Pressure Washing

[justold52]

Some time ago I read that some people use vegetable oil on their knives.

Now I am thinking of using Vegetable oil in a Water Pik to clean some of my knives. I think that it would be a mess but, the oil should squirt out the entire bad old gunk in a pocketknife. One thing I am trying to get out is the left over Polishing cream between the scales and bolsters. I also see so many sides of springs (when the blade is not open all the way) looking like black crap on them. I am thinking that the left over polishing cream may cause this.

Here are my Questions.

1. Will the water pik work with Vegetable oil? Or will it mess up the seals and the pump?
2. Will the oil hurt any thing in the knife by using presser to wash it?
3. Will the oil hurt the ink on Schrade Scrimshaw?
4. Will the oil hurt CELLULOID handles?
5. Will the oil hurt Leather handles?
6. Has any one tried such a dumb thing as this pressure washing?

IF so PLEASE tell us.

[knife-nut]

Great idea. I wonder if you could use penetrating oil like WD-40? I think i have a old water-pic under the vanity, I'll have to try out.

[Hukk]

Do not use vegetable oil, it goes rancid

[nmikash]

I would substitute in mineral oil. I would avoid directly spraying the scrimshawed portion of your knife. Mineral oil won't hurt the leather although it may darken it, just wipe the excess off quickly.

Nick

[sunburst]

What about something like Marvel Mystery Oil

[jonet143]

i don't think anything you spray or wipe on will take the stains off the inner spring edge.

[justold52]

Kool all thanks 4 your $00.02.

Hukk ; ok thanks. no roten pee uuuu. I was thinking of a thin safe oil.

knife-nut ; WD-40? ok
knife-nut ; I just bid on one on E-bay. so it may take some time before I can try this. Let us know if WD-40 works or if it makes the seals swell up in the water pik.

sunburst ; Marvel Mystery Oil? ok

nmikash ; mineral oil? ok

jonet143 ; I am trying to prevent the staining or panta on the springs sides. This is the first place on a knife I see get stained. Thats why I thought of the polishing cream left over on it may cause it. Like a long time acid working on the spring sides.
The same thing on Cell handles between the bolsters and scales. Is it the polishing cream left over that may cause them to gas out? I do know the polishing cream has some thing in it to makes my skin burn like acid. On a part of my body I will not tell where. but I iched it and like 10 mins later it burned.

[smiling-knife]

Justold52. Very creative use for a waterpik I think you should video this newfound techinque for all to see . At least let us know how it works out. s-k

[justold52]

Please do NOT bid on this one.

Here is my plan to wash a pocket knife.

Place the knife and pik wand in the tank with some oil. Useing Saran Wrap and a rubber band as a lid to seal it from makeing a BIG mess. Then us a magnet to move the open bladed knife around in the tank when washing it.

[smiling-knife]

Interesting plan justold52 . It sounds like mineral oil jacuzzi If possible, please post before and after pics of the knife. Thanks s-k

[justold52]

" Rats that water pik went for $30.00"

Now looking for the next one to come up on D-bay.

[justold52]

Ok Ok I just won this one for $26.00+ shipping. It looks like the tank is bigger too. Has any one tryed this yet? I got a bottle of Mineral Oil but I think it is to tick for the Water Pik. Got a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil it's nice red. It says ("Avoid frquent and prolonged contact with skin")??? I tested the Marvel oil with a q-tip on scrimshaw and it will eat ink.
I also have a can of WD 40 now, Just waiting for the Water Pik.

Speaking of scrimshaw does any one know what the Schrade finished theirs with. They look like the last step they had a clear sealler on them.
What would be good to seal and coat the Scrimshaw?

[Bomber]

Have you considered one of the firearms power sprays for the same use,they come in large cans od spray and are made for fine metal and wood.Although some say to not spray on wood finishes,I would think they can take out ALL the gunk you refer to.You might want to try it on a chinese knife,lol

[jonet143]

hey ken, just my 2 cents. don't use the pic on anything but very gunked up knives. any solvent(oil) you use is gonna play havoc with most handle materials. the schrade scrimshaw is really embossed with a hot die and filled with ink that is oil soluable and easily washed out. perhaps hot soapy water, toothbrush, toothpicks and pipe cleaners would clean them with less damage.

