Polish a Jacknife's Handles Without Removal?

[flangster]

Here is a nice little Cattaraugus jack knife that I received recently. It is not winning any beauty contests (unless you like the look of a well-used tool, which I do). I am thinking about the handles. Maybe replacing them, maybe sanding the current wood ones smooth. Any downside to starting off by light sanding of the handles to smooth things up, with the handles still on the knife? I have picked out a knife as the first -- take- it-apart project, but it probably isn't this one. This knife traveled part of the week in my pocket. Blades take an edge easily -- it is quite serviceable.

What if the knife had synthetic handles like a Camillus TL-29? What's the preferred method for smoothing those out? Buffing with a dremmel? 1000 grit wet/dry paper?

[orvet]

I would try 3M Polishing Paper.
Use 400, 600 and then 1200 grits.
It leaves a much finer scratch pattern than sandpaper and it would have it looking great in short order.
I think Jantz Supply carries it as well as several other suppliers.

[TripleF]

Personally, I would "maybe" clean it with some wood cleaner/polish. Other than that I love 'er the way she is.
It's a gem "AS IS" in my opnion!

[FRJ]

I don't think you can improve on that old warrior very much by sanding it. Dales suggestion will spruce it up some, no doubt, but I would suggest first packing it for a while and see what a good bit of pocket time will do for the wood and bolsters. It may surprise you. I would suggest not removing the handles.

[0078]

I don't think you can improve on that old warrior very much by sanding it. Dales suggestion will spruce it up some, no doubt, but I would suggest first packing it for a while and see what a good bit of pocket time will do for the wood and bolsters. It may surprise you. I would suggest not removing the handles.

I agree, the knife is full of history? Keep it original.

[Elvis]

Do yourself a favor and keep the Dremel away from the synthetic handles on the TL-29. It's way too easy to eat away too much Delrin (or any other plastic) due to the high speed of the Dremel no matter the tool you choose even on it's lowest speed. 1000 grit and higher would work if you finish with at least a 1500 grit and the work is all done by hand. After that, a nice hand polishing with Flitz, Semichrome or some other very fine polish will bring back it's shine.

You've gotten some great advice on the wooden handles, but in the past I've spruced up wooden handles like the ones on the first knife pictured by first using the fine side of those black emery boards (sold in the make-up section of any grocery store) until the offending scratches are gone, then finished it off with the 1000 and 1500 grit wet/dry until the shine comes back. From there you can use the Flitz again to finish polishing the shield and bolsters. I'm not saying that one method works better than another. I just know what has worked for me and power tools aren't the answer.

[flangster]

Do yourself a favor and keep the Dremel away from the synthetic handles on the TL-29. It's way too easy to eat away too much Delrin (or any other plastic) due to the high speed of the Dremel no matter the tool you choose even on it's lowest speed. 1000 grit and higher would work if you finish with at least a 1500 grit and the work is all done by hand. After that, a nice hand polishing with Flitz, Semichrome or some other very fine polish will bring back it's shine.

You've gotten some great advice on the wooden handles, but in the past I've spruced up wooden handles like the ones on the first knife pictured by first using the fine side of those black emery boards (sold in the make-up section of any grocery store) until the offending scratches are gone, then finished it off with the 1000 and 1500 grit wet/dry until the shine comes back. From there you can use the Flitz again to finish polishing the shield and bolsters. I'm not saying that one method works better than another. I just know what has worked for me and power tools aren't the answer.

Thanks for the practical advice Elvis. You have probably saved me some heartache right there. I'm waffling on the wooden handles. I have a knife though that is Imperial's version of the Camillus TL-29: sort of like a thinner version with maroon handles. I think I will try out your advice on its Delrin handles . . . when you see "before" pictures on that one you will see that it is low hanging fruit for some quick attention. I have some 1000 and 2000 wet/dry paper . . . I can cut a one inch strip and go slow. There is some dried gunk on the blades . . adhesive? Paint? A little Flitz and elbow grease should clear that right up.

[Dinadan]

I have some 1000 and 2000 wet/dry paper . . . I can cut a one inch strip and go slow. There is some dried gunk on the blades . . adhesive? Paint? A little Flitz and elbow grease should clear that right up.

When I am working on a small item like a pocket knife with curved surfaces I use a one or two inch square of sandpaper and put double sided or folded duct tape on the back side of the paper, then stick it to my thumb or palm. If I am working on something really small I do the same thing to the item and stick it to the other hand so I am not always dropping it.

[OldGoat]

flangster,

I suggest that before you go the material removal treatment that you try a method I have used successfully on some knives and mostly on military stocks, in particular my M1 Garands. Unless the wood is so bad that stripping with oven cleaner and a total refinish is required, here is what I do:

Treat the wood liberally with Formby's Furniture Refinisher, using a bit of 0000 steel wool to take the edge off of hard scratches/gouges and remove the "fuzzies" followed by lots of cloth rubbing with more Formby's. This lightens the wood slightly and brings out the grain while leaving things mostly intact. Often the absorbtion of the refinisher will raise the wood slightly and reveal formerly indistinct cartouches as well.

I hope this suggestion helps.

Regards,
Russell

P.S. Sorry no pics at the moment as the room with the safes is literally inaccessible due to lots of screen doors covered in drying peppers and, of course, stuff waiting to be wrapped for the big day next week.