Gerber scale

edgy46 · Post by **edgy46** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 11:58 pm

Recently bought a Gerber folder 4 1/2 in closed brass frame with wood inserts. One side insert was loose,now off.Will thick crazy glue do a good job? Knife will be sold,so I do not want this to to be a looks only repair.

knife7knut · Post by **knife7knut** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:47 am

If you want it to stay on permanently,use JB Weld.Available in small quantities in most hardware stores.After making sure the surface is clean,give it a wash with isopropyl(rubbing)alcohol and wipe dry.It evaporates pretty rapidly anyway.

As the handles are a tight fit,you don't need to mix up a whole lot.Mix as per instructions;apply to knife and insert handle.Wipe any excess adhesive away with mineral spirits before it sets.You also might want to clamp the handle down until it is set.Guarantee it won't EVER come off!

Duffy · Post by **Duffy** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 1:24 am

Epoxy glue works well also. Just mix up a little bit, put it on the back of the scale (handle) that came off. Then put the scale back on the knife like it was before it came off and square it up, then clamp it down solid . whipe all extra glue away with a soapy wet wash cloth. Next day, remove the clamp and any missed epoxy glue that you may have nissed. It won't come off again under almost any job you use it for, unless it is really abused with intentions of trying to get it to come off. Try it you might like it. Almost any hardware or auto parts stores carry it and it doesn't cost a arm or a leg. Good luck, and drop us a line telling us what you used and how it worked out.

Hukk · Post by **Hukk** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:02 am

Stay away from Devcon 2 hr, 5min, or whatever. In comprehensive tests it had a bad track record for metal to wood adhesion. The best is Acraglas bedding compound. DO NOT use the Gel.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ ... spx?p=1033
I do use it, but it's expensive for one knife as is the Loctite adhesives with Accelorators. I also use K&G 2 part epoxy, but watch the mix ratio and again the cost. It's great because I get powdered dyes and can make it the color I want.

Try to find a 24 hour epoxy, make sure it's room temperature when you use it and make sure it cures at room temperature, not the garage. JB Weld is decent for wood to metal, but not the quick dry and watch the color.

edgy46 · Post by **edgy46** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:16 pm

Thanks to Knife7knut,Duffy and Hukk for your advice.I will try the JB weld as I have some,now I just have to find it.I will let you know how it turns out.I have been out of work since early Oct,and although we are doing fine,I sure miss my weekly knife money.I hope to sell this one at a flea market this Sat.I was thinking about pricing it at 40 dollars.It is a good knife from a good name.Any suggestions will be welcomed.It is in great condition.It was bought to sell,as it did not talk to me

edgy46 · Post by **edgy46** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:27 am

This morning I gave up looking and bought some JBweld.The repair went well.After eight hours I took the clamps off,and it looks fine, just like the other side.THANKS for the info.

Hukk · Post by **Hukk** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:07 am

Glad it went well. I forgot about the Polyuretane type adhesives.

Gorrilla Glue and Sumo Glue, Dale will correct me on that last one if I got it wrong.

Anyway, it's not expensive and realize that all glues have some sort of shelf life and SHOULD be on the label. Some have a shelf life of a few months and others may be 50 years.

Polyuretane type adhesive is usually applied to one side and the other part will just be dunked in water. Gorilla Glue, I hear will foam up much more than Sumo. There are instructions to remove exess glue on Gorilla Glue and it has a very high contact rating for a wood to metal adhesion, higher than JB WELD which will work just fine.