Question for the knife mechanics
- Jeffinn
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Question for the knife mechanics
When you’re replacing the handles on a knife, do you pin the scale to the liner and then sand/grind it to fit? Or do you shape it first and then attach it?
I’m trying to figure out ways to minimize sanding/grinding marks on the bolsters when I install new handles. I usually pin my scales to the liner, band saw to the approximate shape then power sand and hand sand to get the handles shaped the way I need them. I’ve tried using masking tape and duct tape on the bolsters to protect them but it seems like there should be a better way.
Just curious what the rest of you are doing.
Thanks!
I’m trying to figure out ways to minimize sanding/grinding marks on the bolsters when I install new handles. I usually pin my scales to the liner, band saw to the approximate shape then power sand and hand sand to get the handles shaped the way I need them. I’ve tried using masking tape and duct tape on the bolsters to protect them but it seems like there should be a better way.
Just curious what the rest of you are doing.
Thanks!
Hey … it’s a pocketknife for gosh sakes. I’m not selling the Mona Lisa….Bullitt4001
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- glennbad
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Re: Question for the knife mechanics
I glue mine and then haft everything down after assembly. I know a lot of custom makers pre-shape their covers.
Don't know what's right or wrong, but there are pros and cons to doing it either way.
Don't know what's right or wrong, but there are pros and cons to doing it either way.
- muskrat man
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Re: Question for the knife mechanics
i assemble everything and grind/sand/polish everything as one unit.
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- orvet
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Re: Question for the knife mechanics
I usually assemble the handles; liner/bolster assembly and handle material first. I glue the handle, drill the pin holes, haft the handle to the bolster, polish the handle and then pin the handles. That way I don't grind down the pins when hafting, and can leave the pins domed .
This method comes from doing so many Swinden knives where the handle assembly (liner, bolster & handle) are one piece when you remove the rocker pin .
If you are reassembling as a Swinden knife it is easier to finish the handles then add them and click them into place prefinished. Than just add the rocker pin and do a final polish.
It isn't as easy with through pin construction but by now it is a habit for me.
This method comes from doing so many Swinden knives where the handle assembly (liner, bolster & handle) are one piece when you remove the rocker pin .
If you are reassembling as a Swinden knife it is easier to finish the handles then add them and click them into place prefinished. Than just add the rocker pin and do a final polish.
It isn't as easy with through pin construction but by now it is a habit for me.
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- Jeffinn
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Re: Question for the knife mechanics
What are you folks using to glue bone handles to the liners? I’ve tried that previously and didn’t having a lot of luck. I believe I was using some sort of structural epoxy (I’ll have to look downstairs and see what it was). It didn’t seem like the bone was sticking very well to the liners.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Hey … it’s a pocketknife for gosh sakes. I’m not selling the Mona Lisa….Bullitt4001
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- muskrat man
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Re: Question for the knife mechanics
loctite superglue, pins do the actual holding. I mostly rely on the glue to hold things in place while I drill the handles. Clean and roughened surfaces help also most bone handles I have encountered are dyed with oil base (get them a little warm while flattening them out and watch the oil cook out of them) so plenty of degreasing is neccesary. But I pin all my handles nowadays anyway so adhesion isn't super critical IMO.Jeffinn wrote:What are you folks using to glue bone handles to the liners? I’ve tried that previously and didn’t having a lot of luck. I believe I was using some sort of structural epoxy (I’ll have to look downstairs and see what it was). It didn’t seem like the bone was sticking very well to the liners.
Thanks.
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- Jeffinn
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Re: Question for the knife mechanics
Good stuff!
Thanks everyone, I appreciate the advice!
Thanks everyone, I appreciate the advice!
Hey … it’s a pocketknife for gosh sakes. I’m not selling the Mona Lisa….Bullitt4001
https://www.jfinamoreknives.com
http://www.secondlifeknives.com
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- orvet
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Re: Question for the knife mechanics
Kaleb is right, the adhesive seals the back of the bone to keep moisture out. The oil in the bone is a problem for the adhesives so I always prep both surfaces by cleaning with 99% isopropyl alcohol.
The epoxy I use I get from Hobby Lobby, or from eBay. I use the 5 minute epoxy. It is usually branded Bob Smith Industries.
The epoxy I use I get from Hobby Lobby, or from eBay. I use the 5 minute epoxy. It is usually branded Bob Smith Industries.
Dale
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- Jeffinn
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Re: Question for the knife mechanics
Thanks Dale!orvet wrote:Kaleb is right, the adhesive seals the back of the bone to keep moisture out. The oil in the bone is a problem for the adhesives so I always prep both surfaces by cleaning with 99% isopropyl alcohol.
The epoxy I use I get from Hobby Lobby, or from eBay. I use the 5 minute epoxy. It is usually branded Bob Smith Industries.
It seems like you may have recommended that glue to me before (my memory isn’t very good). I’ll take a look and see if I have some. I know I have three or four different super glues and a couple of different epoxies so I should have something that’ll work.
As always, I appreciate all the advice that you guys freely share with us!
Hey … it’s a pocketknife for gosh sakes. I’m not selling the Mona Lisa….Bullitt4001
https://www.jfinamoreknives.com
http://www.secondlifeknives.com
https://www.jfinamoreknives.com
http://www.secondlifeknives.com