309 Blade Adjustment?

[Oldwolf]

I have an issue when I open the longer clip point blade on my Buck 309, while keeping the shorter drop point blade closed.
The trouble is that I can catch my finger on the point of the drop point, because when closed, the point is slightly above the handle. If I am not careful, I could easily puncture my thumb. It seems like some judicious filing would fix this, or would you recommend that I send it off to Buck for adjustment?

I think relieving the point of the "Kick" would fix the problem.

[OLDE CUTLER]

Sending to Buck would be your best bet. I have one in their shop now that I hope to get back soon. Mine is a pre 1986 313 muskrat that is missing the shield on the handle. Even though it is an out of production model, they told me they would have a shield from a junk knife to replace it with. The best bet with Buck is to call their toll free service number and talk to their people about exactly what you want done. Then print out the form for service work noting that you have already talked with them and send it in. You pay shipping one way and they take care of the rest unless it is an abuse/breakage issue. If you don't have the expertise or tools to do it yourself, then send it in. Be aware that they will have your knife for several weeks. What you are talking about is called "adjusting the kick".

[tallguy606]

Buck services is first class. I sent a broken-tipped 112 folder to them recently. Came back after a few weeks, new blade, polished, looked like new. Cost me $3 to send it, $10 for their work (including return postage).

[Oldwolf]

Sending to Buck would be your best bet. I have one in their shop now that I hope to get back soon. Mine is a pre 1986 313 muskrat that is missing the shield on the handle. Even though it is an out of production model, they told me they would have a shield from a junk knife to replace it with. The best bet with Buck is to call their toll free service number and talk to their people about exactly what you want done. Then print out the form for service work noting that you have already talked with them and send it in. You pay shipping one way and they take care of the rest unless it is an abuse/breakage issue. If you don't have the expertise or tools to do it yourself, then send it in. Be aware that they will have your knife for several weeks. What you are talking about is called "adjusting the kick".

Good advice, Olde Cutler. Thanks.
Although I hate to part with it, is sounds to be the best option.
"Adjusting the Kick",,,I like that.

[treefarmer]

Not disagreeing with any of the above proper suggestions but if it's just a little bit high or "proud", you can file the kick a little at a time and drop the point of that blade below the frame. Just be careful not to drop it too much and loose the function of the nail nick. If that happens, then you can carefully grind an easy open notch to access the nick. Some new knives come with this feature on some blades, an example is the Case 6275.
That will save you from paying shipping and being separated from your knife.
Treefarmer

[ea42]

I agree with Treefarmer, just file the kick down. Doesn't take much to get that point below the liners.

Eric

[btrwtr]

I agree that taking the kick down should be an easy fix. Just take it slow and check it often enough to make sure you don't overdo it.

[Oldwolf]

Well, I've got the equipment to do it.
Also, have the Mechanical aptitude, from long years of amateur car repair, and gunsmithing, etc.
I may try this on my own. It doesn't look like that big of a deal.
I noticed the drop point kick has already been adjusted, from the factory I presume. They left the grounded surface a bit rough imo.

[Oldwolf]

Success.
I used my fathers old Carborundum No. 57 Sharpening Stone to very gradually remove the excess Kick.
I placed the heavy stone on my workbench, and then took slow horizontal draws on the Kick down the stone while protecting the other knife surfaces.
4 draws on the stone, check, 4 draws, check, etc.
Finally, the drop point would not jamb my thumb, and there still is good clearance for the Nail Mark.
Then, used #600 paper to smooth the newly reshaped Kick surface. Also dressed the Clip Point Kick a bit since it was left rough.

I appreciate all of your advice.
Soon, I hope my "Vintage" Normark Tri-Hone will be here, and I'm sure I'll have more questions about that.

[300Bucks]

Sorry I am getting here late. FIRST...ALWAYS. For any folder carried in pocket or used without ever being washed out well , Check for lint or crud in the blade well under the blade kick. Even just carrying it in jeans pockets, time and time again, I have seen folders with this problem be cured with a little toothpick digging and a good soap and water washing. Follow that with a hair dryer and some oil. A spray lube is good to displace the moisture. Then if not cured go to the more "I can't go back " methods. 300Bucks

It sounds like you honed correctly.....

[Oldwolf]

300Bucks,
Yes, I very good point.
I did, however, clean the knife thoroughly prior and did find a little lint buildup.
In my case, after cleaning the condition still existed.