Advice Needed - Reassembling Camillus Scout

[Myron]

Hello,

I am looking for tips from more experienced restorers. I have an old Camillus scout with bolsters and removable bail that I decided to restore. The scales were in decent shape, but the tools were all rusty and trashed. I got the donor tools, springs, and spacers from an identical knife with ruined shrinky-dink scales. I don't think the donor knife was ever used or carried -- the blade and implements are that nice looking.

I have the knife re-assembled, but I need to finish off the pins. I've built a few alox SAKs, where the pin finishing is visible and there are no bolsters to worry about, but I've never done this to a bolstered knife. A few questions for a more experienced builder:

How close to the surface of the bolster should I trim the end pins? My gut tells me to trim them very close, but I don't want to trim them too close and not have enough material to expand in the hole.

I am used to using a 6 oz ball peen hammer for peening a SAK back together. Is there a better tool to use for this bolstered Camillus?

Other than just going by feel and tool snap, is there a way to judge when the pins are just right?

If you have any other tips, I'm all ears! In the meantime, here are some pictures. The old blade can be seen in the background.

Thanks,

Myron

[just bob]

Watch this Dale says pin length is half of thickness. Many good tips here.


viewtopic.php?t=13147

[herbva]

Hi. I cut the pins off to leave an amount roughly equal to the thickness of the pins. But, before I start peening, I file a little bit off each pin where they have been cut off, so that the end is perfectly flat. You can do the peening by feel, but I prefer to insert a thin feeler gauge on each side of the blade tang. (Some knife mechanics call these "slackeners"). When you are peening take your time and go around in a circle. Don't use too heavy of a hammer or hit too hard or you will bend the pin which will cause other problems. There are a number of very good videos available here which cover the peening process. Good luck!

[Myron]

Thanks guys! These are great tips. I've ordered a modeling hammer and will look around for a feeler gauge too.

Appreciate the help!

Myron

[glennbad]

All good tips already! I use basically no more than a 4oz. hammer for most operations.

Good luck!

[Reverand]

I no longer use a slackener, as I have done it enough to peen by "feel" now, but when I did I found that .007" is about right. Before I found feeler gauges, I removed the blades from a disposable razor. Mine were about .004", so two of them worked really well for me.

[OLDE CUTLER]

Thanks guys! These are great tips. I've ordered a modeling hammer and will look around for a feeler gauge too.

Appreciate the help!

Myron

After you get your feeler gauges, to make them into slackers cut or notch the ends to fit around the pins.

[Myron]

Thanks guys! I am sure I have a couple old sets of feeler gauges, left over from my wrenching days and having to set point gap on a distributor. I really appreciate all this advice, and will be sure and post pictures of my finished work when it's all done.

Thank you!

Myron