Rigid Apache

[Kass]

Hello I found this site while looking for an answers about cleaning, polishing, repairing the knife I purchased in the Ebay link below.
The description states "excellent condition with only some discoloration to the brass along the edges.".
The butt end bolster does have discoloration and maybe rub wear from being in the leather sheath.
But what looks the same on the pivot end bolster is where the surface of the brass was removed/etched by green corrosion between the sheath and the knife.
The questions I have are, do I leave it alone, try to polish the etching out to restore the shine (in the second pic you can see the sellers fingers and camera reflect off the brass) and the best way to restore if that's what I choose to do and did I pay too much?
Does anyone have links to Rigid's history? Right after my auction another folder was put up but it only has one rivet holding the handles on.
Thanks for any help.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 500wt_1154

[orvet]

Kass,
That green corrosion is called verdis (spelling may be off). It is caused by the chemicals in the leather from the tanning process - vegetable tanned leather doesn't do this.

If the etching or pitting is deep, I would start with 400 grit sandpaper (good quality like used by auto body shops, like 3M or Norton), and work my way up to 2000 grit,
Typically the increments would be 400 grit, 600 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 1200 grit, 1500 grit & 2000 grit.
Then I would switch to 3M polishing paper in 4000 grit, 6000 grit & 8000 grit. You can get them from Jantz Supply, K & G and Texas Knifemakers Supply, or from Otto Frei (jeweler supply) on line.

By the time you have worked down to 8000 grit, you will probably have as good a shine as when you got it.
Touching it up on a buffer will make the brass really sparkle.

Hope this helps,
Dale

[snorkel]

If you have access to a buffer, just wet sand it under the sink up to 600, then use white compound on the buffer and it will look like new.
Start with 320 and go in a vertical direction, this will show any scratches that are in a horizontal positions, then after all the scratches are gone, switch to 400 and sand the brass the opposite of the 320, then switch to 600 and go the other way in your sanding, the key is to switch the direction you are sanding to expose scratches etc that may be hidden.
Once you have a nice satin 600 finish with the wet/dry sandpaper, move to the buffer and let the buffing compound do the rest of the work.

[Kass]

Thank you Dale and snorkel for your help I'm not really what someone could call a collector.
Even though I do have a Rigid Custom 44?? Bowie knife 18" overall length, I found at a yard sale.
The way the Apache R-9 was described I was never going to use or sharpen it.
I guess I don't really know the collect-ability of this or any of the older Rigid knives.
If this is collectible will polishing and changing the original surfaces matter?


Thanks Again
Dan

[orvet]

Well the old Rigid knives are pretty collectible from what I have seen. They are not in the same game as a Scagle or a Randall, but they do have decent value.
You should stop all active rust and stop the verdis so those two things do not continue to damage the knife.

You should not polish a collectible knife just to make it shiny. That will diminish the value.
Active rust will actually damage the knife and lower the value even more.

You sort of have to assess what your knife needs.
If you can post some pictures of the knife, we might be able to help you decide what you should do with it.

Dale