Strong Springs, Too Strong

A place to discuss & share pictures of anything that relates to knives.
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geocash
Posts: 1980
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:25 pm
Location: Southern Appalachian Mountains, outdoors preferably

Re: Strong Springs, Too Strong

Post by geocash »

SSk,

I noticed a lot of people I regard as experts explained different aspects of the problem & possible solutions. Thanks! Fortunately I tried one that was within my lack-of-skill level & worked for me for that knife. I had polished a lot of corrosion off the blades when I acquired it so it wasn't like I was attacking a mint knife. But the bone is about perfect & now that it's useable I feel like I have a new knife. You know a lot more about knives than I do so I bet you have similar success. At least I hope you do.
geocash
Mountain Man Knives

Re: Strong Springs, Too Strong

Post by Mountain Man Knives »

You guys may be surprised how much enjoyment you might find yourselves having learning the skills of knife maintenance and doing these repairs yourself and just for the price of maybe your next pocket knife you could buy yourselves the necessities to get started, here is a checklist for knife repair that anyone looking to get into to Knife Repair and Maintenance would want and need to Possess -

Book: Knife Repair & Restoration by Adrian A. Harris -

https://www.discountcutlery.net/BK239-K ... gKmcfD_BwE $7.00

Somewhere to purchase nickle-silver and brass pins - http://www.knifemaking.com Bag of 10 or 12 - $3.00 + Change

Small Ball Peen Hammer ~ $5.00 at any Harbor Freight

Small Vice - another $5.00 Puchase at any Harbor Freight

Rotorary Tool + Bits for removing the Heads of Pins - Probably another $15.00 at any Harbor Freight -

Pin Spinner or Head Spinners - another item at knifemaking.com - https://www.knifemaking.com/SearchResul ... ad+spinner

TOTAL amount is about - Under $50.00
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Sharpnshinyknives
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Posts: 6312
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2018 2:32 am
Location: Indiana
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Re: Strong Springs, Too Strong

Post by Sharpnshinyknives »

Mountain Man Knives wrote:You guys may be surprised how much enjoyment you might find yourselves having learning the skills of knife maintenance and doing these repairs yourself and just for the price of maybe your next pocket knife you could buy yourselves the necessities to get started, here is a checklist for knife repair that anyone looking to get into to Knife Repair and Maintenance would want and need to Possess -

Book: Knife Repair & Restoration by Adrian A. Harris -

https://www.discountcutlery.net/BK239-K ... gKmcfD_BwE $7.00

Somewhere to purchase nickle-silver and brass pins - http://www.knifemaking.com Bag of 10 or 12 - $3.00 + Change

Small Ball Peen Hammer ~ $5.00 at any Harbor Freight

Small Vice - another $5.00 Puchase at any Harbor Freight

Rotorary Tool + Bits for removing the Heads of Pins - Probably another $15.00 at any Harbor Freight -

Pin Spinner or Head Spinners - another item at knifemaking.com - https://www.knifemaking.com/SearchResul ... ad+spinner

TOTAL amount is about - Under $50.00

Thank you for the information. It’s nice to know that for a little bit of money the average person can do some basic repair and maintenance. I will have to finish configuring a knife repair space in the garage. Got started last year and just thought it was going to be too little to do much, but from this I think it will be worth a little more investment to be able to do these things.
SSk
Mountain Man Knives

Re: Strong Springs, Too Strong

Post by Mountain Man Knives »

Sharpnshinyknives wrote:
Mountain Man Knives wrote:You guys may be surprised how much enjoyment you might find yourselves having learning the skills of knife maintenance and doing these repairs yourself and just for the price of maybe your next pocket knife you could buy yourselves the necessities to get started, here is a checklist for knife repair that anyone looking to get into to Knife Repair and Maintenance would want and need to Possess -

Book: Knife Repair & Restoration by Adrian A. Harris -

https://www.discountcutlery.net/BK239-K ... gKmcfD_BwE $7.00

Somewhere to purchase nickle-silver and brass pins - http://www.knifemaking.com Bag of 10 or 12 - $3.00 + Change

Small Ball Peen Hammer ~ $5.00 at any Harbor Freight

Small Vice - another $5.00 Puchase at any Harbor Freight

Rotorary Tool + Bits for removing the Heads of Pins - Probably another $15.00 at any Harbor Freight -

Pin Spinner or Head Spinners - another item at knifemaking.com - https://www.knifemaking.com/SearchResul ... ad+spinner

TOTAL amount is about - Under $50.00

Thank you for the information. It’s nice to know that for a little bit of money the average person can do some basic repair and maintenance. I will have to finish configuring a knife repair space in the garage. Got started last year and just thought it was going to be too little to do much, but from this I think it will be worth a little more investment to be able to do these things.
SSk

Two more ways to reduce the tension on springs, one way is to place the springs on a steady or small solid surface like an anvil of some sort, placing the spring backside up and strike the back of the spring with a hammer forward of the pin hole this will relieve tension and another way is to drop a piece of old spring or some other small piece of metal that's small enough to fits inside the well just under the kick and by closing the blade down firmly will cause the springs to protrude out past their usual set position exceeding outward slightly bending them relieving the springs tension - " Use Caution " be sure to not use too thick of a piece starting this procedure testing each time for desired pull, too much and you could snap the spring so be Cautious - hope this helps

I learned this from the Book of Adrian A. Harris
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KnifeSlinger#81
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Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2015 8:50 pm
Location: Oklahoma
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Re: Strong Springs, Too Strong

Post by KnifeSlinger#81 »

When a knife has really strong springs this is what I do.

Use the nail nick to firmly hold the blade in place, then pull the handle away from the blade, as opposed to pulling the blade out of the handle. When held and pulled on the end of the handle you get way more leverage than pulling from the blade. Hopefully that makes enough sense.

I have a case from the 60's that I have to open that way. The nicks are shallow and the pull is very strong, it will bend your fingernail if you try and open it all willy nilly, but using the aforementioned method it's no problem.
-Paul T.

WANTED: Shapleigh Diamond Edge branded Schrades in good condition.
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