Opinions needed

[Forensic Jim]

Ole Dave Shirley, the owner of Northwoods Knives sent me four prototypes of some fixed blade knives that he asked me to post and get some opinions on before he decides to put them into production or not. There are three small fixed blades that are 6 1/4" long and the last knife is 7 1/2" in length. The all have different wood handles and will come with sheaths. The smaller knife is very thin and reminds me of a trout knife.

[lenny357]

Like them! Trout knives yes and real popular in the Japanese market also. Looks like that style is popular everywhere http://www.youwantit2.com/GSAKAI.html all out of stock.

[Ringmaster]

G'morning Jim,

The profile and construction looks like a dozen and one other companies, to me. Case, Western, Kabar, everybody's made the Little Finn version at one time or another. The pinned pommels look just like a Western or Queen.

The grind lines are extremely plain vanilla, also. At least put a swedge or false edge on the top. I dunno, those blades just look "unfinished" to me.

And the solder job on the red handled one looks like it was made in high school shop class.

Depending on the type of steel, I might pay $25 retail for one. If they'd finish polishing the blade that is.

That's just MY opinion, of course.

JR

[mikek]

Ths small Finn is the kind of knife that you either like or dislike. Even though I own a few they make far better letter openers than field dressing tools for deer. It seems thay have a limited purpose but if I had the 3rd one down in my hand at a show Id be taking it home Northwoods could sell box cutters and people would buy them !! Mikek

[muskrat man]

that trout knife gts a thumbs up for me

[Sauconian]

Don't hunt any more, catch and release fisherman, index finger works for mail, and too small for a bread knife.

Tell 'em to try a little scout/utility with pinched & threaded bolsters, stag, bark ivory, and send it to me to get opinions.

[Ringmaster]

Giggggggling !

Fran, you're a NUT ! (And that's meant as high praise).

JR

[tank]

Jim I really like the 7" especially with the light wood. I have a couple of the Queen made trout knives, one is Robeson the other a Moore Maker. Never cleaned a trout but they work well on rabbit and squirrel.
Are they D2, 1095 or Stainless?

[Forensic Jim]

Those are 1095 Anthony.

[Hukk]

I need more time to think about it. As they stand, I would not purchase. A change in pommel (both knives less metal maybe better) and forward facing guard, I don't really like it. I look at the last knife and think change to a drop point but every custom maker out there is making them. I need to think on it.

[Hukk]

The second one reminds me in some ways of a Puukko, it's that handle, round with no charactor and the pommel is a distraction.

I'm not trying to slam the knife by any means, trying to figure out why I don't care for it in an honest opinion. It seems to start from the guard back for me.

[Forensic Jim]

Hukk, No offense taken. Dave just wants to find out what peoples opinions are on these knives good or bad.

[Ringmaster]

Yeah, me either Jim,

They're just too plain, to get me excited - and the field is already crowded with those patterns. In my correctable opinion.

JR

[testcase]

I can't tell without having one in my hand... Please forward any but the red one!
Might make a decent boot knife, I like a smaller fixed blade to stick on the top of my boot when I ride my horses for quick access like a tangled lead line or something.

I agree with some about the shape of the pommels, wouldn't be my first choice, but I would be glad to give them a real world trial.

[gmusic]

Boring.............................

I have to side with Ringmaster...........Everyone and their brother makes one of these.

And with Hukk..............Who put that guard on upside down?

Stick with the folders..................in limited numbers, JMO.

[okbohn]

I actually kind of like the last one--but it is not very exciting.

[Hukk]

No, some bird and trout knives have a forward guard, I just don't favor them. I do see potential in the Bird and Trout. Things like a ferrule or bolster in place of the guard. For the handle make it thicker and taper it thicker up near the butt and use a butt cap in place of the pommel. Make the handle thick enough to cut a finger groove just behind a ferrule. Also more flare in the blade. I think that if bolsters are used then that would allow for even more flare in the blade but then you're looking at a full tang.

Uh, I just redesigned the whole thing didn't I.

