R-3 vs R3-W in Big Game

[josephashaw]

I haven't ever seen either version in person, but am trying to decide between purchasing a R-3 or a R3-W in the Big Game knife. I appreciate any thoughts on this. The pictures that I am attaching are from the WEB and the result of searching for images. I did not take these pictures - Joseph Shaw

Remigton R3-W.jpg (42.59 KiB) Viewed 1174 times

Remington R-3.jpg (5.49 KiB) Viewed 1174 times

[Mumbleypeg]

I’m no expert but from your pictures looks to me like the R3-W has smooth wood covers. The R3 looks like probably jigged Delrin. The rest appears the same? Bottom line is, what do YOU like.

Ken

[josephashaw]

Yes...that is correct. They are the same knife, except that the wood version did not come with the sharpening rod....and is actually brand new. The Delrin version is used, but just like new. I appreciate any input.....I am new to knife collecting. I prefer the looks of the wood, but it is quite a bit more expensive than the Delrin.
- Joseph Shaw

[josephashaw]

I appreciate any thoughts about the collectability of the R3 Big Game knife in general, whether wood or Delrin? I know that the majority of these decisions comes down to personal preference, but I am undecided and appreciate any thoughts from more knowledgeable individuals. - Joseph Shaw

[Lars0729]

Ken nailed it when he stated in all caps...what do YOU like. Defining what you like is always the first step. If you are rather new to collecting knives, then fasten your seatbelt, because you will have to make these kinds of choices and decisions often if you plan on growing your collection.

When you feel like a kid in a candy store and you like everything in front of you, then it's time to quantify what you like best and rank them in priority.

Start off by answering some simple questions that contain no wrong answers, but instead lead you to discovery....
- When I find a knife style I like, what is my preferred handle/scale material? When more than one preference choice is available, how do I rank them?
(Natural materials / Jig Bone / Delrin / G-10, etc..)
- What elements of this transaction do I value most and am willing to pay for? (Materials, Blade steel, age, shipping (Free/Standard/Expedited), little extras like sheath or no sheath, leather case/canvas case, with or W/O sharpening rod, etc.
- What value do I place with non-tangibles (Free shipping vs lower price but with shipping, Factory second vs. full warranty, etc).
- What value do I place on style / maker? (Case Trapper vs Rough Ryder trapper, Buck 110 vs Klein Sportsman, etc.)
- When buying via internet - what are the various reviews of the knife, the brand, and the seller (particularly if through Ebay)?

If you are like me with a set amount of cash I can play with for such things, then it really boils down to "what's the most I can get for the money spent" followed by "and will I be happy with it?".

Since you are asking our opinon to help you make an informed decision as to which knife to purcahse, I have asked myself these very questions regarding the knives you presented. Based solely on the photos and information you provided, I'm down for the R3-W. Why? Because I like wood more than jigged Delrin and an added sharpening rod isn't a value-add to me over the wood. Give me more to consider and my answer might change...but it will have to impact the cost by a lot because i will always choose a natual material over Delrin/G-10/plastic when given the option.

It's a bit of a ramble, but I hope this helps....

[josephashaw]

Yes, that helps a lot. I do realize that it comes down to what I want. But, I appreciate your opinion. I am still considering it and pondering it.
Joseph Shaw
'

Since you are asking our opinon to help you make an informed decision as to which knife to purcahse, I have asked myself these very questions regarding the knives you presented. Based solely on the photos and information you provided, I'm down for the R3-W. Why? Because I like wood more than jigged Delrin and an added sharpening rod isn't a value-add to me over the wood. Give me more to consider and my answer might change...but it will have to impact the cost by a lot because i will always choose a natual material over Delrin/G-10/plastic when given the option.

It's a bit of a ramble, but I hope this helps....

[Mumbleypeg]

If you are looking for help resisting buying one or both, you've come to the wrong place. This place is filled with enablers. We are all glad to help you spend your money!

Ken

[josephashaw]

LOL....I understand. I appreciate the input above. I am still working on what I am collecting. It is a fun hobby and I enjoy having something to look for. My problem is that I get sidetracked with other series and knives that aren't in my lane right now. I am still developing a disciplined approach to this.
Thanks again.
Joseph Shaw

If you are looking for help resisting buying one or both, you've come to the wrong place. This place is filled with enablers. We are all glad to help you spend your money!

Ken

[Modern Slip Joints]

I hope you are aware these were made by Camillus. I own an R-3. The R-3W is much less common. I like wood better and do not value the pocket size honing rod much. That said, my suggestion is wait and buy a similar size knife with a cross cut saw. To understand what I mean by a cross cut saw look at the saws in Victoronix or Wenger Swiss Army Knives. The so called saw in R-3s barely works as a wood saw. I value a good cutting saw more than blade locks. Camillus did make the same size double staggered backlock knife with their own brand and Boy Scout symbols on it. They were sold through the Boy Scouts. They cost more.

For a less expensive knife Wenger sold the same size knife with a cross cut saw. Only its knife blade locks. Victorinox currently sells the same size knife with a locking master blade and cross cut saw. I like Wenger's clip point master blade better than Victorinox's spear master blade. However, Camillus' blades hold an edge longer. SMKW sold Chinese made Schrade slip joint (no locks) Folding Hunters with cross cut saws for $20 or less. Their leather pouch was worth half of their price. There are expensive stag handled double lockback German Boker knives with Cross cut saws and good 440C clip point blades. The smartest decision is to buy them all over time. That's less expensive than hanging out in any of the businesses in town.

