First of all, I am not a knife collector, so please be gentle.
I recently aquired a Pre 1940 Case Circle C 5254 White Stag Handle Trapper that is in near mint conditon. It has never been pocket carried or sharpened. The only issue it seems to have are a few very minor scratches on one blade and a small burr on the cutting edge of one blade (it is nearly impossible to see but it is there.)
I am going to sell this item on eBay but first would like to get some feed back from other knife collectors and experts. What should I start this knife at and would I be better off trying to sell it though another channel.
Below are some pictures. Thank you in advance for your help!
Hello;
Why dont you give us a close up of the tang mark on shield side of master clip blade. I don't know much about case knives but why would there be a stamp on back side of great western spey, How about some responses from some of you case collectors.
W.B.
I think you need to look closer at your knife on all sides and go to the Case site and see what you have done wrong other than the raised shield. Nice try BTW.
The scratches on the blades are often called "blade rub"...indicating either less than ideally crinked/fitted original blades, or possibly something is not correct about the knife.
The "burr" as you termed it, looks like a flat spot where the steel folds over when the knife closes and overtravel causes it to hit the backspring. This again is usually caused by less than ideal fit and finish. Since the blade already has a pronounced kick at the base of the tang, and the clip blade already sits very low in the frame, I don't believe you can fix that without skilled hands and the proper tools...and maybe not at all.
Certain things about this knife would certainly cause me pause as far as purchasing it. I'm not however, a Case, or antique knife expert. I believe there are several here who frequent these forums.
j5109 wrote:thimasgeek you better take a closer look at the tang stamp & sheild
I am going to take some more detailed pictures this afternoon. To be honest, I know very little about knives so any thoughts you may have would be helpful.
Mossdancer wrote:Hello;
Why dont you give us a close up of the tang mark on shield side of master clip blade. I don't know much about case knives but why would there be a stamp on back side of great western spey, How about some responses from some of you case collectors.
W.B.
I will be posting more pics later today which will be taken with a tripod for less blurryness.
Not sure what you mean about "great western spey". Can you give me more thoughts there?
BTW, there are no other tang marks other than those pictured.
OSG wrote:I think you need to look closer at your knife on all sides and go to the Case site and see what you have done wrong other than the raised shield. Nice try BTW.
OSG,
Can you please expand on your comment here. What is a raised shield. Not sure what the "Nice Try" means, but I would guess you mean I made this or did something too it.
If that is the case, then you would be wrong. I traded this knife with someone I know in the hopes of flipping it on eBay. If I got taken, then most likely my friend got taken, and I will make sure to let him know.
If you gan give me your thoughts I would much apprieciate it.
The scratches on the blades are often called "blade rub"...indicating either less than ideally crinked/fitted original blades, or possibly something is not correct about the knife.
The "burr" as you termed it, looks like a flat spot where the steel folds over when the knife closes and overtravel causes it to hit the backspring. This again is usually caused by less than ideal fit and finish. Since the blade already has a pronounced kick at the base of the tang, and the clip blade already sits very low in the frame, I don't believe you can fix that without skilled hands and the proper tools...and maybe not at all.
Certain things about this knife would certainly cause me pause as far as purchasing it. I'm not however, a Case, or antique knife expert. I believe there are several here who frequnt these forums.
Bill
Bill,
Thank you very much for the great info!
If, in fact, this is a real Case knife, it sounds as though it has some issues. Would this indicate that the knife has been rebuilt or possibly a factory second (if there is such a thing in 1920-1940)?
I realize that the first set of photos were not the best for forensic work, so here you go everyone. I posted them in a web gallery because it was much easier to do than insert each link for the files. Please note that if you are on a dial-up connection, the photos may take a moment to load.
I really do not want to list this on eBay as genuine if it is not, so give me as much info as possible.
My friend says it is genuine and he is a Case knife collector, so we will see what the experts say.
I hate to tell you, but not only is the tang stamp not right, I think the handles are in question now that there are close up pics. Look at the tang stamps on this link. Yours isnt there...sorry. http://www.wrcase.com/case_college/tang_logo_stamp/
Complete fake, made out of a Queen #19 trapper pattern....
