Knife Lubricants

[Mumbleypeg]

For the crusty rusty knives that are in need of a resurrection, don't think you find a better performing oil than PB Blaster penetrating oil.

Never tried PB Blaster on knives but I'll testify that it's great on freeing up rusted, locked up machinery and bolts, etc. around the ranch. From my experience it's better for that purpose than either Liquid Wrench or WD-40. I see no reason it would not work well on rusty knife mechanisms.

I have jumped around abit with lubricants (3:1, mineral oil and even tried Tuf-Glide - the latter I am not too fond of as I am not sure how good of a job it does) but have to say I do like Quick Release especially on old knives that need some loosening of blades that have sat for a long time.

Not intending this as a disagreement or argument, just to clarify. My testimonial regarding Tuf-glide comes from years of results. I am sure of how good a job it does. However after the carrier evaporates only the dry lube remains, which you can't see It like you can an oil product. But what can be easily seen is the results. I've seen Tuf-glide bring back the snap to a formerly lazy blade, free up rusted joints, and prevent rust on high carbon steel knives treated with it (even after being forgotten and left in the trunk of a car for several weeks ). It's also a superior lube for firearms - the military application for which it was originally developed. And it will not harm wood, bone, stag, plastics, pearl, etc.

I have used Quick Release, 3-in-1, RemOil, Hoppes, Ren-Wax, and White Lightning wax, graphite powder, and others I've forgotten over the years. They all have their pros and most are good products in their own ways, when used in the right application. I'll probably get tempted and try a few more - always looking for something better. I am an advocate of Quick Release - it's a great oil. But I do know oils attract dirt, and dirt will eventually attract moisture. In applications where dirt/dust is not a concern Quick Release is as good as it gets, best oil I have found for knives. I like it. If you're outdoors a lot and in a dusty environment, or just want a great protectant for your gear, IMHO Tuf-glide/Tuf-cloth is excellent. If I could just have one product only, it would be Tuf-glide.

Rant over! (It's cold, windy, and miserable here, so I'm resisting going back outdoors).

Ken

[gwelker62]

For the crusty rusty knives that are in need of a resurrection, don't think you find a better performing oil than PB Blaster penetrating oil.

Never tried PB Blaster on knives but I'll testify that it's great on freeing up rusted, locked up machinery and bolts, etc. around the ranch. From my experience it's better for that purpose than either Liquid Wrench or WD-40. I see no reason it would not work well on rusty knife mechanisms.

Ken

I hear ya. I've been in the auto repair biz for 30+ plus years, and general gear head for longer than that. I have used up more cans of PB Blaster than I can shake a stick at.

Often times I find in different worlds (like the knife, firearms, or even bicycle world) sellers will market 'specialty' products that are specific for that device, when there are products in the auto repair world that are just as good if not better... and cheaper! A can a PB can be had for 3-4 bucks. A small bottle of that Blue Lube can be 15+?

[jmh58]

Another QR fan!!

Does GS remove old hafting gunk??? Gotta clean any new CASE joints as they don't!! John

Yes.

Thank You!!! John

[Thaddaeus]

Been wondering about quality oil for some of my moderns now that I'm actually developing a collection.

For slipjoints and others of traditional construction I use mineral oil on most anything that might touch food, 3-in-1 on some working/larger knives, and Liquid Bearings on the problem children. I also use mineral oil on most oilstones. It's cheap, clean, and effective. Each of those GEC 1095 safe queens I know so many of you have should get a light coating on all the carbon bits every so often.

I'm about to pull an old Boker USA jack out of a mineral oil bath to see if it's going to join the redheaded stepchildren or not.

Ditto, Chances are any knife I have may come in contact with food.
Yeah I know, it is supposed to gum up & all that, but I use what I have -- olive oil. Either straight out of the bottle or the aerosol version.
Good to know that Ballistol is food safe too. I'll have to give it a try.

