D2 or 1095

Sketch · Post by **Sketch** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 6:07 pm

Hi everyone,

I know this subject has been addressed a lot, but I wanted to get your opinion on a hypothetical situation. Lets say a company like Queen is going to produce your favorite knife pattern in your favorite handle material. Which blade steel would you prefer if the choices were D2 or 1095? Your not planning on having this knife as collectors piece, but plan on caring it and giving it some use. I would like to hear some of your reasons why you would desire that type of steel.

I tend to like 1095 because of its ease of sharpening. I also like the patina factor on this type of steel as well. I have never tried to sharpen D2 and would like to hear from others if it is really a pain compared to 1095 or not.

Has anyone had problems with their D2 blade chipping?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Matt

jonet143 · Post by **jonet143** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 6:19 pm

i have a ring turn in d-2. one of the best blade steels for use i have. holds edge very well. i have no problem sharpening it(only toutched it up so far) chipping?

okbohn · Post by **okbohn** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 8:50 pm

I prefer the D2, but with some caviats

It is more difficult to sharpen--X3 in my opinion
It holds an edge much better than Ontario 1095--at least X2 or 3
You don't have to worry about chipping if you use a finely polished edge. If you leave it rough, it will chip or tear out.

Sketch · Post by **Sketch** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 9:40 pm

I thought I've heard in the past that D2 steel was more brittle and the blade had a tendency to chip easier. After doing a bit more research it seems that everyone really likes D2 and it isn't much of a problem. Do you use diamond stones or rods to sharpen D2? Would I be ok with my Spyderco Sharpmaker? It sounds like stropping before it gets dull is the key.

Matt

MITCH RAPP · Post by **MITCH RAPP** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:34 am

I have never heard of anyone complaining about D2 chipping, I have

however, heard many complaints about SV30 having a tendecy to chip.

Hukk · Post by **Hukk** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:03 pm

Most of the time when steels chip it is because the the steel itself was improperly heat treated and/or improperly tempered down to it's optimum range. Just because a steel can be hardened to 65Rc or even 67Rc after heat treat (quench for some and very brittle at this stage) doesn't mean that tempering down to 60-62Rc is the right think to do, it can still be brittle. D2 with high carbon (~1.4%) and high chromium (11-13%) and a little bit of Vanadium (1%), is going to be a good hard steel, good edge retention and more difficult to sharpen, AND I like it as I do 1095, no chromium and ~.95% carbon is going to sharpen like butter BUT can still hold a good edge with modern heat treating methods. CPM S30V is high carbon (over 2%) and high chromium (14%) and high Vanadium (4%), is going to be a really good hard steel, good edge retention and more difficult to sharpen than 1095, AND I like it also.

These are 3 of my favorite steels and like everything else, if you go beyond a reasonable range of hardness while heat treating, expect the worst. There are some very good heat treaters out there, one through K&G (D'Holder), Texas Knife Suply and many others. 1095 is a relatively simple steel compared to S 30V and D2. Any steel can chip, poor grinds will add to misery.

Hukk · Post by **Hukk** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 1:54 am

Dang

all that and I don't even answer the question.

The only blade I've chipped came from my own abuse of the knife and it was none of these steels. I like D2 and I just use large Arkansas bench stones to sharpen (sometimes a carborundom man made stone). I will touch up my knives quite often, always after use. I like D2 because I can quarter a Bull Elk without having to stop for sharpening and it's still sharp enough for camp chores. I always bring stones and a leather strop on every trip, while BS'ing at down time, I can sharpen my blade back to razor sharp.

No excuse to carry a dull blade.

D2 is nearly stainless (chromium content barely to low) and a great tool steel for knives. I would go with D2 because of edge retention and I can sharpen it quickly using a carborundom (sp) stone before the Arkansas stone, making sure I get a nice smooth edge.

The only way to find out what is right for you is to use these steels and find out what fits you best.

Sketch · Post by **Sketch** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 5:03 am

Thanks everyone for your input. Hukk, I appreciate your knowledge on the subject. I plan on buying a Queen knife in D2 to give it a try.

Thanks again,

Matt