The tang stamps don't look right
The nail pull and the tang stamp are on the wrong side of the spey blade
Stag handles are not finished off nearly as nicely as they would be on a genuine Case Tested
Stag does not look right in general
Shield is wrong and is improperly installed
Here is a way to tell for sure....can you tell whether the blades and springs are carbon steel or stainless steel? Stainless steel usually has a different look or "patina"......if you wanted to you could just put the very tip of one blade into an apple.....if it stains, its carbon (would clean off with simichrome if done quickly)...
If my theory is correct and it was made out of a Queen, it would be stainless steel, which an authentic Case Tested would NOT be.....OTOH even if it is carbone, still looks bad to me.....JMHO, though...
I don't know for sure but it looks like his Tang Stamp matches up with you link information to me ----->(CASE - TESTED XX - 1920 to 1940), CC Bill or Perry (knifekid) where are you & what are your thoughts???
"Texas collector", Roger - 50/2050
A standing life member of the "Case Classic Club", "allaboutpocketknives.com" & "elephanttoenails.com"
I have highlighted the dead give aways for why this is fake, The C's on the blades are different from each other for one, And the mis-stamp runs the C into the A in one picture. The E's are stamped in funny as well. You would think the knife itself would have the same exact stampings if it was authentic would you not? Oh and I noticed after I posted them, compare the S's in each stamp, they are different as well.
Hey friends, I realize a picture says a thousand words but here are a few to help with the fake stamp.
The stamp on the knife appears all wrong. The "C" with the straight line over "Tested XX" has a definite check mark out the top also the "S" has a small uptick to it. This could be worn but does not seem like it. Also the "E" should be box like with square edges and straight on the top. Also the "Tested XX" underneath the line of the "C" is all out of line. Below the "S" the "E" should be at the beginning of the bottom of the "S" and the right side of the "S" should be over the first "X". Way off.
The stag does scream fake, but that aint the half of it. As a long time collector of vintage Case Trappers I can tell you that a tested era trapper should only have one tang stamp on the master blade. They don't even have pattern numbers. Beware of the tested trapper with any marking on the spey blade and that includes a pattern #. The tested trapper has a very striking slim racey look about it with a nice formidable looking upswept blade. Once you've seen one you want forget it. These trappers that are in at least excellent condition commonly command prices in the thousands of dollars. Needless to say counterfieters find them very lucrative. They are also one of Case's most conterfieted knives so be careful folks. Just so Thermageek will know what the real thing looks like I'm going to send Brian a picture and let him size it down. Everytime I send one it's big as the side of a house.
Take Care
Blade Runner
Wow!!! That is a beauty.
Now I have a question, is that a muskrat blade or is that the regular trapper blade of that era? I still get confused about them.
In my opinion....hehhe I agree with Knifeaholic,4ever3, and Roger 50/2050... they can't fool everybody ALL the time can they boys??? In time like these I like to refer to my Case collector's pocket guide. I have tried to attach a couple of pics ...sorry boys for the space it takes up but I did it this way so it can be seen in large format clearly... later, WT3L
Hi Joe 62, This is this the usual blade in the tested era trapper. I think it is one of the best looking blades in all of knifedom. In my opinion true muskrat blades are only in U.S.A. era trapper(1965-1969). There are some folks that say a few can be found in the XX era and the 1970 10 dot era, and to be sure there are a couple of different blade widths in these eras one of which is slender. The true muskrat blade sits lower in the frame, which can be best viewed with both blades fully opened. My contention is that alleged muskrat blades in the xx era, and the 1970 10 dot era are not only shaped different but do not sit low in the frame(at least not the ones I've seen to date). If you insist on calling the xx era and the 1970 10 dot slim blades muskrat blades then at the very least you must admit that they are a little different than the true muskrat.
Take Care
Blade Runner
----->(CASE - TESTED XX - 1920 to 1940), CC Bill or Perry (knifekid) where are you & what are your thoughts???
I agree with Knifeaholic,4ever3, and Roger 50/2050... 
but I did it this way so it can be seen in large format clearly... later, WT3L