[LongBlade]

Everything I learned about lubes and all was on this website so I thank all of you ... in fact it was one of my first questions as a new member a few years back and as you all know the question about lubes has come up multiple times at least over the last few years... and as I think most would agree I am not sure there is any right answer and everybody has their likes... it was a post about QR that made me buy a bottle and in truth it loosened old blades for me like no other product I have used....

Ken - ... I don't disagree with you and you have way more experience than me - but thanks for the clarification anyway though I didn't mean anything by my original post (believe me I am the last person who wants to start any arguments or disagreements - I only do all this for fun and if the fun leaves collecting knives I will be done with it)... I think my comment about Tuf-Glide was based upon what you clarified and that is the Tuf-Glide will leave a coating despite it not looking like it worked due to evaporation... so in my own inexperience I figured it must not work very long when in fact there was a dry film that lubed and protected the blades (I actually have a Tuf-Glide cloth and on a few knives back a few years I wiped down the blades too for protection)... and in truth I often still use the Tuf-Glide cloth but only inside liners during cleaning of an old knife that needs it badly...

These days I often do little to the blades other than a good wipe with a chamois cloth after lubing the pivot, some lube in the pivots and a wipe of the handles with a light coat of mineral oil (especially old wood and bone but not MOP or "I" - and I do nothing to celluloid knives at all in fear of triggering the poof phenomenon)... I especially don't like to do anything to blades with an etch but that is my own not wanting to take a chance on etches... deeper stamped etches like tang stamps of makers are not a concern for me or maybe put better a worry that I will ruin the etch... so overall I have come around again to a minimalist approach to old knives and do what only seems to be necessary... active "red" rust is no doubt a necessity that needs to be removed but as I learned here a gentle removal with an oil soak and 0000 x-fine steel wool works in most cases and in the worse rust cases I use a lead pencil... I think for me the key word now is gentle if anything is done and never used an aggressive approach right from the start.. but please keep in mind I am no expert and just have opinions...

[LDF Knives]

Kind of excited I just ordered some Quick Release!! can't wait to try on my knives!

[Colonel26]

Been wondering about quality oil for some of my moderns now that I'm actually developing a collection.

For slipjoints and others of traditional construction I use mineral oil on most anything that might touch food, 3-in-1 on some working/larger knives, and Liquid Bearings on the problem children. I also use mineral oil on most oilstones. It's cheap, clean, and effective. Each of those GEC 1095 safe queens I know so many of you have should get a light coating on all the carbon bits every so often.

I'm about to pull an old Boker USA jack out of a mineral oil bath to see if it's going to join the redheaded stepchildren or not.

Ditto, Chances are any knife I have may come in contact with food.
Yeah I know, it is supposed to gum up & all that, but I use what I have -- olive oil. Either straight out of the bottle or the aerosol version.
Good to know that Ballistol is food safe too. I'll have to give it a try.

Ballistol was developed by the Germans back during WWI. It has to lube and preserve their weapons, leather, and wood. The soldiers were even known to cook with it. It'll clean and feed a wood gunstock like nothing else. In Germany they even sell it as Neoballistol as a topical antiseptic.

It will also emulsify with water instead or separating. So even if your knife is wet it'll still lubricate and protect. That is one reason I use it on my field guns.

[Lansky1]

I've always used 3 in 1 oil for all my knives. Is there any practical advantage to using the more specialized lubricants / oils mentioned in this thread over 3 in 1 which has been around forever ? I always thought oil was pretty much oil & never paid much attention to it

[Paladin]

I've always used 3 in 1 oil for all my knives. Is there any practical advantage to using the more specialized lubricants / oils mentioned in this thread over 3 in 1 which has been around forever ? I always thought oil was pretty much oil & never paid much attention to it

I was exactly like you in this regard. I had always used 3in1 mainly because that is what Daddy used. It did most jobs adequately. For some reason I tried some RemOil and I thought it was the be all-end all of oils. But when Quick Release came out I gave it a try and I can't imagine a better oil! I use it exclusively on joints and the results are amazing.

