Knife Care to Save For a Long Time ?

[justold52]

I was looking for info on knife handle care.Some say oil the knife,or use PETROLEUM JELLY on them,others say wax with RENAISSANCE.so I oiled frist ,then jellyed them.Now I under stand on stag handles just clean and wax because oil will hurt the stag handles.Now I come to the boned handles.Some real bone? some not real bone? I not know the differance they just say RED BONE on J.A. Henckeis knives.Will petroleum jell hurt them? If you have a place on this site that deals with knife care I have not found it yet.

[olderdogs1]

I'll get you started. I'm sure others with more knowledge will jump in soon. I would definitely stay away from the petroleum jelly. It traps water and can cause rust. I clean with semichrome which you can get at any knife show and use Rem oil if needed which is silicone based. Jim Parker always recommended a light coat of machine oil on the blades. I have to say the knives I got from him had this and I never had any problem with them. This being said storing the knives in in dry controlled temperatures will do more than all of the maintenance you can you. I have used the renaissance wax but have not had time to evaluate its effectiveness.
Olderdogs1

[sunburst]

If you are looking for knife care products I recommend checking out this Knife store. They sell quality products at an affordable price that will help you with your needs...Glenn the owner has been extremely helpful and proffesional with my questions...

http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... php?t=1535


Take care,

Sunburst

[justold52]

Thank you olderdogs1
One more thing, will the oil hurt the handels?I was told not to use oil on the handles and How do you oil blades only ? I too have recives some knives from Jim Parker they do look real nice from his storring them.
Now that I have pro jelly on most of my knives what's a good way to remove the jelly ?? Soap and WATER ??

[olderdogs1]

I don't think the Rem oil will hurt the handles. But again I will defer to someone with more knowledge. I would use rubbing alcohol to get the jelly off, probably with a Q-tip and then clean with the semichrome. You could use the Rem Oil as a light coating for the blades. This has just been my experience. As I said before someone with more knowledge can probably help us both out.

[ilikeknives]

Justold,
I went to my store and I see your order . From what I have read here, you have made a very smart move . Look, you can go and read for hours on end who recommends what, and they are all probably viable recommendations. I have spent a considerable amount of time researching the questions so many knifers pose regarding knife care, and this is what I have found. First of all, ask anyone who uses Rennaissance Wax (Ren-Wax), it is, the be-all end-all in total knife preservation/care. Bryan, if you read this, will you chip in briefly? Basically justold, this wax is used by professional cutlery conservator's the world over, and anyone who uses it, swears by it. It forms a micro-crystalline barrier on your whole knife (thats the professional jargon) it goes on your whole knife, easy on, easy off, thats it, it's protected. POLISH: The polish most folks use is one of 2. The first would be FLITZ, and the second would be SIMICHROME, I know you have seen it spelled a multitude of ways, but it is indeed as s-i-mi (to avoid confusion with s-e-mi), just FYI. Both are great polishes and you'd do well by either one. LUBE: well, this lube you've ordered is wonderful for these reasons: First, it is a lube that goes on wet, and dries to form a lubrication barrier that is so good, the troops in the middle east swear by it in their personal weapons. I like it for that reason too, there are good wet lubes out there, I am sorry I cannot recommend Rem-Oil because I have heard stories both ways about it's use, long-term. I have a wet lube in my store that is teflon-based, and I have heard of others, however, I stand behind this product by time-tested observation and use. One last thing. DO NOT , ever , use a shop rag to clean or polish a knife. Can you imagine if there were one small piece of metal shard caught in it and you didn't realize it until it had permanently scratched your knife? Again, anyone who has ever used a microfiber cloth (like the one I carry, there are others) loves it. They are super-soft, and wipe smudges and fingerprints in one wipe. They are machine-washable and 100's of times re-usable. They are all I use on my own babies and I have several. My cloths touch only my knives. I guess if I am willing to pay multi-hundreds of dollars on knives, I can spend a little on their care and preservation. Consider it unbelieveably cheap insurance on advise from professional conservators.
OK, thats basically it. I will e-mail you regarding your purchase, but you can always feel free to email me or PM me with questions,now, or later.
I hope this clarifies and perhaps helps.-ILK

[Hukk]

If I have something greasy on the blades, I like to clean it off with Rem Oil first. It works well to clean with a like substance. I keep a microfiber cloth just for that purpose. Then I will use the Simichrome and REN-WAX. I really like both of these products and use them regularly.

