Pin size in folders

[Gowdman]

In an effort to learn more about making folders I have ripped apart a couple of "more than gently used" US made electricians knives. Here's my question: the holes on the blade, bolsters and liners all seem to be different sizes, this also appears to be true with the holes in the backspring, liners and liner lock. Were these pins pressed in at the factory cause it doesn't look like they can be replaced with a couple medium taps with the good old hammer, can anyone help?

[1967redrider]

Maybe one of the knife makers can help?

[Elvis]

Select a pivot pin for the blade that allows the blade to move, but isn't too small to prevent peening into the bolsters. The pin through the rear bolster can be a bit tighter, but doesn't have to be. The center pin is the one I put in last. A small padded vise to align the holes in the frame and the spring(s) helps you to gently drive the center pin in place after one end of it has been ground to the shape of a nail point. Cut the pins off and grind them flat leaving 1/2 of the diameter for that pin sticking up. You may want to leave just a bit more on the blade pivot pin because you'll need to put a feeler gauge slip of about .005-.007" between the blade and liner while peening to allow movement room when you're done. Hit it too hard and the feeler gauge won't come out. You can always go back and give it another gentle tap much easier than loosening one that's too tight.

Re-using old pins usually isn't an option unless you're making a 2 bladed knife into a single bladed knife. While most knife supply stores (Jantz,Texas Knifemaker's Supply and tons of others) now carry other sizes besides the standard 1/16", 3/32", & 1/8" which was all you could get for a long time, you still might find yourself having to turn down a piece of larger stock to get what you need. Good luck and I hope I've helped some.

[Elvis]

As far as removing the old pins, see if you can pry the knife apart then drive them out. If you have to cut them flush with the liner, start driving them out with a small punch at first, then move up to one closer in size to the pin.

[Gowdman]

Thanks a lot, I didn't know the trick with the feeler gauge either.

[Elvis]

I've actually taken a set of feeler gauges and used the Dremel cut-off wheel to put a slot in them to allow them to slide around the pin. You'll probably have to de-burr the cut areas, but it's worth the effort as getting proper spacing all the way around the pin pays off when it's time to test the opening & closing afterwords.

This subject was brought up not too long ago because someone else was having trouble finding the right size pins. If the knife-maker's supply places don't have what you're looking for, quite often hobby shops carry a range of odd size pin stocks. Again, good luck with the project!

[gary]

The blades and spring holes are larger than the liners, liner lock, and bolster holes. The holes for the handle material are close to 1/16".
Most of the liners only have one of these next to the bolster. I have taken 1/16" pin stock (brass rod from Ace Hardware) and 3/32" and turned them down to fit. I found it's easier to just drill the liners with a 1/16" drill bit and counter sink the inside a little to peen the handle material on I also add a second one towards the top of the knife. The two pins for the springs can be turned down from 3/32" stock, or again just drill your liners, liner lock and handle material with a 3/32" bit. The hole in the bolsters I always turn down and never re drill, the nickel silver stock is 3/32". The pictures should enlarge.

[orvet]

http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... 38&t=13147

This link will take you to a tutorial that will show you step by step the process I used to take apart and reassemble a little jackknife.
It also shows the slackner made from a set of feeler gauges. I usually about a 0.10" slackner and then tighten it up with another tap or two.

I get most of my brass pin stock in 1 to 3 foot lengths from my local Ace Hardware store.
If they don't stock it they can order them.

I always caution guys that knife repair and customizing is far more addictive than just collecting knives.

There are other tutorials in the Knife Related Tutorials that may be helpful to you.

Be sure to post pictures of your work!