Mineral oil

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jmh58
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Mineral oil

Post by jmh58 »

Been going thru my knives and giving them a mineral oil bone treatment.. WOW!! Some of these bone handles were really dry as they sucked up the MO.. They got 2-3 more wipes!! John :D
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Bill DeShivs
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by Bill DeShivs »

Mineral oil softens bone and stag.
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by RogerH »

Speaking of Mineral Oil, I've read that it's fine to use as a joint lubricant especially if one uses a knife to cut or slice food products. So what's the concensus on using mineral oil as a general joint lubricant?
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by muskrat man »

RogerH wrote:Speaking of Mineral Oil, I've read that it's fine to use as a joint lubricant especially if one uses a knife to cut or slice food products. So what's the concensus on using mineral oil as a general joint lubricant?
I've never had any problems with it but I wash and clean my EDC's regularly so am constantly applying fresh oil to the joints. I can't say how well it will age.
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Bill DeShivs
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by Bill DeShivs »

Mineral oil works fine. It's the lubricant in WD 40.
Most lubricants use mineral oil as their base.
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TennesseeTime
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by TennesseeTime »

Anybody else use Lithium Grease to lubricate joints ?
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XxTestedxX
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by XxTestedxX »

Is there a preferred oil for preserving handles, and keeping them "healthy"

now I just apply ren wax here and there. But I have some lemon oil I was told does well for stag. id hate to damage these.
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by Colonel26 »

TennesseeTime wrote:Anybody else use Lithium Grease to lubricate joints ?
I don't like grease in my knife joints. I always used some kind of light machine oil like 3-in-One for years until coming here and learning of Quick Release. It is the end all be all of knife lubricarion.
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Bill DeShivs
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by Bill DeShivs »

I use lithium grease on some lever lock autos.
Stag doesn't contain oil naturally, and it doesn't need it when it's on a knife.
Use wax.
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by zp4ja »

Bill DeShivs wrote:I use lithium grease on some lever lock autos.
Stag doesn't contain oil naturally, and it doesn't need it when it's on a knife.
Use wax.
Hello Bill,

Not trying to be smart but stag does not include wax naturally either to my knowledge. Can you please provide more detail as to your recommendation. I appreciate your input.

Regards, Jerry
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by stumpstalker »

I am new to this site, and may have missed much on this topic. But, maintaining the condition of our knives would seem to me to be one of the most important matters we could be discussing.

It has been my understanding that too much oil softens fibrous natural materials, such as bone and wood, and will darken them; but, never applying any at all risks brittleness and cracking.

Here is what is said in LEVINE'S GUIDE TO KNIVES AND THEIR VALUES, 3rd Edition, page 31, on the broader topic of "Proper Cleaning". The author, Bernard L. Levine states:

"....Use these [cleaning] tools in conjunction with light non-drying non-staining oil such as Japanese sword oil. Japanese sword oil is made from Camellia flowers. It smells good and is good for your knives....Put a drop of oil in each joint of the knife. Wipe down the handles and the blades with a soft rag. Use a drop or two of oil on the rag..."

I could never locate Japanese sword oil, but have used LA-CO brand of light oil, described on the applicator bottle as an "ALL PURPOSE LUBRICATING OIL". It is very light-colored and has not perceptibly (to my eye) darkened handles.

After 15 years and with knives stored in rolls, no less, and subject to dramatic temperature changes, carbon steel blades that have had this treatment have remained rust free. No knife handles have cracked.

One expert has recommended a thin film of Simichrome polish as a protective coating; but, others warn that the abrasive inherent in the polish, however microscopic, can be problematic. I understand that some have had good results with Renaissance wax on knives and firearms.

The occasional and judicious light oiling routine has been practiced by me thus far, with no known deleterious effects. Have I done wrong; or could I be doing better?

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Re: Mineral oil

Post by jerryd6818 »

JMO..... What ever works for you and the "hey" with what others do, that's their business.
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by Bill DeShivs »

Wax seals the SURFACE of the stag. Apply it with a soft brush-to get in all the cracks, and use a shoe brush to polish it off.

Certainly, a little bit of oil won't hurt handles. But, I can bet that anyone here who works on knives has seen stag that has been softened and discolored by excess oil. It's impossible to oil a knife and not get some oil on the handles, but over-oiling or actually soaking in oil is bad for handles.

A light coat of oil is always good for steel parts.
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by muskrat man »

Bill DeShivs wrote:Wax seals the SURFACE of the stag. Apply it with a soft brush-to get in all the cracks, and use a shoe brush to polish it off.

Certainly, a little bit of oil won't hurt handles. But, I can bet that anyone here who works on knives has seen stag that has been softened and discolored by excess oil. It's impossible to oil a knife and not get some oil on the handles, but over-oiling or actually soaking in oil is bad for handles.

A light coat of oil is always good for steel parts.
I have seen some stag that was ruined by soaking in oil and/or trans fluid. But a light coat of lemon oil has revitalized a lot of old dry stag as well. Everything in moderation!

An old Sheffield cutler trick was to soak a knife in lemon oil that had to be taken apart to minimize the chance of cracking bone scales. I have used that trick before and it worked great.
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just bob
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by just bob »

In the old Ben Kelly knife repair book he recommends soaking the knife in linseed oil over night before attempting to take it apart so the bone can rehydrate and the blades lubricate. Then wash off with soap and warm water the next day. It's been mentioned on this site that not in the too distant past a knife was considered a tool and the instructions to care for it were intended for a tool. Now that knives are collectables there is an entire new school of thought and specialty products designed for the care of the pocket knife. Imagine what will be available in 10 years.
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by zp4ja »

Bill DeShivs wrote:Wax seals the SURFACE of the stag. Apply it with a soft brush-to get in all the cracks, and use a shoe brush to polish it off.

Certainly, a little bit of oil won't hurt handles. But, I can bet that anyone here who works on knives has seen stag that has been softened and discolored by excess oil. It's impossible to oil a knife and not get some oil on the handles, but over-oiling or actually soaking in oil is bad for handles.

A light coat of oil is always good for steel parts.
Bill,

Thanks much for the detailed response as to my inquiry/question. I will have to try that and maybe a light lemon oil treatment on some separate knives and compare results. I have a few really expensive stags that I prefer to find out on lesser value knives first.
Regards, Jerry
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by edge213 »

Where do you buy lemon oil?
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just bob
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by just bob »

I found some here at Menard's in the wood working section near the Minwax products
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Re: Mineral oil

Post by edge213 »

Thanks Bob
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