" 3M, McGuires, Farecla, and others make it.

3M's UltraFinaSE (swirl eliminator) is pricey, but a quart will last for quite a long time.
http://www.detailandstripes.com/3mpe30ulse06.html You could also polish up your car with it but that seems too much like work to me.

If you'd like, send me a PM with your address and I'll send you one of the 3000 grit 6" pads so you can "try before you buy". You'll be surprised how long one pad will last. You can also e-mail me at Rupestris@gmail.com.

Just so I don't sound like I'm trying to sell 3M stuff, I don't work for 3M but we use a lot of their products at work.

Chris

[pmike5869]

Thx Chris for the reply, makes a lot of sense. One further question... do you keep on applying super glu til all the voids are filled? I can easily do that. I take it that the final finish is almost all superglu? Seems durable enough,,, why not. Just never thought of the stuff as a finish like varnish or poly.

[Hukk]

Chris is 100% correct and thanks for some of the other info. Using CA (super glue) will keep the pores from filling up with buffing compound also. For this I usually just use the cheap stuff. I've seen that on a lot of knives. There are a few ways to go about it.

I buy my Tiger Coral from Culpepper (as well as a bunch of other stuff) http://www.knifehandles.com

You can always call and ask for advice also. I belive it was Joe that I have spoken to.

I have heard rumors that they will be offering a knockout looking fossilized coral (possibly Indonesian - just a guess, I bought some on ebay and it is very nice) that is not listed yet. It's not the one listed now, but will likey need lapidary equipment. I need to follow that up.

[pmike5869]

Being the extremely impatient sort of guy that I am, I tried sanding final finish with 2000 grit. I recently have had an epiphany with Simichrome used on recond. Decided to try some on this mess and I'm absolutely astonished with the finish I got. Just as fine as if I had buffed with Mr Dremmel. The only problem so far is that I now see where I need to do some more work on filling a small number of places on the scale. My finish is mirror smooth and the color of the coral is revealed in all it's glory. Wish pics could reveal the quality of finish. Just an hr ago I was ready to scrap it.

[Diligence]

One thought about buffing with the Dremel - I imagine that even on low speeds...say 5000rpm a minute, with a 2" diameter buff, the wheel surface speed would be very high - high enough to easily melt the CA finish?

J

[Hukk]

I would think the speed would be high but I don't think you can put much of a load on a Dremel. I haven't used them for any buffing so I can't be of much help there. I have 2, 1 in a drill press for drill bits and cut-offs and the other with a flex shaft for a variety of bits and small sanding drums. For drilling I use anywhere from 100 RPM to nearly 15000 RPM. Yes, 100 is correct.

I just got my new K&G catalog for 2008 and 2009 and on page 19 they have an FYI on buffer speed. Even though I have a 10 inch buffer (weighs 100 LBS) with 1HP and it runs at 1725 RPM, I rarely use a 10 inch wheel. I use a mix of 6 (surface speed 2750) and 8 inch (surface speed 3650) wheels primarily. With this Buffer I can bear down hard enough to put a gouge in recon with a 6 inch wheel yet it will leave CA intact using a fine buff - white.

Get a K&G catalog and check it out, they have helpful tidbits throughout.

I guess I don't have enough knowledge of the Dremel used in this manner to have an answer other than I think there would be 2 or more variables, speed, load, and ?? to fully answer.

I usually either leave a CA finish or just buff the top off - leaving the pores filled. A fine line on that last one, looks more of a matte finish than high gloss.

[pmike5869]

Thx for the info. Just found out that the fine finish I saw was the ca. don't know how durable that stuff is but it sure looks nice. I have an 8 in wheel with 1750 rpm and use it for bigger jobs but since this is so small the dremmel seems to work fine, just takes a little longer on most jobs. I have a lot of respect for that 8 in wheel. It will jerk things out of your hands and stuff it wherever it wants. They can be very dangerous. A beginner should always have someone who has used one there to let them know when they are doling things that are not safe. I've been using one for 25 yrs and I still have a tremendous respect for it. Mounted the scales and will wait til tomorrow, then some file work and it will be done. Had to order some new 3mm, and 2.5 mm screws, ruined the ones I have taking the thing apart. They were really on there tight. Had to slot them.

[Hukk]

I have a lot of respect for that 8 in wheel. It will jerk things out of your hands and stuff it wherever it wants. They can be very dangerous. A beginner should always have someone who has used one there to let them know when they are doling things that are not safe. I've been using one for 25 yrs and I still have a tremendous respect for it.

The buffer is the most dangerous machine in the shop. I have seen more than ONE picture of a knife sticking in the ceiling. This includes full time professional knifemakers who have posted pictures.

I've had parts yanked out of my hand, a pre assembly polish - never anything seriuos though, just a reminder.