Help Identifying

[Groathouse]

Hi all - found this pocket knife amongst my grandmothers things in pretty rough shape. I plan to see about cleaning it up a bit and then just plan to use it.

I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me identify the manufacturer and approximate age?

The only identifying marker I am able to find anywhere is just the “WARDS
MADE IN USA”
on one side of the main blade.

[msteele6]

Most likely Utica Cutlery, made sometime in the 1940's - 1960's

[Ridgegrass]

Agree. Nice one! J.O'.

[Groathouse]

Thank you both, I appreciate it!

[Mumbleypeg]

Nice old survivor, and family heirloom! The “lead” of a pencil will do a good job of cleaning the blades without damaging them. Just scrub the blade with the pencil lead and then wipe it off with a soft cloth. The graphite “lead” is softer than steel but harder than rust, so it will remove any loose oxidation without damaging good steel.

Most of the gray “patina” will remain however. It’s a form of iron oxide but it’s hard (and will likely continue to spread) but will also retard red rust. IMHO that’s a good thing - an old knife should look like an old knife, not shiny like it was when it was new. It’s also a great reminder of your grandmother - that patina “grew” while she had the knife.

Ken

[Ridgegrass]

Just to stick my two cents in, unsolicited. I'm not a fan of polishing knives because they're a little stained. That's a nice old knife in "historic" condition. If it were mine I'd soak it in some oil and wipe it down lightly with some fine steel wool and a clean rag and keep it as it is. No abrasives. It will be a more honest collectible that way. My humble opinion. Good luck with it. J.O'.

[Ridgegrass]

Ken, I did't see your post before writing mine. I strongly agree. J.O'.

[LKSKNIVES]

Nice old survivor, and family heirloom! The “lead” of a pencil will do a good job of cleaning the blades without damaging them. Just scrub the blade with the pencil lead and then wipe it off with a soft cloth. The graphite “lead” is softer than steel but harder than rust, so it will remove any loose oxidation without damaging good steel.

Most of the gray “patina” will remain however. It’s a form of iron oxide but it’s hard (and will likely continue to spread) but will also retard red rust. IMHO that’s a good thing - an old knife should look like an old knife, not shiny like it was when it was new. It’s also a great reminder of your grandmother - that patina “grew” while she had the knife.

Ken

Good afternoon Ken
I have a question about the graphite from the lead.
My son has a Carhart jacket, last year the zipper would not zip. I googled it it said use a pencil to lubricate the zipper with the lead. Here is where the question comes in. I am a toy train collector and have used graphite lubricants on banjo signals and door locks here in the north land then they don’t freeze.
Have you ever put straight graphite on the blade and rubbed it gently with a rag?
Any thoughts.
Thank you very much
Steve

[Mumbleypeg]

Never tried “straight graphite” but I assume by that you’re meaning in the powder form? I think the pencil “lead” form has enough rigidity to make it (the graphite) more suitable for applying to a knife blade. Not sure how well the powder form would work in that application.

I do use graphite powder for lubricating door lock mechanisms. It’s a pretty good lubricant (far superior to WD-40 ), and like you say, it doesn’t freeze. Now that you mention it - my favorite lube for firearm actions (and knives) is Tuf-Glide which contains a dry lube in a mineral spirits carrier. The mineral spirits carrier serves to get the dry lubricant into the mechanism, after which the mineral sprits carrier evaporates, leaving the dry lube behind to do its job. That also doesn’t freeze, or collect dirt. Which is why the military uses it.

Ken

[LKSKNIVES]

Yes Ken that is exactly what I’m talking about.
I’m glad you mentioned that you use it on your guns. I don’t want to clutter this topic so I will send you a PM or if you suggest a different topic here too discuss this type of lubricant for use on my first semi automatic Shotgun.
Thank you very much
Steve

[Mumbleypeg]

Yes Ken that is exactly what I’m talking about.
I’m glad you mentioned that you use it on your guns. I don’t want to clutter this topic so I will send you a PM or if you suggest a different topic here too discuss this type of lubricant for use on my first semi automatic Shotgun.
Thank you very much
Steve

Buy a Sentry Armorer’s Kit https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SY1100 ... -kit-91100. Contains everything you need. https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/thing ... orers-kit/

Ken

[nexgen77]

Hi there every1. As Iam new to the Forum please excuse me for the possible mistakes Ive could have made. Now can you please help me identify the knife Ive inherited from my father R.I.P. ? Thank you in advance.

[New_Windsor_NY]

Hi.....

Try here:
viewforum.php?f=86

[Groathouse]

Just wanted to post an update: I’ve had the knife professionally restored and use it often, so it will continue on with its useful life - thanks everyone!

[doglegg]

Just wanted to post an update: I’ve had the knife professionally restored and use it often, so it will continue on with its useful life - thanks everyone!

It looks good.

[btrwtr]

Very nice. Anytime you can clean a knife up some without taking all of the honesty out of it I think you've done well.