Anyone Collect Axes & Hatchets?

[Miller Bro's]

Yes, and their throwing axe is world famous

[vikingdog]

I'm not familiar with Case axes. Here's one on ebay, not a very good photo but it looks like a nice one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-CaseXX- ... 4ace3f7914

[vikingdog]

Here's a really good film about logging in Maine in 1930. These guys started their day with breakfast at 4 am, had two lunches and dinner in the evening. They must have worked at least 12 hour days.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIKCjQdxtO0[/youtube]

[dx313]

Glad to see everyone else's pictures of their axes and hatchets!
I've been collecting for about a year now, and my wife seems to think that I have a problem, haha. Here are some pictures of most of my collection. Most of these have been restored by me, some are works in progress, and some have not been started. If you would like to see any close up pictures, let me know.

[vikingdog]

You're off to a good start dx! Some nice looking pieces there, can you list them by name? What have you had to do to restore them? I have been working on a Keen Kutter Jersey pattern this afternoon. The poll was smashed down pretty bad, but I got it cheap...

[dx313]

You're off to a good start dx! Some nice looking pieces there, can you list them by name? What have you had to do to restore them? I have been working on a Keen Kutter Jersey pattern this afternoon. The poll was smashed down pretty bad, but I got it cheap...

Hatchet picture, from left to right:
Fulton, Plumb Boy Scout, Keen Kutter, Plumb Boy Scout, Plumb Boy Scout, Granfors Bruks

Axe picture, from left to right:
Council tool boy's axe, True Temper Kelly Perfect, no stamping, no stamping (possibly Collins?), Keen Kutter boy's axe, Collins Legitimus Jersey axe, no stamping, Plumb

Double bit picture from left to right:
Stanley, Collins, Collins

First thing I do is remove mushrooming (if any) on the single bits by sanding. I soak each head in vinegar for 24 hour cycles. Leave it in for 24 hours, take it out and wire brush, then another 24 hours. Generally do this 2-4 times depending on amount of rust.
I don't sand the entire head (just the parts that are mushroomed). I believe it adds character that you can still see the original pitting, as long as its not too deep. Some are so deeply pitted, that it isn't worth my time IMO. I generally sharpen each head next, first by file and then by puck stone.
Next, I go over the entire head again with a stainless wire brush, and then a fine scotch brite pad if the pitting is moderate. I then put a coat of gun blue, followed by a rinse and wipe down with fine steel wool, and repeat a second time.
Last step is to hang a handle, light sanding of the handle, two coats of linseed oil, then make a custom sheath for protection.

These may not be the best ways to do all of this, but I have found this to be my favorite method with the few tools that I have gotten so far. I really wish I had a large air compressor and a die grinder to wire brush and sand the handle with, but for now I will have to stick with my drill and the stainless brush attachment & circular sandpaper attachment.

Hope this helps!

Jared

[vikingdog]

You get great results! Do you have any "before" pictures? Any close up pics of the axe heads? I never thought of using gun bluing. You've got a nice collection for only being at it for a year.

[FRJ]

Hey dx, that's some pretty nice stuff there. Better than mine and more of it. I don't clean mine up much but its nice to know a good routine if I got one I wanted to spruce up. Say, maybe as a gift or something. I like the gun bluing part.
I'd like to see close up too, if you could. Thanks.

[dx313]

You get great results! Do you have any "before" pictures? Any close up pics of the axe heads? I never thought of using gun bluing. You've got a nice collection for only being at it for a year.

Here's a before and after picture of my favorite restoration. My father-in-law got this one from Canton, TX for $20.

Gun blue doesn't make it extremely dark, and as long as you put a thin coat of oil on it then it will generally keep it from rusting. The only exception to this rule would be if the head is moderately or heavily pitted. I use two different types of blue, but I really like the Brownell's Oxpho-Blue cause you don't have to rinse it under water.

[FRJ]

That's really nice. And nice to see a Collins. Collinsville, Connecticut is not far from me and I drive through there from time to time and always enjoy seeing the old factory on the river.

[vikingdog]

That's a good looking Legitimus Jared. Please keep posting your axes on this thread.

[vikingdog]

Here are some axes and a hatchet I picked up last weekend at the flea markets. For some reason it was a good week.

Jared, any chance of seeing some of your sheaths? I don't have a sheath for any of my axes and would like to figure out how to make some.

Joe, could you snap a picture of that Collins factory sometime?

