AUS-8 VS Aus-8A VS AUS-6
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- Location: West Virginia
AUS-8 VS Aus-8A VS AUS-6
Anyone have a good idea of which of the above in the AUS series is the better blade material for keeping an edge?
- El Lobo
- Gold Tier
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Here is a steel chart borrowed from A.G. Russell's site.....
http://www.agrussell.com/knife_informat ... index.html
Your question could get some very subjective answers.

However, most people would choose AUS8 or AUS8A (the A is for some minor deviation to standard AUS8) of the ones you mentioned.
There really isn't a "BEST" steel, IMO, just good or poor heat treatment to steels with different characteristics. Matching the steel's characteristics to the user and the job are important.
Bill
http://www.agrussell.com/knife_informat ... index.html
Your question could get some very subjective answers.


However, most people would choose AUS8 or AUS8A (the A is for some minor deviation to standard AUS8) of the ones you mentioned.
There really isn't a "BEST" steel, IMO, just good or poor heat treatment to steels with different characteristics. Matching the steel's characteristics to the user and the job are important.
Bill
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 9:34 pm
- Location: West Virginia
Thank You and one more thing please -- for different jobs
I am still going over all the steels and have to admit am getting somewhat confused.
For a "fighting" knife - AUS or 154CM or SV30 or D2 or something else?
For a "utility" fixed blade for chopping brush - High Carbon -1095 OR something else?
Finally, for superior "delicate and precise" slicing -- Any ideas??
Thanks again.
For a "fighting" knife - AUS or 154CM or SV30 or D2 or something else?
For a "utility" fixed blade for chopping brush - High Carbon -1095 OR something else?
Finally, for superior "delicate and precise" slicing -- Any ideas??
Thanks again.
- El Lobo
- Gold Tier
- Posts: 3036
- Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 4:47 pm
- Location: Arizona, right here in the U.S. of A.
Patriot49,
It can be very confusing, that's for sure...
For any knife that is going to have "Contact"...chopping, fighting, whatever...I'd go with a high carbon tool steel. It can be differentially heat treated (spine or back is soft...edge is hard) so it can withstand shock. (Becker's knives, Swamp Rats, RTAKs, John Greco for inexpensive benchmade knives.)
For a utility, hunter, skinner...Any of the other steels you mentioned are fine. Some are more expensive (SV30), some hold an edge longer but are harder to sharpen (D2), and some are more rust resistant (AUS series).
Delicate slicing is more about the grind...look how thin and flexible most Filet knives are. Get a thin grind with a good point for delicate work.
There are many other factors that affect how a knife performs, for sure, but asking questions and researching the internet is a good start.
JMO.
Bill
EDITED: I feel I may have misused the word "Custom" in it's truest form...I've substituted "benchmade."
It can be very confusing, that's for sure...

For any knife that is going to have "Contact"...chopping, fighting, whatever...I'd go with a high carbon tool steel. It can be differentially heat treated (spine or back is soft...edge is hard) so it can withstand shock. (Becker's knives, Swamp Rats, RTAKs, John Greco for inexpensive benchmade knives.)
For a utility, hunter, skinner...Any of the other steels you mentioned are fine. Some are more expensive (SV30), some hold an edge longer but are harder to sharpen (D2), and some are more rust resistant (AUS series).
Delicate slicing is more about the grind...look how thin and flexible most Filet knives are. Get a thin grind with a good point for delicate work.
There are many other factors that affect how a knife performs, for sure, but asking questions and researching the internet is a good start.

JMO.
Bill
EDITED: I feel I may have misused the word "Custom" in it's truest form...I've substituted "benchmade."