Oil to protect metal parts but not damage scales

[friendofwenger]

Hello to everyone. I have just found this site and can see myself spending many hours here .
I have tried doing a bit of searching on this site as to the best lubricant to use to stop corrosion/rust on two old knives I have (1920's E.C Simmons, bone scales and 1957 Wenger Standard issue, the one they issued to Swiss Army with plastic? scales). My main concern is using an oil that will penetrate between the metal liners and scales, protect the scales from corrosion but not do damage to the scales?
I was thinking of using WD40 but was worried what the petroleum base would do in the long term to the scales? Would mineral oil (baby oil) protect both? I'm sure greater minds than me have thought about this before Look forward to hearing peoples opinions. Thanks, Joe.

[trail]

Hi Joe - I only wish I knew the answer to your question as it is one that has long bugged me too. But someone will be along soon with some good suggestions. And welcome to AAPK!

[friendofwenger]

Thanks for the welcome trail. At least I now know it's not a silly question

[arathol]

Mineral oil is generally recommended for preserving bone scales. It shouldn't harm them at all. As for plastiic, it depends on just what it is. If its real old it may be celluloid based, in which case you want to keep any petroleum product far away. Exposure to petroleum based oil can trigger celluloid degradation.
The main ingredient in WD40 is Stoddards solvent, a petroleum product similiar to kerosene. It may or may not have any effect on a bone handle. Plastic however, especially the older stuff, can be susceptible to damage from petroleum based solvents.

[woseyjales]

May want to check out Zoom Spout Oiler.
turbine lubricant oil.
contains no detergents
parrafin base, no gumming
rust and oxidation inhibitor
4oz bottle less than $3 if I remember correctly.
Found mine at Ace Hardware.
Has long extendable applicator tube.
If it's made to handle hi temp turbine duty,
slip joints should be a breeze.

[caddyman1973]

I use "Coon P". Developed by SMKW to be used in The National Knife Museum. If its good enough for those knives, its plenty good enough for my meager collection. Just my opinion though, I like it. Its about $10 for the big bottle and kinda has an "orangey" smell. Wait a minute---a product from Tennessee with an "orangey" smell.....

[galvanic1882]

I always wondered about the oils and how they affected handles and have always used the mineral oil because of that. But this raises a question for me, what about the Sack-ups that are sold to hold knives. They have oil in the cloth, I think? Could the oil help to start the gasing of celluloid???

[bonehead]

3 in 1 Oil has been around forever and works well. I take all my new old knives put them in a common soap dish for the tub an soak them down by litterally filling the blade cavity. Rest it on the backspring and let it drip dry. After a day or so I will invert it backspring up and let it stand. 3 in 1 is a clear oil and penetrates very well. I've done all of my knives in bone/stag/ and the newer plastics without incident. One would be surprized what will come out of what might think is a clean knife. After I finish this little process I open all the blades and do a good wipe down. If putting the knife up, renwax the entire knife

[friendofwenger]

When you say 3 in 1, what exactly are they? Could you please give a couple of brands? Thanks, Joe.

[caddyman1973]

3 in one, is the brand name. Here's their website.
http://www.3inone.com/

[orvet]

In April 2009 Johnny Fain, (jonet143), Moderator on AAPK passed on to the big knife show in the sky.
I sold many knives from his collection for his widow, by auctions here on AAPK . I personally handled and photographed each knife from his collection.

His knives are some of the best preserved old knives I have seen in all my years in collecting and in the retail cutlery business.

Johnnie's secret? He would clean each old knife he got and polish it with Ren Wax. After that he wiped them down with mineral oil every 6 months. He took excellent care of his knives. I saw no evidence of the mineral oil causing deterioration of the celluloid, and it worked wonders on the steel , wood, and stag.

I think you have to go a long way and spend a lot of money to beat simple old mineral oil, which is cheap and readily available at most any pharmacy.

Just my 2¢,
Dale

[friendofwenger]

Thanks Dale. I think i will take your advice. Thanks for taking the time to post an answer. Cheers, Joe.

[gino]

Is all mineral oil the same???

[orvet]

Not sure Gino.
What I get is "Food Grade", sold in the pharmacies as a laxative. I figure it is the purest & readily available.
(Don't drink it unless you really need it.....................)

Dale

[edgy46]

What Dale said. USP is what it will say if it is for human consumption. I have been using it on my knives since Johnnie recomended it, and have had great results.