From left to right:

Plumb

Collins Legitimus hatchet

Keen Kutter

Collins boys axe

unmarked

[dx313]

Mike,
Was that the Keen Kutter that you got cheap and were working on? That's a great find, even if the poll was smashed repeatedly with a hammer! Bit looks to be in really good shape, should be a good worker or wall hanger IMO.

Here are a few pictures of some sheaths I've made. By all means, I am no professional. However, I have found this to be the best looking and best protection with the limited tools that I have.

My dad has some basic leather working tools, i.e. a leather punch, haha. So we purchased some rivets, a river hammer, the rivet punches (not sure of the name), and some basic stamps.
We got some scrap leather off of Ebay. Place each head on the scrap leather, and determine where you want to cut out the outline of the head. I leave about an inch to 1/2 inch in order to accommodate for all of the rivets. I draw the outline for the first piece and cut it out, then outline the second piece (using the first piece) and cut the second piece out. Next, I stamp each side with a design, and then decide where all the rivets will go. Punch out the holes for the rivets, and then stamp them into place. Last, cut out a strap and put it on. Use a rivet on one side, a snap on the other.

There is probably a better way, but I personally enjoy this method.

[vikingdog]

Very nice Jared. I'm going to have to give it a try. The Keen Kutter is the one in the picture above. I paid $7 for it. It was in bad shape but I really like it and wanted to see what I could do with it.

[junebug]

GREAT FINDS GUYS!!!!!!!!!!

here is another quick way to make a hatchet sheath.......

i made this one with a old scrap belt from swap meet and paracord......
SCROLL DOWN A LIL IN LINK
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... 42&t=37658

[tjmurphy]

Now you've got me interested in Gransfors Bruks Dimitri. It's a very interesting company, they even have axe forging and log building classes there. http://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/

My son received a "small forest axe" for Christmas. Very impressive tool and very sharp. He does a lot of hiking but no camping yet so it hasn't been put to the test, but there's no doubt it will pass.

[dx313]

Here is some pictures of my latest project. It is a Plumb Boy Scout hatchet. When I got it, the bit and the poll was in rough shape. I wish I had some before pictures, but all I have is the after pictures.

The first picture is before hanging a handle, showing a few primary coats of gun blue.
The second picture is after hanging a handle.
The third picture is after 2 coats of linseed oil on the handle.
The last picture is a close up of the head, after final coats of gun blue.

Please feel free to post any comments. It isn't my best work, but it will do IMO.

[vikingdog]

Very nice hatchet and very nice work bringing it back. The Boy Scout axes and hatchets are really collectible. I still have by Scout axe from the 60s.

[Colonel26]

Here is some pictures of my latest project. It is a Plumb Boy Scout hatchet. When I got it, the bit and the poll was in rough shape. I wish I had some before pictures, but all I have is the after pictures.

The first picture is before hanging a handle, showing a few primary coats of gun blue.
The second picture is after hanging a handle.
The third picture is after 2 coats of linseed oil on the handle.
The last picture is a close up of the head, after final coats of gun blue.

Please feel free to post any comments. It isn't my best work, but it will do IMO.

It looks pretty darn good to me! Great job in fact!

[dx313]

Mike,

I know recently you asked for some before and after photos of some restorations. Here are some that I have made. The top shows the before picture, bottom shows the after picture. These pictures are after the vinegar and wire brush treatment, with some light sharpening (on some) and light touch ups (except for the first picture which shows the final product after blueing as well).

Also, I found a Kelly axe this weekend. Has anyone seen one similar to this one? I picked it up because I had never seen one like it.

[vikingdog]

Very nice Jared, I especially like the Stanley. Do you know what that pattern is or who made it?

[dx313]

This axe is by far my favorite that I have found so far. I've never seen one like it, and it was given to me by someone that I really look up to. It measures about 12.5" long from bit to bit, and each cutting edge is about 3". I'm currently restoring it, and it's got a little more pitting than I thought. Anyway, here are the pictures.

Jared

[Miller Bro's]

Wow! that`s a big boy

[vikingdog]

Very nice Puget Sound felling axe. I look forward to seeing it when it's finished.

[orvet]

Very nice Puget Sound felling axe. I look forward to seeing it when it's finished.

You nailed it Mike. They are common through out the Pacific Northwest, but in Oregon they are just called a falling or felling ax.
They were more common in the days when the big trees were fell with an ax and a misery whip (the 2 man cross cut saw).