Here's a mistake I just learned the hard way!

[herbva]

I picked up this Case 3318 with badly decomposing celluloid scales and rehandled it with smooth, white undyed bone. I now know that I should have put a coat of wax on it before spinning the rocker pin heads. The dark stain you see on each side around the rocker pin is from the drop of cutting oil I put on each pin head before spinning. (A trick I learned a while back courtesy of Dale.) The oil apparently soaked into the bone before I realized what was happening. I've done this many times, but never had that problem because I've never used white bone before. Oh well, this was never going to be a museum quality piece anyway. Yes, I did reuse the beat up old shield that came with the knife and that split on the left end was already there before I started operating.

[Tony_Wood]

Thanks for the heads up. Could you now soak the rest of the bone in oil to make it match?

[Doc B]

Thanks for the heads up. Could you now soak the rest of the bone in oil to make it match?

That was my thoughts...unless you've already put wax on it.

[orvet]

If it were me, I would definitely consider oiling the rest of the bone. If it doesn't take the oil you might warm the oil and let the knife set in the warm oil, unless you want to take the scales off and just work with them.

Depending on the oil you use no, it shouldn't hurt the knife, and it should clean up fairly easily with warm water and Dawn dishwashing soap.

[Sharpnshinyknives]

I picked up this Case 3318 with badly decomposing celluloid scales and rehandled it with smooth, white undyed bone. I now know that I should have put a coat of wax on it before spinning the rocker pin heads. The dark stain you see on each side around the rocker pin is from the drop of cutting oil I put on each pin head before spinning. (A trick I learned a while back courtesy of Dale.) The oil apparently soaked into the bone before I realized what was happening. I've done this many times, but never had that problem because I've never used white bone before. Oh well, this was never going to be a museum quality piece anyway. Yes, I did reuse the beat up old shield that came with the knife and that split on the left end was already there before I started operating.

Herb, I started a thread months ago about natural bone soaking up oil I’ve had it happen on Case and Bear knives. Just oiling the blade tang can do this too. I’ve had this happen to Mediterranean Blue bone too. Oiling the entire handle is the only way to even this out. You may have to oil the handle more than once to get it to match.
SSk

[herbva]

Thanks everyone. I tried detergent and even rubbing it with acetone, but not much improvement. Looks like I'm going to have to give in and oil the rest of the bone and have a gray handle knife.

[orvet]

Herb, what kind of oil are you using on the pins?

I use Ultra Lube which is more of a gel than an oil.
It doesn't tend to liquify and get under scales. I also use very little of it. I haven't found that using a lot of it is helpful in spinning the pins, so I just put a little dab on the end of the pan before I spin it. It isn't liquid enough that you can get it to drop but if it were a liquid I would use about half a drop on the end of the pins before spinning them and then I wiped the spinner clean after every second pin that I spin.
That way I don't get a buildup of brass shavings or liquefied oil.

[herbva]

Dale, I use the Ultra Lube drilling and tapping fluid. Just a tiny drop on the pin head just before I engage the spinner. Amazing how it spreads around. A while back I think you recommended the gel to me and I couldn't find it so I went with the fluid and it does make quite a difference. I am definitely going to hunt for the gel now after this disaster. Thanks for the advice! On another note, do you think it would be possible for me to dye the bone while it is still on the knife? I am thinking red might hide the oil stains and I assume it won't permanently stain the metal parts. I have tried Dawn detergent, bleach, acetone and everything else I could think of, but those stains apparently have soaked into the bone pretty deep and I'm not too keen on the idea of gray all over.

[orvet]

Herb,
Here is a link to USA Knifemakers Supply where I got mine. The small bottle will last you for years, less than $4.00!

https://usaknifemaker.com/ultra-lube-cu ... c69f0e78c9

[Jeffinn]

I had the same staining recently on white bone from WD40. I usually give my knives a quick cleanup with dishwashing soap and a scrub brush to remove any leftover compound from the surfaces. I follow this up with a quick spray down of WD40 to disperse the water. It must have leeched through from the back side when I was spraying the inner liners and backsprings.

I never thought about spraying the rest of the handles to make them the same as the stain.
I might try that or possibly lightly torching the bone a bit (all over) to change it’s appearance
What kind of wax are you guys using on your bone handles?
Thanks.
Jeff

[Quick Steel]

I use Renaissance Wax.

[herbva]

Ditto, Renaissance is the best wax I have tried. Jeff, you might want to wait a bit. I'm not sure, but I think WD40 may eventually evaporate. You also might want to try rubbing the stained spot with acetone on a q-tip. It did lighten up the stain on my knife a little bit.

[Jeffinn]

Ditto, Renaissance is the best wax I have tried. Jeff, you might want to wait a bit. I'm not sure, but I think WD40 may eventually evaporate. You also might want to try rubbing the stained spot with acetone on a q-tip. It did lighten up the stain on my knife a little bit.

Thanks, I’ll give the acetone a try and I’ll pick up some Renaissance wax for the next project knife.
Jeff

[orvet]

Personally, I stopped using Ren Wax in 2008, when I discovered Walker Wax. When I customize a knife I use Walker Wax on the inside as well as the outside; it noticeably slows the tarnishing of the brass.
It removes fingerprints as well as removing any leftover polishing compound as a result of custom work. It also prevents fingerprinting. Walker Wax contains a micro abrasive that will actually polish the blade slightly without removing the patina and it will not scratch blades or bolsters. Walker Wax also prevents the growth of the fungus that causes verdigris and it will protect the blade from the spotting as a result of spittle from people talking over the knives on your table at a show.

There was a good article in the June 2011 issue of Blade Magazine, ("Keys to Bust Knife Rust") in which the author compared Renaissance Wax and Walker Wax.

There are several things I like about Walker Wax compared to Ren Wax; it is less expensive, it slows tarnishing and prevents verdigris, it doesn't have the petroleum/chemical smell of Ren Wax and it gives the blades a smooth silky texture that doesn't seem to fingerprint. However, what I like best about Walker Wax when compared to Ren Wax is that I believe Walker Wax protects my knives better and longer.

At $10 for a 5.5 ounce jar -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WALKER-WAX-FOR ... Swgv5ZUF~0

Not my eBay store, not my merchandise, I just think it's a very good product.

[Jeffinn]

Thanks Dale, I’ll take a look at it.

[herbva]

Dale, I'm going to give Walker a try. As always, your sage advice is greatly appreciated. Besides, that scary looking guy on the label is enough to convince me. FYI, I only use the ren wax on handle scales as a last finishing touch.

[orvet]

Please let me know how you like it.
I use it on pretty much any material in a knife, blade, liners, handles, etc. The only thing I wouldn't use it on is the celluloid handles with pictures under them, or the celluloid paper on shell handle knives. I have used not had a problem with it, but it but one of the eBay ads caution against using it on those handles.

[dtomp]

What about the walker wax on etched blades? I read an article the other day that said ren wax would or could remove the etching on the newer blades. Anyone have any thoughts or knowledge on this?

[orvet]

I haven't had a problem with it removing the etch, but I don't rub hard on the etch either. I mostly use it to clean the etch and protect it from spotting.
It does nicely at removing dirt from the etch and making it brighter.