Mineral oil
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jmh58
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Mineral oil
Been going thru my knives and giving them a mineral oil bone treatment.. WOW!! Some of these bone handles were really dry as they sucked up the MO.. They got 2-3 more wipes!! John 
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Re: Mineral oil
Mineral oil softens bone and stag.
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RogerH
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Re: Mineral oil
Speaking of Mineral Oil, I've read that it's fine to use as a joint lubricant especially if one uses a knife to cut or slice food products. So what's the concensus on using mineral oil as a general joint lubricant?
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Re: Mineral oil
I've never had any problems with it but I wash and clean my EDC's regularly so am constantly applying fresh oil to the joints. I can't say how well it will age.RogerH wrote:Speaking of Mineral Oil, I've read that it's fine to use as a joint lubricant especially if one uses a knife to cut or slice food products. So what's the concensus on using mineral oil as a general joint lubricant?
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Re: Mineral oil
Mineral oil works fine. It's the lubricant in WD 40.
Most lubricants use mineral oil as their base.
Most lubricants use mineral oil as their base.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
Factory authorized repair for:
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- TennesseeTime
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Re: Mineral oil
Anybody else use Lithium Grease to lubricate joints ?
- XxTestedxX
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Re: Mineral oil
Is there a preferred oil for preserving handles, and keeping them "healthy"
now I just apply ren wax here and there. But I have some lemon oil I was told does well for stag. id hate to damage these.
now I just apply ren wax here and there. But I have some lemon oil I was told does well for stag. id hate to damage these.
- Colonel26
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Re: Mineral oil
I don't like grease in my knife joints. I always used some kind of light machine oil like 3-in-One for years until coming here and learning of Quick Release. It is the end all be all of knife lubricarion.TennesseeTime wrote:Anybody else use Lithium Grease to lubricate joints ?
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Re: Mineral oil
I use lithium grease on some lever lock autos.
Stag doesn't contain oil naturally, and it doesn't need it when it's on a knife.
Use wax.
Stag doesn't contain oil naturally, and it doesn't need it when it's on a knife.
Use wax.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
Factory authorized repair for:
Latama
Mauro Mario
LePre
Colonial
KABAR
Hubertus, Grafrath, Ritter
Schrade Cut. Co., Geo Schrade, Pressbutton, Flylock
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Puma
Burrell Cutlery
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Latama
Mauro Mario
LePre
Colonial
KABAR
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- zp4ja
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Re: Mineral oil
Hello Bill,Bill DeShivs wrote:I use lithium grease on some lever lock autos.
Stag doesn't contain oil naturally, and it doesn't need it when it's on a knife.
Use wax.
Not trying to be smart but stag does not include wax naturally either to my knowledge. Can you please provide more detail as to your recommendation. I appreciate your input.
Regards, Jerry
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- stumpstalker
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Re: Mineral oil
I am new to this site, and may have missed much on this topic. But, maintaining the condition of our knives would seem to me to be one of the most important matters we could be discussing.
It has been my understanding that too much oil softens fibrous natural materials, such as bone and wood, and will darken them; but, never applying any at all risks brittleness and cracking.
Here is what is said in LEVINE'S GUIDE TO KNIVES AND THEIR VALUES, 3rd Edition, page 31, on the broader topic of "Proper Cleaning". The author, Bernard L. Levine states:
"....Use these [cleaning] tools in conjunction with light non-drying non-staining oil such as Japanese sword oil. Japanese sword oil is made from Camellia flowers. It smells good and is good for your knives....Put a drop of oil in each joint of the knife. Wipe down the handles and the blades with a soft rag. Use a drop or two of oil on the rag..."
I could never locate Japanese sword oil, but have used LA-CO brand of light oil, described on the applicator bottle as an "ALL PURPOSE LUBRICATING OIL". It is very light-colored and has not perceptibly (to my eye) darkened handles.
After 15 years and with knives stored in rolls, no less, and subject to dramatic temperature changes, carbon steel blades that have had this treatment have remained rust free. No knife handles have cracked.
One expert has recommended a thin film of Simichrome polish as a protective coating; but, others warn that the abrasive inherent in the polish, however microscopic, can be problematic. I understand that some have had good results with Renaissance wax on knives and firearms.
The occasional and judicious light oiling routine has been practiced by me thus far, with no known deleterious effects. Have I done wrong; or could I be doing better?
Russell
It has been my understanding that too much oil softens fibrous natural materials, such as bone and wood, and will darken them; but, never applying any at all risks brittleness and cracking.
