Pressbutton Woes

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muskrat man
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Pressbutton Woes

Post by muskrat man »

Thought I'd post some pictures of a sterling silver handled press button I worked on yesterday. This had about all the problems one of these can have except a broken kickspring.

The knife, a Press Button Knife company sterling silver handled double button switchblade made around (according to the inscription) 1916. It's about 3 3/8" long as was designed by George Schrade. PBKCo. Was his first venture into automatic knives I believe.
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The biggest problem was the broken backspacer. This was probably caused by someone exterting a lot of force trying to cut something they shouldn't have. Many people mislabel this part as the backspring. It has no spring action at all. It's sole purpose is to stop the blade in the open position and keep the liners spaced evenly apart.
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The pen blade had no button tension at all. Upon disassembly it was discovered that the combination sear/button spring had come unpinned
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The master blade's button operated fine but the blade would no lock open or closed. I determined before disassembly the problem could be due to either 1. plugged sear holes or 2. a sheared sear. Upond disassembly I noted it was the latter, a sheared sear pin.
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Other problems included weak firing blades that would barely open, smashed and dented handles,and the master blade peeked.

After a few hours at the bench it was operating just like new.
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I do not recommend working on vintage schrade designed automatics. They are extremely difficult to work on (especially PBKCo.) and are not for the faint of heart, beginner or amateur. MANY more things will go wrong then can go right, and there is no sense in tearing it up any more trying to fix it if you don't understand their mechanics. Schrade designed automatics are one of my specialties and I have learned what I know solely through trial and error on my own knives until I developed a good understanding of what made them tick. I have lots of practice at working on them. Probably the easiest and most simple design to work on is the pullball knife, they are the exception. All of George's other designed are in a sense built from the outside in. The knife must be assembled before the handles can be installed and if you need to get at the blade or backspacer you'll be disassembling the ENTIRE knife down to the last pin. There are no shortcuts. On most 5" single blade models there are in excess of 18 pins and rivets that hold the knife together and most were pressed in and very difficult to remove without damaging the knife. I'm not trying to blow my own trumpet. It's just that the only thing I hate about my job is having to fix the mistakes of the uninformed, that could have been prevented. You've been warned! :D
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Miller Bro's
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Re: Pressbutton Woes

Post by Miller Bro's »

Nice work ::tu::

I have a PB folding hunter that will not open :x

The kick spring is not broken, do you know what the problem with it is?
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Re: Pressbutton Woes

Post by muskrat man »

the kickspring on those were bad about bending, it may not have the correct pitch to throw the blade any more. is the blade loose or very tight?
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Re: Pressbutton Woes

Post by Joe Dirt »

Great article, MM!

Knowledge gained through experience = Wisdom.

I have a couple Prestos and a double button cell handle with broken springs.
Am I in for an experience with repairing this design as compared to a "normal" (eg; lever lock, stiletto) design??

Thanks,........ Joe
I've got a camouflage knife, but I can't find it.......

..... cardboard addicted.....

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Miller Bro's
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Re: Pressbutton Woes

Post by Miller Bro's »

The blade feels loose, if you push down you can feel the spring tension of the kick spring.

No matter what you do pressing the button the blade will not release from the locked position. I have owned the knife for 10 years and the blade has never been opened :shock: :lol:
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Re: Pressbutton Woes

Post by muskrat man »

Miller Bro`s wrote:The blade feels loose, if you push down you can feel the spring tension of the kick spring.

No matter what you do pressing the button the blade will not release from the locked position. I have owned the knife for 10 years and the blade has never been opened :shock: :lol:
sear pin is sheared causing it to remain locked in the closed position, see the 4th pic down in my first post.

Joe, you could always pay me to do it (LOL) but if you have a source for replacement springs it's about a 10 minute job per knife. you only need to remove 1 pin to remove the spring. Usually they are 1/16" diameter nickel, sometimes brass.
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