[Hukk]

I prefer compressed air using an inline dryer and filter. I avoid using any compressed air from the canned stuff that is used for computers. The reason is that practically all of these will leave a residue that will break down into corrosive chemicals later on. While these chemicals are in tiny amounts, probably not enough to affect a new knife, they may cause corroision in an older knife that has seen a lot of use. Computers do not have knife steel, they have gold, plastics, polymers, and some ferric metals. Since an average computer is used only 6-7 years (forget the actual stats) you will not see any effect on the new metal inside. There are only a couple of canned airs that are inert and the names escape right now, but, in general, if you can use it on a camera mirror, it's usually safe for knife steels, especially in the pivot pin/tang area of folders.
So, I stick with air from a compressor and oil, just my nickel

[justold52]

Bomber, firearms power sprays ? I am not sure if that will in time hurt cell handles. I am not trying to sand blast a knife.

jonet143, no solvent Correct John. I am trying to stay away from Water too.

Hukk, chemicals later on may cause corroision. Yes that is what I am trying to do with the water pik. Flush out the polish and left over chemicals on both sides of the springs, and between the bolsters and scales. Then store a super clean knife.

I am sure most of you have used some type of polish on the bottem of a pocket knife. Over the springs and that black gunk stays in it. In time that is the first place I see corroision. Perhaps Hukk has The Best Idea oil and air blow the black gunk out.

Thank you all for your input (camera oil??? hmmhmm)

O well looks like I am going to have a CLEAN mouth now.

[Hukk]

Thank you all for your input (camera oil??? hmmhmm)

O well looks like I am going to have a CLEAN mouth now.

No, compressed air in a can that is OK for working on the mirrors inside a camera. Some of the residuals from compressed air for computers can break down into Hydrofluoric acid for one. A very tiny amount, not likely to do damage to a new knife, but has potential to corrode knife steels on older knives over a period of years. If a knife has had rust or pitting, then I wouldn't use compressed air for computers on my knives. The main chemical that will do this is difluoroethane, like is found in Dust-Off. The break down is available on some of the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets). It is a very small amount, but why take a chance on a prized knife?

[justold52]

I used this pressure washer with WD-40 about 3/4 full.
Keep the knife under the oil and the wand seemed to work the best.
So not to make a big mess.
I clogged up the wand and now needing a way to clean that out.
I think a cloth or screen will do the job to stop that.
I does clean where you can not get.
Gets that black gunk out of the springs and inbetween the bolsters and scales.
This might not be good on Stag or bone or Scrimshaw handles.

[Hammerhead]

I have used an ultra sonic machine (the type used for jewelry) to clean my knives. The mild jewelry cleaner and a distilled H2o rinse have always served me well. Afterwards I would warm the knife with a blowdryer to let it dry completly, then a light spray of WD40 and wrap in "acid free" tissue paper and then a ziplock bag works great for me.

[Hukk]

Actually, ultrasonics work quite well with just a thin oil used instead of water. I had forgotten about that, I used to use them in the electronics industry all the time. I believe those were Branisonic (sp) models.

[Hammerhead]

Hukk: Yes mine works very well.
As for the oil I tried WD40 at first and it did make a very big difference in it. But still after that the knife just did not have the walk and talk like I knew it should. There was something sticky left behind that the oil would not cut. I guessed it could be some food or juice from cutting fruit, maybe cheese, who knows what some of these knives have cut before we got them. Anyway I knew a petroleum based product would not dissolve that sort of gunk.
After the jewelry cleaner the knife "came alive" it snaps like a gator and opens and closes really smooth now.

Hmmmm, maybe now I should put it back in the WD40 bath to get a good deep lube and it would also serve to displace any bit of moisture left behind after the warm air drying.

[jonet143]

hammerhead, it's been my experience that wd40 is a great penetrator and a moisture dispersant. it is not a lubricating oil. it will dry and leave a residue. when i was a gunsmith nearly every gun that was malfunctioning was dirty and wd40 was the main culprit. my 2 cents.

[Hammerhead]

jonet143: Yeah I know WD40 is not a "lube" per se yet it would be okay for archive storage of collector knives which never get any use. (lube was a bad choice of words in my post before)
For EDC knives I use a light machine type oil or even just 3in1 alot of times. I would also never use WD40 on any of my guns.

[jonet143]

i disagree about leaving it on your knives in storage, especially sealed in a bag. maybe i'm over cautious but i've seen what it will do to metal after long term use. it will attract moisture and it will penetrate your natural handles and could affect your cell adversly. there are much better anti corrosion products such as ren wax, etc.