[justold52]

Hello

Ok now if I have it right
1. clean and polish blades and handle with FLITZ with soft cotton cloth, Old T shirt (i have 6 tubes).
2. Wax blade and handles with Renaissance (I have a 200 ml can)using your mic cloth(I did not know that you can wash and reuse)
3. Oil the blade only with your oil in this kit using a Q tip to speed oil.
4. I then place them in a zip lock bag (if needed add bubble wrap).
5. I spray the sheath with Kiwi Camp Dry (let dry 24hrs).
6. Now I place knife in it's own bag, Factory box and sheath and any papers work ( I make a copy of what I got from E Bay so when I die my heir can sell for a profit ) all in one more big zip lock bag.
7. Then I place them in a cardboard box and seal it (by knife makers) and store in dry even humidity place. Do NOT for get to INSURE them right.
I bought a old gun storage case with glass front doors. Making glass shelves with lights added to use as a knife showcase and storage place for some super knives. But I fell if any thief comes in my house then he too well see them and steal them.
Now do I under stand this is the RIGHT way ??

[Hukk]

I keep my knives in folders in a fireproof gunsafe that weighs in excess of 600lbs. This gunsafe has a digital lock and 5 hardened steel rods that are 1 1/2 inch or so in diameter that lock through the safe frame. There would be some damage to celluloids if their were a fire, but no one will break in without a cutting torch. It has shelves and is made by Sentry. Granted, it's not cheap. I was lucky to pick it up second hand. The humidity is also controlled. I keep my documentation and COA's in there as well, kept in an accordian type folder to keep everytning in order.

Many collectors I know keep their knives in safe deposit boxes. I certainly have insurance, but it would be impossible to replace them.

[jonet143]

i like a gun safe too, hukk

johnnie

[ilikeknives]

I agree with both of Hukk's last posts here. I do not have a safe, but, I will write to you, Justtold, along with answering the other questions you posed, a bit later today. I guess Rem-Oil would work, as a LIKE substance to clean the "gunk" off of a badly misused knife, but would tend to shy away as a preservative. Using Simichrome A-N-D RenWax as a 1-2 punch of preservation/cleaning, is a heck of a good idea. Write back to you later JsT, in your private message. Should you wish to post it afterwards, be my guest.-Glenn aka ILK

[olderdogs1]

I would like comment on the use of simichrome on celluloid or composition plastic handles. Also its use on stag handles. After the Ren wax, is there a need for the oil at all for storage. Also will the oil hurt the handles, both plastic and stag, and cause rust or not? Thanks in advance for your comments.

[justold52]

Super www site. I what to say THANKS to OLDERDOG1, SUNBURST for the link, I LIKE KNIVES, HUKK and JONET143 for your help and understanding. I did get a starter key from I LIKE KNIVES.
Does any one else think this is some thing more people need to know? If so can this be in a tab on this site under Knife Care? If so then give peoples 2 different ways or steps to follow. Just a thought I am not one to tell other what to do.
This would have saved my lots of time. Because I had to clean my knives 3 times now and I have lots of them most SCHRADE about 240 so far. THATS a lot of CLEANING.I do get to see them this way lol I hope that in time these will be worth more than what I paid. Can any one tell me if it’s better to collect costume knives or production knives? I have 2 D'Holder and 2 Yellowhorse, some other custom knives just because they look so good to me. I fell that most knife collectors save them to make an investment or they just love the workman ship and want a piece of history.
So if any one wants to add their opinion please do so to head me in the right direction ok
Ken

[jonet143]

ken, i think you're heading in the right direction now.
collecting is a personal thing to me. i collect what i like and if they appreciate in value so much the better.
this sight can help you avoid the novice mistakes a lot of us learned the hard way.
ask questions and ask more questions.



johnnie

[tank]

Hi guys, this post is very helpful! Thanks! I'm very new to collecting (a couple of Schatt's couple of Robeson's a few Case's) I'm currently keeping them in a knife roll, is this acceptable or damaging? It's a nice roll with felt liners that covers the knives from touching each other.
Thanks in advance and I look forward to learning lots from you guys. I've hunted/collected civil war relics for years but new at knifing.
Anthony

[jonet143]

to use a kniferoll for storage or not is a two sided coin. moisture is the worst enemy to your knives. as long as the environment you keep them is dry, they should be fine. however, if you have any with celluoid handles they should be stored seperately because as they deteriorate, they can and will harm any other knives in close proximity.
inspect them regularly and wipe them with a product that has been proven. some of our members have these products for sale at fair prices and will guide you for the right reasons.
other members probably have other suggestions as well.
there is a lot of knowledge to be gotten from these forums.
i would like to see some of your knives as well as the civil war relics.

johnnie

[knifeswapper]

The only problem with a knife roll, etc. is that the bands will tarnish nickel silver and even stag over long periods of time. But they are very convenient as long as you keep an eye on them.