Ray

[Colonel26]

I've always used 3 in 1 oil for all my knives. Is there any practical advantage to using the more specialized lubricants / oils mentioned in this thread over 3 in 1 which has been around forever ? I always thought oil was pretty much oil & never paid much attention to it

I was an old 3 in One user for years. It works fine. But QR penetrates into the joint better and seems to stay put longer. Brings back more snap too.

[Thaddaeus]

Googled Ballistol & Neoballistol. Need to get some for my medical kit.

Question -- Didn't the Marble's Company have something to do with 3 in 1 oil?

[biglmbass]

I use and like the Quick Release too. What I like most about it is the needle like applicator tip so I can get the oil exactly where I want it. I did loose the red cap though...

[bestgear]

About 20 years ago I came to know a gentleman in Longmeadow Massachusetts and after about a year he sold me his entire Girl Scout knife collection. During that year he shared what he had learned about cleaning and lubricating a knife. He said that he only used one product to clean (Simichrome) and one product to lubricate; TufOil. Since then that's the only lubricant that I've ever used although this thread may convince me to try Quick Release.

[Mumbleypeg]

I've always used 3 in 1 oil for all my knives. Is there any practical advantage to using the more specialized lubricants / oils mentioned in this thread over 3 in 1 which has been around forever ? I always thought oil was pretty much oil & never paid much attention to it

Lubricants are formulated to have different properties, based on their intended application. What's good in your car's engine is likely not what's best for a sewing machine, a firearm, or the gear box of a tractor. Or on your knife. A pocket knfe is a pretty simple tool mechanically. I suspect most if not all the lubes mentioned previously in this thread will do a good job of lubricating the joints. Certainly better to use any of them than nothing at all. For typical EDC knives they are more than adequate.

Some of this discussion has been about freeing up rusted, dirty, or dry joints. In my personal experience 3-in-1 will do these jobs, as most of the others. Quick Release oil is the best that I've used for this. It seems more viscous than other oils and therefore penetrates into the joint better. Mineral oil has the advantage of being food-safe so if you're applying more oil to your EDC than just a drop in the joint, that may be a concern for you. Mineral oil is also outstanding for re-hydrating natural materials such as stag and bone.

Another application especially important for collectibles is corrosion prevention. 3-in-1, mineral oil, WD-40, etc. can be used for this also. However in my experiece that process can be pretty messy and over time may become gummy or sticky (depends on the substance used, how much, and length of time stored). Ren-wax and Tuf-Glide are the best I've used for preventing damage to stored knives. They both leave a dry, non-oily corrosion resistant protective coating on the knife. If applied per directions moisture does not penetrate through it to the metal. My preference is Tuf-Glide because it's easier to apply than wax, and it is also an excellent dry lubricant. It is not oil, not wax, and it will not attract or capture dirt, dust, lint or moisture. When the carrier evaporates it's invisible. (So if you're one that needs to visually see the substance on the item to believe it's working, it's not for you.)

Most lubes we use for knives were originally developed for other applications. Many like Rem-oil, Ballistol, and Tuf-Glide were developed for firearms used in conditions most pocket knives won't see. In that regard they're overkill. And 3-in-1 alone may be over simplification. Use what you're comfortable with and judge based on results.

Ken

[Tsar Bomba]

Ken makes excellent points. A lot of this comes down to personal experience and personal use cases, though I must admit the affinity for Quick Release is impressive. I'm going to have to sub it in where I normally use Liquid Bearings and see how it works.

Mineral oil is also outstanding for re-hydrating natural materials such as stag and bone.

I have excellent luck using a little bit of it as a preventative every so often on wood-handled knives, and I often use liberal amounts of the stuff to bring some of the life back into old, dried-out wood scales. I have yet to find anything that makes my '70s jigged wood 6250s pop more.