I didn't mean to do that. Actually I have drawing out in the shop a rough scetch, let me see if I can find it tomorow. Then I can show what I'm trying to say.

[Ringmaster]

Hey now !

Always thinking Hukk may have hit on something, there. Take out the clip, make it either a sodbuster style blade or a slight drop. Change the guard to a bolster, make a full tang out of it (it's already got the handle slabs), taper the tang, delete the pommel, stay with 1095, and I'll buy one. Put it in a horizontal belt sheath, so that it's not in the way. Small and light. I LIKE that idea !

I've got a bird & trout drawn somewhere. Somewhere....

JR

[Sauconian]

Hmmmm.......24 hours and 10 unique responders.

Nobody liked the red one, and the others with different wood, were too innocuous to comment on except by MM, who would probably file work it and put on elk stag.

There seems to be interest in the last.....if it were redesigned into a totally different knife.

Could it be made about 3 1/4 - 3 1/2", long pull spear with swedge, can opener........oh, never mind....I'm just an amature with too much spare time. The protos will bring good money.
Fran

[orvet]

G'morning Jim,

The profile and construction looks like a dozen and one other companies, to me. Case, Western, Kabar, everybody's made the Little Finn version at one time or another. The pinned pommels look just like a Western or Queen.

The grind lines are extremely plain vanilla, also. At least put a swedge or false edge on the top. I dunno, those blades just look "unfinished" to me.

And the solder job on the red handled one looks like it was made in high school shop class.

Depending on the type of steel, I might pay $25 retail for one. If they'd finish polishing the blade that is.

That's just MY opinion, of course.

JR

I'm with JR on this one. Plain vanilla seems to describe it pretty well.
The proportions on the blade seem wrong from the picture. I think if I were designing it I would shorten the blade about ¾” and put a deeper curve into the clip blade so that I had a very sharply pointed blade. A swedge grind would also help with that point. As someone who has cleaned more than his share of trout, the Little Finn pattern is one of my favorites for cleaning trout, but they need a good point on the end to pierce the sometimes tougher skin on the belly of the fish without ripping the skin. (This can be a problem in the summer time when the water is warmer).

I would also add a thumb ramp to the back of the blade. The thumb ramp is not used for the thumb but as a rest for the index finger, at least when you cleaning trout the way I do. I hold a knife loosely in my right hand, cutting edge up, with the spine of the blade just in front of the guard resting on my index finger. I hold the fish in my left hand and cut up the belly from the anus to the gills. On larger fish I make a V cut to remove the anus.

My all-time favorite trout knife is a Ka-Bar Little Finn. I bought one when I was in the Marine Corps, but left it lying beside a trout stream in the late 1970s. Apparently Ka-Bar stopped making that pattern for a number of years. I didn't get another one until the late 1990s.

A deeper grind on the clip, or a swedge would help keep the tip more pointed. That was in addition of the thumb ramp would add an interesting profile to the blade.

I also agree with JR about the solder job on the guard. Clean it up!

The birds head pommel, while a classic is very dated. The pommel on the second knife looks better, but if I were making the knife, I think I would flare out the wood of the handle for a better grip and finish it off with a butt cap of aluminum or perhaps horn.

As far as the handle goes, I agree: lose the red!
I love natural wood handles, but the handle on the second knife drives me crazy because of the pits in the wood. If I were buying a higher end knife, and not a second, I wouldn't touch it.

The wood on the second knife is better, but it to seems to have some spots towards the front that do not appear to be smooth. Also the grain of this wood leaves a great deal to be desired. I have burned better grained wood in my fireplace.

My choice for wood would be a darker well-grained wood like Babinga, Cocobolo or perhaps Wenge.

I think the knives definitely have possibility, but as they are they don't get me excited enough to reach for my wallet. I think $25 is about a good price as they are now. I might go $40 for the bottom knife if it had a good sheath.

The real upside on these is the choice of steel. 1095 is great stuff I love it! With a little bit of work they can really have something nice with these knives.

Just my opinion,
Dale