What is best to oil a knife with before storage?

Turkey Creek Tom · Post by **Turkey Creek Tom** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:40 pm

I have been useing plain mineral oil on knives. Someone told me they sprayed their knives lightly with a spary of WD-40. Another told me he used gun oil. The mineral oil would seem to be free of any chemical.
Look at the picture of the Case copperheads from the Smokey Mountain Kniveworks collection while you are thinking about the best oil.

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:47 pm

I oil the joints with Rem Oil, 3 in 1 Oil, Schrade Oil or Hot Sauce (a fishing reel oil), then I wipe the knife, including the blades, with Ren Wax.

There may be a better way, but that is how I do it.

Dale

BrokenCamillus · Post by **BrokenCamillus** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 9:41 pm

I've seen Ren Wax on a lot of posts, but I don't think I've ever seen it. Is this a shortened version of a name I should know, or does someone make Ren Wax, and where would I find it?

I use 3 in 1 oil so far as I've needed to.

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 9:58 pm

It is Renaissance Wax. You can get it at most knife supply houses like Knife & Gun Supply, Texas Knife Makers Supply and others. It is spendy, the large can is $18.95 from K & G and they have the best price I have found: http://knifeandgun.com/catalog/renaissa ... 534270.htm
I little bit goes a loooooong way & the four oz. will last me for years. I put it on the knives I make to help protect them. It even helps prevent fingerprinting.

Dale

El Lobo · Post by **El Lobo** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:00 pm

RE:

Ren(aissance) Wax...

http://www.picreator.co.uk/

I too, prefer Mineral Oil for everyday lubrication, because it is food safe and potable...even works as a laxative...but, it isn't a rust inhibitor. I think a quick wipe with a Tuf-Cloth is an effective and simple preventative against rust, if you are going to store a knife for an extended period...

http://www.sentrysolutions.com/welcome.shtml

Bill

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:42 pm

I have been using Beeman M-5 metapholic oil, thin, seeps into the tightest places, and dosen't discolor blades (or so I have noted so far). Plus, it doubles for use on my many airguns, the only downside is the stuff stinks!

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:46 pm

Rem oil is thin and seems to penetrate very well & no odor. Hot Sauce is great too, but I don't like the red color on some knives, but no smell.

justold52 · Post by **justold52** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 1:29 am

Renaissance Wax

Originally developed in association with the British Museum for restoration and protection of art treasures, Renaissance Wax is a superb micro-crystalline polish ideal for use in the shop. Renaissance Wax is our all-time favorite coating for reducing friction, preventing rust and corrosion, and putting a shine on anything that needs it. Though it seems fabulously expensive, it lasts so long and works so well that even the most frugal woodworker will find it a genuine value. It is an excellent polishing agent for any wood or metal surface, leaving an extremely hard, thin coating of astonishing durability with excellent resistance to water, alcohol and fingerprints. Used on furniture, Renaissance will be the toughest wax you've ever used. In fact, it's the only wax we know of that's likely to be as durable as the finish underneath, resisting staining and marring in any household or office setting.

We use Renaissance even more often on tools and jigs than on furniture. On tablesaws, bandsaws, jointers, planers, hand planes & plunge router posts it is an unbeatable corrosion inhibitor and friction reducer. It has the wonderful property of polishing metal smoother and smoother with every use--after a few years your jointer beds and plane soles will be as smooth as glass. We apply Renaissance with a fine Scotch-Brite pad or 4/0 steel wood, putting it on as thinly as possible and buffing it vigorously with a soft cloth after a very short wait. It takes two or three coats to do a thorough job the first time out, but single coats thereafter will maintain a nearly perfect surface.

check out our AAPK buy/sell Visit I-Like-Knives

El Lobo · Post by **El Lobo** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:33 am

Ah, Ken...

I already posted the website, with that information. Advertising for a product should include, the thought process that it is designed to sell the product. JMO.

Bill

jonet143 · Post by **jonet143** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:05 am

i use a drop of inox on the joints and wipe off any excess and then ren. wax with bare fingers. i hope that's not a perversion!

justold52 · Post by **justold52** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:53 am

El Lobo ; As most of the time you are right again Bill.

jonet143 ; (i hope that's not a perversion!) What you do with your fingers is up to you. But I fell if you really do that you are sporting band-ads CO.

remington collector · Tue Oct 31, 2006 12:07 pm

I'm also like Rem-oil. It just seems natural.

El Lobo · Post by **El Lobo** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 2:46 pm

That was good Remington collector...

Ken, please tell my wife that...as I could use some points.

Lots of good methods, lots of quality products. No matter what method or product we use, just keep those babies in good shape.

Al Buck used to use automatic transmission fluid as a lubricant, and for honing the blades on stones. But now the Buck folks tout White Lightning, a wax lubricant, and Buck honing oil.

It used to be so much easier. Sigh.

Bill

All About Pocket Knives

What is best to oil a knife with before storage?

What is best to oil a knife with before storage?

A question to compliment the topic