Knives 101: I failed cleaning

[Edgewise]

Oil in the joints tends to gunk up in time so I decided to take woseyjales advice and use a Q-tip (and tooth pick) on the tang and spring, at all angles of open and closed blades. This minute, repetitive task turned out to be an almost zen-like experience and can make hours seem like minutes.

Is there a safe solvent I can use to clean off all the old oil and start over from scratch.
Is it OK to work some magic micro-crystalline all-purpose renaissance wax into the cleaned joints to inhibit rust?
Would WD 40 be OK in the joints too? (Just trying to avoid messy oil.)

I use the ren wax to protect my blades but rust spots or pits still appear as if from inside the steel under the
micro-crystalline wax. I now clean these off with a pencil point ( owd wullie's tip) followed by Flitz and more ren wax but I'm wondering if gunky oil is better than that ren wax polish for inhibiting rust.

I've heard that patina prevents rust so should I induce a patina on my non stainless blades (including joints and springs)?
If so, What patina is recommended and how do I do it properly? I also see some spots or stains on some of my stainless blades. Should I rust treat my stainless knives like the non stainless ones?

Too many questions for one person, so I'll be grateful for any more useful tips from anybody's personal, knife-care experience you picked up along the way that works for you.

[Just Plain Dave]

I'm not sure where you live. In the summer in Texas I can get CV to rust in a day!

I generally Patina my blades using Vinegar. I soak a blade for 10 -15 minutes and blot the vinegar off with paper towel. You get a somewhat mottled appearance that way, but magic wadding can smooth it out.

I don't know what to do about SS rusting.

[Edgewise]

Dave, Why not soak the whole knife?
Wouldn't that help preserve the joints as well?

[whitebuffalo58]

A high concentration of Dawn dish washing soap and warm water works good for cutting through gunky oil. (and it's safe on all handle materials) I use an old toothbrush and work the blades through their entire range in motion. Scrub, rinse, scrub, rinse and eventually the gunk rinses away. I use SOS pads to clean away surface rust and corrosion. For me they're just right at cleaning the bad stuff, but leaving the good stuff. Don't scrub hard with them, just light strokes and let the soap do the work. Rinse thoroughly and blow the knife out with compressed air. Reoil the joints and work it in. The oil I use is a high grade machine oil designed for oiling air tools. Doesn't seem to gunk like some of the others.
I havn't done alot of forced patina. But the few times I have I used cold gun blueing or a chemical called Ferric Chloride. Both left a good effect but I liked the Ferric Chloride best. You can get it at about any RadioShack. It's sold as an etching solution for circuit boards before soldering in the components. Knife makers use it to bring out the patterns in Damascus. Be careful though, it will literally turn a blade to mush if you leave it too long. I used a Q-Tip to wipe it on and watch for the effect I wanted, then rinsed in water and baking soda to neutralize. I didn't allow the solution to penetrate into the rub areas but you can if it suits ya.
Again, blow out the knife with compressed air and reoil thoroughly. Note: Ferric Chloride will stain handle materials, so use safely and wisely. It's good stuff, but you have to control it.
I think everyone probably has their own ways, this is just mine. As often said, "it works for me" WB

[chetr1200c]

never use wd-40. unlike what most believe, it will break down over time and attract moisture. it is only good for quick jobs, something like a penetration oil. it is only what the title says-- water displacement aka wd

[Just Plain Dave]

I have taken to submerging the blade in vinegar up to the pivot or a little farther.
It discolors the bolsters, but they polish out ok.

[whitebuffalo58]

never use wd-40. unlike what most believe, it will break down over time and attract moisture. it is only good for quick jobs, something like a penetration oil. it is only what the title says-- water displacement aka wd

Ditto, WD-40 has it's uses, but not as a full-time knife oil.

[Edgewise]

Very helpful so far. I'm glad I asked about the WD 40 before I tried it. Every tip counts, believe me.

I realise the usefulnes of an air compressor for quick-drying joints but I don't have one. Would a portable 120 volt
tyre inflator do the job? I have to justify the cost of buying one.

Ferric chloride sounds good for cleaning rust in hard to reach places but I don't want to risk it in joints without a compressor.

[whitebuffalo58]

Edge, compressed air cans like the ones they sell for cleaning your computer keyboards and such work pretty good and are reasonably inexpensive. You can do several knives with each can. Anything that will supply preasure to around 50-75 psi will do.
To restate, the Ferric Chloride is for applying a forced patina. I've never used it as a cleaning solution. Although i'm sure it would remove rust, it's best applied as a darkening agent after a thorough cleaning with milder soaps and/or chemicals.
I would advise cleaning up an old junker and experimenting with the F/C before using it on a treasured knife. WB

[gringo]

perhaps a bit more time with toothpicks and elbow grease???
instead of instant gratification?

[Edgewise]

I didn't know about those cans. See what I mean?
I was even considering the blow end of the vacuum cleaner.

[philco]

If you don't have an air compressor you can use a blow drier (like the gals use to dry their hair) to remove the water after washing the knife. Just make sure you get it completely dry, working the blades through thier full range of rotation to expose any trapped moisture in the joints, then oil the knife joints. I've done this several times and it's worked well for me.
You may want to avoid this on a celluloid handled knife as heat is thought to be possible trigger for outgassing.

Phil

[orvet]

I use Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber to remove a lot of the grease, dirt & crud in old knives. I put the blades at about half stop and spray at the base of the blades from inside & outside, right where the tang meets the backspring.

It is under enough pressure it will blow a lot of crud & dirt out of a knife besides being an excellent solvent. I use it over other cheaper cleaners as it says it is safe for synthetic materials.

It works very well for me.

[Iron Hoarder]

That Casey Gun Scrubber is great stuff. Just don't get it in yer eye! it stings like a real bastard and you have to rinse it out with a lot of water before it eats your eye.

[orvet]

You are right Robert. I wear glasses so I don’t have a problem with that.
But, I have gotten it in a cut with the same results you experienced. ……. ……… It stings BIG TIME!

[Bootclad]

OK - I must have missed the bus 'cause all I use is turps and a toothbrush.