Slipjoint bolster and liner question

[Slip232us]

I started making a slipjoint single blade knife. What other ss will work for sodlering the bolster and liners together besides 410 ss ?
Thank you

[Reverand]

I use lead-free plumbing solder. It works well and is locally available.

[orvet]

I use the Stay Brite soldering kit. It is a small kit, but one kit usually lasts me four or five years. You can get them from Jantz supply. I have tried other solders, some of them work and some don't. I just use this one product now for bolsters and I don't have to wonder if it's going to hold.

https://knifemaking.com/products/jh101- ... 5548638308

[Slip232us]

Thanks for the info about the flux and solder. What kind of steel do u use for the liners, bolster and pin stock ?

[OLDE CUTLER]

Thanks for the info about the flux and solder. What kind of steel do u use for the liners, bolster and pin stock ?

You'll want to use .025 or .032" brass for liners, nickel silver for the bolsters and 3/32 " pin stock. Steel is not an ideal material for building a quality knife.

[ea42]

Thanks for the info about the flux and solder. What kind of steel do u use for the liners, bolster and pin stock ?

You'll want to use .025 or .032" brass for liners, nickel silver for the bolsters and 3/32 " pin stock. Steel is not an ideal material for building a quality knife.

I'd 100% disagree with that as far as stainless steel. Carbon steel not so much but the subject here is stainless. I use 416 and 304. 304 is better for welding so I tend to use that more often. I spot weld, no solder but I should think solder would work fine, just need to prep the surface and remove any scale.

Eric

[OLDE CUTLER]

Thanks for the info about the flux and solder. What kind of steel do u use for the liners, bolster and pin stock ?

You'll want to use .025 or .032" brass for liners, nickel silver for the bolsters and 3/32 " pin stock. Steel is not an ideal material for building a quality knife.

I'd 100% disagree with that as far as stainless steel. Carbon steel not so much but the subject here is stainless. I use 416 and 304. 304 is better for welding so I tend to use that more often. I spot weld, no solder but I should think solder would work fine, just need to prep the surface and remove any scale.


Albers 2 Blade Amboyna Burl 2.jpg

Eric

Sorry I didn't see a reference to stainless steel in the post if there was one.

[ea42]

You'll want to use .025 or .032" brass for liners, nickel silver for the bolsters and 3/32 " pin stock. Steel is not an ideal material for building a quality knife.

I'd 100% disagree with that as far as stainless steel. Carbon steel not so much but the subject here is stainless. I use 416 and 304. 304 is better for welding so I tend to use that more often. I spot weld, no solder but I should think solder would work fine, just need to prep the surface and remove any scale.


Albers 2 Blade Amboyna Burl 2.jpg

Eric

Sorry I didn't see a reference to stainless steel in the post if there was one.

He refers to stainless steel as "ss" in the initial post. 410 is a martensitic stainless steel.

Eric

[Slip232us]

Thank you so much for helping me, it’s been hard to find answers of what kind of steel to use. My blades and springs are already heat treated. They are cpm 154. Can I use a harbor freight spot welder or will it not penetrate deep enough? What kind of spot welder do u have? Sorry for so many questions. I’ve heard soldering the bolsters and liners is a pain.

[ea42]

Yes but you need the 240 volt model, 120 won't be powerful enough. I have that very 240 Volt model for around four years now and it works fine. I rigged up a sketchy foot pedal rig to keep both hands free, but it's not necessary. You can use a small vie grips to clamp the pieces together so you have your other handle to push the lever.

Eric

[Slip232us]

Thanks for more information, where the heck did u find the 304 steel? Can’t find it on a lot of knife making sites, if I do it’s way too big. Thanks in advance. I usually make fixed blades. I just wanted to start making pocket knives.