In the last week I scored an Old Timer 1940T with the similar liner lock to the one Meridian Mike had except this liner lock is working as good as the day it was made. I have spent a few hours in the last week cleaning it up to remove the rust. A popsicle stick wrapped in 200 grit paper cleaned up the blade well and what little crud was still there, I raked out with a splinter probe.I washed it out in denatured spirits-we call it mentholated spirits down under.
The blade opens and closes really well and has a nice strong snap.The blade profile was unfortunate but more on that later.
I have used 200,400 and 800 wet and dry to remove the rust and scratches caused by some woeful sharpening techniques.
It must have been the same idiot as wrecked Mike's knife -these idiots sure move around. I have found that using a rubber and W & D Paper I get wonderful results - hang on! you call them erasers,don't you, not rubbers ? I would hate to give the wrong impression.
I have two questions arising from the work I have done.
The first question is regarding the patina.I have used wet and dry paper and paraffin oil- you may know it as baby oil.The paraffin protects the metal well against my salt exuding fingers. The question is however, will a patina form over time while using this oil? The oil seems to soak into the bone scales on other knives and protects knives well as I am close to the sea.
Secondly a previous owner- a man who should be made to wear a blue striped apron, sharpened the blade in such a way as to remove a belly of metal some 5/16" ahead of the choil nick, the deepest part of the missing metal is about 3/32" deep.
I am inclined to resharpen and move the profile back that 3/32" to the choil end to straighten up the cutting edge.
Is this a giant NO NO or could this re shaping on the blade it be regarded as normal practice?
Thanks
Ozwelder