Here is what is said in LEVINE'S GUIDE TO KNIVES AND THEIR VALUES, 3rd Edition, page 31, on the broader topic of "Proper Cleaning". The author, Bernard L. Levine states:
"....Use these [cleaning] tools in conjunction with light non-drying non-staining oil such as Japanese sword oil. Japanese sword oil is made from Camellia flowers. It smells good and is good for your knives....Put a drop of oil in each joint of the knife. Wipe down the handles and the blades with a soft rag. Use a drop or two of oil on the rag..."
I could never locate Japanese sword oil, but have used LA-CO brand of light oil, described on the applicator bottle as an "ALL PURPOSE LUBRICATING OIL". It is very light-colored and has not perceptibly (to my eye) darkened handles.
After 15 years and with knives stored in rolls, no less, and subject to dramatic temperature changes, carbon steel blades that have had this treatment have remained rust free. No knife handles have cracked.
One expert has recommended a thin film of Simichrome polish as a protective coating; but, others warn that the abrasive inherent in the polish, however microscopic, can be problematic. I understand that some have had good results with Renaissance wax on knives and firearms.
The occasional and judicious light oiling routine has been practiced by me thus far, with no known deleterious effects. Have I done wrong; or could I be doing better?
Russell
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Re: Mineral oil
JMO..... What ever works for you and the "hey" with what others do, that's their business.
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- Bill DeShivs
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Re: Mineral oil
Wax seals the SURFACE of the stag. Apply it with a soft brush-to get in all the cracks, and use a shoe brush to polish it off.
Certainly, a little bit of oil won't hurt handles. But, I can bet that anyone here who works on knives has seen stag that has been softened and discolored by excess oil. It's impossible to oil a knife and not get some oil on the handles, but over-oiling or actually soaking in oil is bad for handles.
A light coat of oil is always good for steel parts.
Certainly, a little bit of oil won't hurt handles. But, I can bet that anyone here who works on knives has seen stag that has been softened and discolored by excess oil. It's impossible to oil a knife and not get some oil on the handles, but over-oiling or actually soaking in oil is bad for handles.
A light coat of oil is always good for steel parts.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
Factory authorized repair for:
Latama
Mauro Mario
LePre
Colonial
KABAR
Hubertus, Grafrath, Ritter
Schrade Cut. Co., Geo Schrade, Pressbutton, Flylock
Falcon/AKC/AGA Campolin
Puma
Burrell Cutlery
Factory authorized repair for:
Latama
Mauro Mario
LePre
Colonial
KABAR
Hubertus, Grafrath, Ritter
Schrade Cut. Co., Geo Schrade, Pressbutton, Flylock
Falcon/AKC/AGA Campolin
Puma
Burrell Cutlery
- muskrat man
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Re: Mineral oil
I have seen some stag that was ruined by soaking in oil and/or trans fluid. But a light coat of lemon oil has revitalized a lot of old dry stag as well. Everything in moderation!Bill DeShivs wrote:Wax seals the SURFACE of the stag. Apply it with a soft brush-to get in all the cracks, and use a shoe brush to polish it off.
Certainly, a little bit of oil won't hurt handles. But, I can bet that anyone here who works on knives has seen stag that has been softened and discolored by excess oil. It's impossible to oil a knife and not get some oil on the handles, but over-oiling or actually soaking in oil is bad for handles.
A light coat of oil is always good for steel parts.
An old Sheffield cutler trick was to soak a knife in lemon oil that had to be taken apart to minimize the chance of cracking bone scales. I have used that trick before and it worked great.
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- just bob
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Re: Mineral oil
In the old Ben Kelly knife repair book he recommends soaking the knife in linseed oil over night before attempting to take it apart so the bone can rehydrate and the blades lubricate. Then wash off with soap and warm water the next day. It's been mentioned on this site that not in the too distant past a knife was considered a tool and the instructions to care for it were intended for a tool. Now that knives are collectables there is an entire new school of thought and specialty products designed for the care of the pocket knife. Imagine what will be available in 10 years.
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- zp4ja
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Re: Mineral oil
Bill,Bill DeShivs wrote:Wax seals the SURFACE of the stag. Apply it with a soft brush-to get in all the cracks, and use a shoe brush to polish it off.
Certainly, a little bit of oil won't hurt handles. But, I can bet that anyone here who works on knives has seen stag that has been softened and discolored by excess oil. It's impossible to oil a knife and not get some oil on the handles, but over-oiling or actually soaking in oil is bad for handles.
A light coat of oil is always good for steel parts.
Thanks much for the detailed response as to my inquiry/question. I will have to try that and maybe a light lemon oil treatment on some separate knives and compare results. I have a few really expensive stags that I prefer to find out on lesser value knives first.
Regards, Jerry
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Re: Mineral oil
Where do you buy lemon oil?
David
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- just bob
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Re: Mineral oil
I found some here at Menard's in the wood working section near the Minwax products
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