As far as a cloth, I have not found anything that works as good as a real chamois for getting off fingerprints or any other micro debris. On the oil question I see a lot of good recommendations, I might add that Slick50 is a good joint / backspring oil for those knives that need a little cleaning/flushing as well as pure lubrication. I have never had a problem with it as a general purpose lubricant as far as that goes.

[tank]

Thanks guys I really appreciate the quick informative answers. I guessI'll polish and oil them up with the kit from i-l-k and keep them in the roll. I'll for sure keep an eye on them, I cant quit staring at them
Hi Mike btw..I recieved the German Eye I ordered from you last week, it's a beauty! Thanks.
I'll post some pics of my lil collection soon. I'm 90% paralyzed due to a degenerating muscle disease so it takes me abit to do things.

[justold52]

Hello tank

Welcome to this super nice site. I to am new here. One thing about oiling your knife. Please use the Tuf-Glide on the knife hinges only and not all over the main blades. After you Ren waxed the blades. I have been told that fossil oil will blacken a knife blade in time. Just like blood does blacken a knife in time. Some people use olive oil on their knives to protect them. I think its because its not fossil oil. Others use vegetable oil again for this same reason. I like the small needle that comes with Tur-Glide it works so good to just add a drop in the knife on the hinges.

The best way to find out what to do is ask or post the problem here before you do any things because the old pro’s will come back with an answer and you will NOT make as many mistakes that way too.

[El Lobo]

Gents,

Olive oil and Vegetable oil will turn RANCID... and smell really bad.
Regular Mineral oil is the best and least expensive lubricant and natural handle treatment to use, in my opinion.
However, it won't offer LONG TERM rust protection like some of the newer lubricants...so that information is worth considering and well meant to all collectors.

Bill

[Hukk]

I agree with El Lobo 100% on using vegetable of any type on knives. As he mentioned, they do turn rancid and eventually smell. I use the products that I Like Knives (Glenn) sells in his store and could not be happier with the results.

The only exception is that for a of high carbon couple fillet knives I use an industrial food grade lubricant that I purchased long ago from a local restaurant supply house. I ended up using this because I did some maintenance work for a local frozen food company that processed, cooked, and packed frozen foods and this form of lubricant is required. I do this because one knife is used to fillet salmon and rockfish (snapper or pacific snapper is the market name, if the skin is left on it is called ocean perch, all are the same fish) and the other smaller knife I use to trim abalone, the meat is quite dense and requires a sharp blade. I just prefer not to use a fossil lube on knives that will be in contact with my food.
Since I do not use them as often as reular kitchen cutlery I felt I needed a good way to store them. I wash, dry, lube, and put them away in a plastic container with excellent results.

[glennbad]

I have read that there is "food grade" mineral oil available. Maybe it's all food grade???

I've never heard of using Slick-50, wonder how it works? I have a thing of it in my shop, I don't use it much, I was noting that if the stuff dribbled onto the container, it would eventually crust up on the outside. But that's just my experience, YMMV.

I can give a thumbs up for Tuf-Glide as well, the needle applicator gets into all kinds of tiny places.

Glenn

[El Lobo]

The Food Grade mineral oil is what I was referring to, as Baby oil is mineral oil with fragrance...so is Sword oil, I believe. You can get it in most any Drug or Grocery store. It's pretty inexpensive ($2), and it's also good for your cutting boards (helps keep them from warping)...and as a laxative.

I agree that Tuf-Glide with the needle like applicator is good stuff as well.

Bill

[justold52]

Has any one noted this was my first post at AAPK ?
I still think if some one could make a step by step list on cleaning and storeing knives. Then placeing it under a tab at the top. Them more will be gratefull. Or if you had like 2 or 3 ways of cleaning knives.

It was real nice to re read this again too. This was my first POST here.
I see many new people that join AAPK ask this same thing. Thank you for useing that link TANK and helping the new collector out.

[tank]

I agree Ken, a step by step guide on cleaning, polishing, protecting and storing would be a great addition to the guide section.