Anyone up for a celluloid experiment ?

Sauconian · Post by **Sauconian** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:28 am

I've read a lot about the breakdown of this material, and the problems it causes, and up to now have just avoided having it. But now I've got a C.F.Wolfertz jack coming with candycane covers that I just couldn't resist.

This has had me to wondering if totally sealing the cell might prevent the problem. Do any of you fellows have some old cell around to try coating with clear epoxy ? If the epoxy could cure without reacting badly with the cell, someone might come up with a way to preserve some beautiful and historic knives.

Maybe just another dumb idea from an inexhaustable source.

Fran

Rupe · Post by **Rupe** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 3:40 am

Fran,
I have access to and the ability to coat just about anything with some of the highest quality automotive grade polyurethane clear coat finishes on the market. Let me know what you need and I'd be happy to shoot 'em for ya. (The same brand of finish used on McDermott cues, Porsche, and other high end vehicles)

Check out the "Its all Phil's fault" thread I posted in the new member introduction forum for a sample of my stuff.

Chris

jonet143 · Post by **jonet143** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 4:40 am

will encasing the whole handle, front and back stop the out gassing(no oxigen?) or trap the gas? cell can react violently under the right(wrong?) conditions. very interesting. an interesting test. would have to be a light coat for size.

Sauconian · Post by **Sauconian** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 11:52 am

Chris, Thanks for the offer. I'm not looking to have anything done for myself, but just suggesting an experiment for someone with the materials and interest. Poly is another good thought though.

Johnnie, You're following my line of thinking. There is an extensive article about this subject somewhere on the web. If I recall it may have been in Knife World. The author tried sealing with oil or wax, but apparently on the knife, so it would not be a permanent or complete seal. I think the holes for the pins would have to be enlarged some before coating, and then drilled out to proper size for reassemble. If cell is as volatile as suggested, it should probably be tried outdoors with a fire extinguisher handy, in case the heat of the epoxy ' kicking over' causes combustion.

It just seems a shame that a large piece of 50 years worth of cutlery history may someday be reduced to pictures in a book.

Fran

Rupe · Post by **Rupe** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:00 pm

No problem Fran,
I'm always up for a little experimenting. If anyone has some old broken celluloid and would like to try coating it, I'm still game. I just don't have any myself.

Chris

justold52 · Post by **justold52** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 4:18 pm

Here is some real good info you mite read.
I hope this helps some.

http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... 63&start=0

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 6:27 pm

Here is some good info on the OKCA web site.
http://www.oregonknifeclub.org/celluloid_02.html

Dale

Sauconian · Post by **Sauconian** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 10:43 pm

Thanks Dale, that's the article I was refering to in my previous post.

Fran

knife-nut · Post by **knife-nut** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 11:16 pm

I was digging in my shop last night, and noticed a sheet of new candy cane celluloid looked wet. I touched the moisture and smelled it. Acid!! It is already sweating. That sheet is going to the trash. I've had a knife rehandled in new celluloid only to have it start gassing in less than a year. I wish someone could make some acrilics that looks like old candy cane or christmas tree celluloid. It would be a lot safer to use on a restoration.

Hukk · Post by **Hukk** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 3:02 am

I know Masecraft makes both celluloids and they have been working with Casein and other materials. I know they have a line of “Jungle” polyester bar and rod materials in several patterns including Jungle Camouflage, Cheetah, Snow Leopard and Zebra.

Seems like they are close to making a colored striped material. Maybe if the got enough requests.

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 3:08 am

Sounds feasible if it doesn't let the gasses build up underneath the clearcoat. Anyone know of a place where I can get yellow acrylic, like the old case yellow celluloid?

Hukk · Post by **Hukk** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 3:45 am

Only Acrylic I've seen has swirls. I have seen yellow Corian, I don't know how hard that material is though.

Rupe · Post by **Rupe** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 9:15 pm

Hukk wrote:Only Acrylic I've seen has swirls. I have seen yellow Corian, I don't know how hard that material is though.

Hukk,

Corian is an absolute joy to work with. Theres a knife maker over at BladeForums that uses Corian on his fixed blades. Goes by NWA.

I've done some playing around with Corian. I had a couple 4"X4" samples so I turned these out:

Made 'em for my 1911 a couple years ago (before I got a good digital camera).

Corian is much easier sanding than Micarta. Polishes up nice too. Be warned though, Corian dust is bad Ju-Ju. Wear a respirator when monkeying with it.

Chris

All About Pocket Knives

Anyone up for a celluloid experiment ?

Anyone up for a celluloid experiment ?

anyone up for a celluloid ex.