Trapper Redo

[4ever3]

I was asked to do a step by step on another forum, so I figure I'll do it over here too

I forgot to get pics of the knife coming apart but I've shown that before, but I'll show another if anyone wants me to.



This one is going to be a single blade, here it is with the holes drilled and put back together.



The liners have been rough sanded into shape



The lines are layed out on the liners and ready to be milled, this is the first one I have done with milled liners, and I've spent alot of time trying to figure out how to do it with what I have I think I've got it figured out.



OK, one liner is done and I think it is going to work, I hope to get the other liner done tomorrow and get the bolsters soldered on this weekend.



p.s.
Always keep tape on the blade edge, oh, and paper towels in the shed too



If I have left something out or didn't make something clear ask away...

[Diligence]

OUCH! Better yet, purposely dull the edge before modifying. This is what I do "now"....not "before"....

[Hukk]

Why tape is good, masking and sometimes duct tape - depends on what I'm doing. Take care, I don't let my wife see it, I have used CA to close the wound prior to coming in the house. Works great, unless you bump it to hard.

[Diligence]

I'd be very careful using CA to close the wounds. Easy to trap dirt inside the wound. CA is not Dermabond, but it is close. Lots on the web about this....and I'm not a doctor, just good at patching myself up.

cheers.
J

[Hukk]

Are you using a CNC or other mill or just a drill press using an end mill and a table with an xy axis? I use the latter method but not with anything as fine as a liner.

[4ever3]

No Hukk, it's a drill press with an xy vise, I did several trial and error pieces and got it figured out pretty good, but the big problem is the run out on the drill press... WOW, I never realized how much there was until I put an end mill in. I really want a mill, but I would like one a little bigger than a table top, but I've got no use for a 4 x 36 Bridgeport.

[4ever3]

OK, here are some more.

Squaring the bolsters.


I've got the solder layed out and flux put on and ready to tin the liners


Solder is tinned and the bolster soldered on.



Bolsters are rough ground, going to lay out the file work and file it tomorrow.



Once again, if I left anything out, let me know

[jonet143]

great post 4ever3. keep em coming, pics and naration, not lacerations. wash the cut then glue!

[orvet]

Looks good. Nice job of soldering the bolsters.
What made you choose soldering the bolsters instead of pinning them on?

Just curious,
Dale

[Hukk]

Looks good. Nice job of soldering the bolsters.
What made you choose soldering the bolsters instead of pinning them on?

Just curious,
Dale

I like to use a low temperature silver solder also. Better adhesion, nothing gets under the bolster that would cause corrosion. The only bolsters I've seen pinned on have been fixed blades, but I haven't done much on folders, just new and very little repair. I don't have a lot of experience with repairing old pocket knives so I've never seen a pinned bolster on them. But, on the new ones, I much prefer the soldered bolster, done right it doesn't get any stronger.

[4ever3]

Looks good. Nice job of soldering the bolsters.
What made you choose soldering the bolsters instead of pinning them on?

Just curious,
Dale

I like to use a low temperature silver solder also. Better adhesion, nothing gets under the bolster that would cause corrosion. But, on the new ones, I much prefer the soldered bolster, done right it doesn't get any stronger.

What Hukk said Dale. There isn't anything to add


Thanks Johnnie !

[Gunsmoke47]

This is a great post 4ever3! I don't even work with knives....(yet).... and I am enjoying your step by step! Thank you, Smoke

[gringo]

thanks 4ever3,
i am enjoyig the topic also...

the few folding knives i have worked on are all pinned bolsters...besides hukk's comment...right on... i think the knife would be stronger if the bolsters (bearings) don't float around...

[4ever3]

Thank you for the comments fellas !


Here's the file work in progress.



And a couple of shots after it's done, well, half done, one side is finished, ran out of time to do the other side, gonna do it tomorrow.

[4ever3]

Well, the file work is done and I'm at a stopping point, I'm waiting on a stamp I have ordered, but as soon as I get it in and work starts back up I'll start with the pics again.

[Hukk]

What are you going to stamp? Liner lightly, don't crease it, blade is already hardened will break the stamp.

[4ever3]

Going to stamp the inside of the liner lightly, no where else to stamp, and besides that the dern stamp is expensive

[Hukk]

Sometimes Siskabob on eBay has stamps for $15.95 up to 15 letters, I have 3 in 3 different sizes. None listed now, but keep an eye out, good deal for the price. Under $25 to your door!
They are heat treated.
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrp ... FSQ3aMESOI

[trlrider77]

Trapper is looking good. I really enjoy the step by step you guys post.

[4ever3]

Well, after Thursday night Friday night and most of the day today, here she is.

MOP is attached.


Stamped and numbered.


Shield is installed and ready to be pinned.


Still a little hand finishing to do, but she is in my pocket now.

[jonet143]

beautiful, 4ever3! what did you use to cut the shield inlay?

[johnnierotten]

Great job!!

[Hukk]

Looks great! Nice job on the prearl! Careful with the MEK, ketones are rough on the brain cells. Nice job on the pinned inlay, I'm curious which tool you used on the inlay also. Dremel, air tool or the fast air tool - the turbo carver? Whichever, you did a nice job!

[4ever3]

Thanks fellas ! I cut the shield in with a 1/16" end mill in the drill press.





Yes Hukk, MEK is bad JUJU, but I use it very little, and only when the resperator is on me face.

[orvet]

Nice job, especially in the inlay.

Dale