[josephashaw]

Yes, I was aware. In fact, the reason that I became interested in Remington knives was because I have been collecting Camillus knives and read that they had made Remingtons from 1982 until 2007, when Camillus filed for bankruptcy. I have been collecting the Yello-Jaket Series and the Carbon Series of Camillus. I also really like their #69 Deluxe Stockman knife, and have bought a couple of older 69s that I haven't received yet.

Do you know whether Remington made any other versions of the double blade lock back system like the R3 that has wooden scales? I have ordered a R3-W but have just done so and have not received it yet (I am really hoping that it is in the condition that has been described by the seller as the pictures were a little difficult to tell, but I have been assured that it is in new condition, having been NOS and never removed from the box except to take pictures of it for the ad selling it). I would be interested in other wooden handled versions of this double lock-back system. Haven't found a Camillus 716-W yet either, but only 716S and 716Y. I have decided that I much prefer the wood handled versions. Thanks for any thoughts on this subject! - Joseph Shaw

I hope you are aware these were made by Camillus. I own an R-3. The R-3W is much less common. I like wood better and do not value the pocket size honing rod much. That said, my suggestion is wait and buy a similar size knife with a cross cut saw.

[OLDE CUTLER]

FYI, there was another version of the R3 called the Grizzly which as this 1996 ad shows had Kraton scales. I have an R3 which has Delrin and I always thought that it would be very slippery when wet. As to the saw comparisons between the R3 and a Wenger, the R3 teeth would indeed seem to be so much finer that they would hopelessly clog when sawing wood. They were no doubt designed for sawing bone being on a knife with a gut hook and a skinner type blade. The Wenger shown is a model with a locking blade that Buck sold under their name in the US at one time. Note comparisons between teeth on the saws.

[josephashaw]

That is interesting. I just read today that Camillus made a series called Promaster Expedition, that somewhat resembles the the blades on the Bucks in your pictures.

Note comparisons between teeth on the saws.

[Mumbleypeg]

That is interesting. I just read today that Camillus made a series called Promaster Expedition, that somewhat resembles the the blades on the Bucks in your pictures.

Note comparisons between teeth on the saws.

Camillus made a lot of knives for Buck and others. A lot of info about the Camillus-made Bucks can be found by going to the Buck Collectors forum here and put “Camillus” in the “search this topic” box. Like this post https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kn ... 31#p700831

Ken

[josephashaw]

I have so much to learn!

[/quote]

Camillus made a lot of knives for Buck and others. A lot of info about the Camillus-made Bucks can be found by going to the Buck Collectors forum here and put “Camillus” in the “search this topic” box. Like this post https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kn ... 31#p700831

Ken
[/quote]

[Modern Slip Joints]

The fineness of the teeth on the pile (back) side bpttom edge of a R-3 saw is not primarily what makes the R-3 saw cut slowly. To cut a slot wide enough for the blade to pass through the R-3 saw has to remove material like a wood rasp. It was not done to make a fine tooth saw for bone. It was simply less expensive to create saw teeth with a single pass of the milling cutter. In crontrast on a cross cut saw running the cutter across the saw twice at cross angles creates a row of teeth along both sides of the saw that cut a slot as wide as the blade. It's the difference between sawing through a board and rasping through one. Those of you who own both can take a 1X4 or whatever scrap you've got to your vise and saw off a length with both types of saws to experience the difference.

Not all "jigged" delrin R-3s came with a honing rod. Mine did not.

I would rather have a longer length of saw teeth than have my saw include a gut hook or bottle opener. All pocket knife saws are much shorter than any saw you'd buy for your shop without sacraficing saw teeth for do dads. A better way to get both a cross cut saw and a gut hook is to buy a Case Changer.

By the way, the Wenger made for Buck is an odd duck. Buck collectors drive its price up higher than the more numerous ones with Wenger's name on them.

[josephashaw]

Thats Interesting. Honestly, the saw on this knife will never get used. I want to eventually obain every version of the double lock blade system tbat was pattened by Camillus. This Remington is on the list. i went with the wood scales.

Thanks!
Joseph Shaw

The fineness of the teeth on the pile (back) side bpttom edge of a R-3 saw is not primarily what makes the R-3 saw cut slowly. To cut a slot wide enough for the blade to pass through the R-3 saw has to remove material like a wood rasp. It was not done to make a fine tooth saw for bone. It was simply less expensive to create saw teeth with a single pass of the milling cutter. In crontrast on a cross cut saw running the cutter across the saw twice at cross angles creates a row of teeth along both sides of the saw that cut a slot as wide as the blade. It's the difference between sawing through a board and rasping through one. Those of you who own both can take a 1X4 or whatever scrap you've got to your vise and saw off a length with both types of saws to experience the difference.

Not all "jigged" delrin R-3s came with a honing rod. Mine did not.

I would rather have a longer length of saw teeth than have my saw include a gut hook or bottle opener. All pocket knife saws are much shorter than any saw you'd buy for your shop without sacraficing saw teeth for do dads. A better way to get both a cross cut saw and a gut hook is to buy a Case Changer.

By the way, the Wenger made for Buck is an odd duck. Buck collectors drive its price up higher than the more numerous ones with Wenger's name on them.

[Modern Slip Joints]

[...] I want to eventually obain every version of the double lock blade system tbat was pattened by Camillus. [...]

There is a much smaller pattern with the staggered lock releases. A table holder at the closest gun show has has been asking $50 for one branded Camillus for about a year. It has two knife blades and jigged delrin sides. It's under 4" closed, maybe 3.5"? It's likely there are other variations on that frame.