What type files are used for working hardened steel?

Cinco0219 · Post by **Cinco0219** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 8:52 pm

Customized factory knives are what attracted me to this forum. Now that I've some of the fine examples displayed here I'm itching to try my hand at this. I have a basic question about tools, namely, what type of files are used to filework hardened steel blades? Does anybody use Dremels for working blades? Thanks, Cinco

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 9:24 pm

I usually try to avoid doing file work on a hardened blade, though I am sure it could be done with diamond files. I have used GOOD Nicholson files for working a heat treated back spring, but they are not as hard as the blades. Be prepared to spend real money for Nicholson files. I bought a 4" half round smooth the other day and paid over $10 for it. I have some older US made Simmonds that are good also. Make sure you buy US made files. I have tried some imports and they are junk. Even the ones made in Portugal won't hold a candle to the ones made in the USA.

I'd never use my Dremel for file work. By using a file I can go slowly and avoid mistakes. A Dremel, even on low-speed, removes material much more rapidly than a file. One slip with a Dremel and a $75 production knife that I was going to customize is now expensive garbage!

I think the number one ingredient in customizing knives is patience. If you don't have a lot of patience, you should not even begin think about getting into this hobby!

I hope this helps,
Dale

Cinco0219 · Post by **Cinco0219** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 9:44 pm

I've realized that mechanized material removal can lead to irrecoverable divots. It tends to make me shy from dremels but I had to ask.
I did notice quite a few knives in the forum that were file worked from spring to blade in a continuous pattern. Nice effect when the blade is opened fully.

jonet143 · Post by **jonet143** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:00 pm

dale makes a good point, don't waste your money on cheap files. most of the knife supply companys have high quality file sets made in u.s.a. they are'nt cheap. i have'nt had any trouble working hardened blades with good files. patience is the key.

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:36 pm

BTW Cinco,
Welcome to AAPK!

Cinco0219 · Post by **Cinco0219** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 12:27 am

Thanks, I think this is going to be all right!

agteacher2 · Post by **agteacher2** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:21 am

Hi Cinco and Welcome,

I use round oregon chain saw files for pretty much all of the file I do by hand. I find that to get a starting Knick in the blade is the hardest part. I usually do this with a dremel with an abrasive cutoff wheel. I prefer the oregon for the round file for two reasons, they are cheap, and they are not as brittle as the other files. I have broken to many high dollar files, I would rather bend a cheap one any day. I also use the Nicholson files in all sorts of other shapes.
Hope this helps,
Jeff
P.S. A golf ball drilled to fit the sharp end of the file makes a pretty darn good handle.

justold52 · Post by **justold52** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:46 am

Cinco0219; First welcome and nice to see you wanting to learn.

Here is a super sit to learn much and not make as many ERRORS.

I think Hukk has the right IDEA. He will tell you to buy a China made knife and practice on it first. Then if you make an ERROR just throw it away and buy one more China knife and practice again. After you fell you can move up to harder steel do it but practice on junk China stuff first.

Again Ask here first for help.

MM will tell you much too. He has moved up a lot in the last 6 mo.
He works on it very hard too.

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 2:41 am

Welcome aboard! Thanks for the words Ken. I use chainsaw files alot, the oregon brand like Jeff uses are my favorites as well. I have yet to find a file that will hold up to a blade. I trashed a brand new nicholson half round doing the lock bar and blade on a buck 110, I can't seem to find them in a single cut either, always double cut. I guess I'll have to order some. I have a couple trashed triangular files by nicholson too-from doing blades. I find that they work fine on springs but the blades are death on files. I've never used a dremel to do filework, and don't think I'll do it anytime soon-I think that's why the call it FILEwork

. It's too hard to control a dremel and keep things even. Anyway good nicholson files will do springs, but if you want them to last anytime at all you better no use them on blades. One chainsaw file lasted me through a couple dozen springs before it went noticeably dull, that's another nice thing-they come in a pack of 2 so you always have a back up. I got them in 3 different sizes. Good luck!

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 2:58 am

Jeff & Kaleb,
I haven't used any chain Saw files, but it sounds like a good idea. Living in Oregon, as I do, I can find Oregon files pretty easily.

I usually buy the wood handles for my files. They cost a couple bucks, but if I spend $10 in a file I want a good handle to control the file. I have used tire inflation stems as file handles. Just take out the valve and tap the file tang into the metal stem. The rubber base makes a nice handle. I used to get them free when I worked in a service station, many, many years ago. If you have to go buy them, it is probably cheaper to get a pre-made file handle.

Jeff,
Watch out for liquid center golf balls. I had one spray stuff all over one time.

Dale

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 3:18 am

Go for it Dale, the chainsaw files cut like crazy and leave a nice smooth finish that will polish up to a nice shine with minimal effort.