Hi there folks. James here from Paris, ON, Canada. I'm completely new to carving, and I'm fairly recent to knife collecting. I'm waiting on my first Case and first GEC. I have mostly Spydercos, SOG, SAKS, Ka-bar and the like. Outdoorsy stuff mostly. I have a huge soft spot for nostalgia and classic things in all regards. This explains my new obsession with Case and GEC.
I do want to get into whittling and carving and I want to know if I should definitely buy Case CV rather than SS. My first Case on the way is a Canoe with SS. I also want a Swayback Jack, Seahorse Whittler, Large Congress, Large/Medium Stockman, Peanut, Whittler, and a couple more that wouldn't suite whittling at all.
Any advise would be more than welcome.
I understand that to really get carving I would be well advise to buy carving specific knives, which I may in time, but I'm starting my Case collection and would like advice to that effect.
Thanks all.
Great forum!
James
Newbee questions
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TM
- Posts: 496
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- Location: Texas
Re: Newbee questions
Hi James, welcome to AAPK. I'd say get yourself a knife between 3 to 4 inches (closed) that has at least 2 blades; large clip and a small pen are a pretty good combo 
I like to use barlows sometimes when I whittle. The canoe you just bought will work good too!
A good stainless will work just fine, although CV seems to sharpen up a little easier. Keeping your blades sharp is really the key. I think GEC's 440C stainless is great.
Show us some of your knives and carvings when you get a chance.
I like to use barlows sometimes when I whittle. The canoe you just bought will work good too!A good stainless will work just fine, although CV seems to sharpen up a little easier. Keeping your blades sharp is really the key. I think GEC's 440C stainless is great.
Show us some of your knives and carvings when you get a chance.
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mrwatch
- Posts: 1463
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- Location: michigan
Re: Newbee questions
Look at the FLEX CUT brand of carving knives and tools. They are hard to beat. Also the Murphy knife with interchangeable blades are very good for beginers.
Bob
Bob
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TM
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- Location: Texas
Re: Newbee questions
yup - I like Flexcut too. When you're ready to get down to business, a good carving knife and some gouges can't be beat 
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justold52
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- Location: Bloomington, ILL the sick state
Re: Newbee questions
Tm made a big point. Keeping your blades sharp is really the key.
Learn how and practice, practice, practice, and then use a leather wheel (make one if you have to). My in-law carves and buys carving tools and sharppens them only with his home made leather wheel.
Learn how and practice, practice, practice, and then use a leather wheel (make one if you have to). My in-law carves and buys carving tools and sharppens them only with his home made leather wheel.
A sign In a Chinese Pet Store: 'Buy one dog, get one flea.'
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CL01
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:38 am
- Location: S. Cal.
Re: Newbee questions
Keeping the blade sharp & a comfortable handle is key, IMHO. I've just gotten into whittling recently & liked the idea of using slippies for it. However, I quickly found there's some issues.
Others might disagree, but I've found a Wharncliffe blade shape (Or Coping/Sheepsfoot) to be ideal. A Congress with a good carbon blade works great (Mine has 2 Sheepsfoot, a Coping, & a Pen blade).
It doesn't fit in with pocket knives, but I picked up a custom Wharncliffe Utility knife that's worked out great. It has a 2 5/8" 1095 blade with bocote scales & has worked out great.
I've used Cases with both their Tru-Sharp & CV steel & they work fine, but don't stay sharp terribly long. Queen's D2 works great, but you have to re-profile & sharpen it, but once it's done, they hold their edge for quite some time.
Others might disagree, but I've found a Wharncliffe blade shape (Or Coping/Sheepsfoot) to be ideal. A Congress with a good carbon blade works great (Mine has 2 Sheepsfoot, a Coping, & a Pen blade).
It doesn't fit in with pocket knives, but I picked up a custom Wharncliffe Utility knife that's worked out great. It has a 2 5/8" 1095 blade with bocote scales & has worked out great.
I've used Cases with both their Tru-Sharp & CV steel & they work fine, but don't stay sharp terribly long. Queen's D2 works great, but you have to re-profile & sharpen it, but once it's done, they hold their edge for quite some time.
"Use human means as if there are no divine ones, & divine means as though there are no human ones." Baltasar Gracian
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carvin don
- Bronze Tier
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- Location: Virginia
Re: Newbee questions
Howdy James,
I'm not sure I have much to add, the good folks here have already given you some great advice. If you buy carbon or stainless, use what is most comfortable/affordable to you, and above all, know how to sharpen and maintain your edge, no matter what tool you are using. Nothing will discourage a new carver more than trying to carve with dull tools. If possible, join a carving club in your area, hands on experience with other carvers is invaluable! Keep 'em sharp and let the chips fly
by the way, is there any particular area of carving you are interested in? i.e. chip carving, relief carving, caricature carving, realistic carving etc...
I'm not sure I have much to add, the good folks here have already given you some great advice. If you buy carbon or stainless, use what is most comfortable/affordable to you, and above all, know how to sharpen and maintain your edge, no matter what tool you are using. Nothing will discourage a new carver more than trying to carve with dull tools. If possible, join a carving club in your area, hands on experience with other carvers is invaluable! Keep 'em sharp and let the chips fly
by the way, is there any particular area of carving you are interested in? i.e. chip carving, relief carving, caricature carving, realistic carving etc...
Don