First Case - Confirmation Appreciated

[cuttindux]

Good evening. I made my first post yesterday, regarding potential counterfeit Case’s which many of you replied to, thank you all so much. I wasn’t intending on purchasing my first Case anytime soon but this afternoon on the way back from a birthday party we stopped by a large antique store and they had quite a few booths with knives. There was one Case in the whole place, listed for $25, and with my limited knowledge (and looking at my cheat sheet saved in my phone), I looked at the stamps and decided to get it. With my inexperience, I’m hoping it’s a true Case but also being the realist (pessimist) that I am, I realize for $25, real or not it’s worth the education. It’s been fun learning about these. I’ll see if I can figure out how to post pictures and see if anyone would like to confirm.

The stamps are very hard to read and I’d like to try to clean them up but wanted to show the current condition. All I can see on the back side of the clip blade is 63. I’m sure there’s a 47 under there if I can clean it up. The sheepfoot and spey blade both are stamped SS which I haven’t been able to find if that was normal in these years. Also, the spring they are on has an “issue” of some sort that causes them to be kind of sloppy. If this is a true Case, I’m sure that contributes to its price point.

Thank you for your time and appreciate any feedback.

[Reverand]

Yep, looks like a legit Case 6347!

[Mumbleypeg]

Looks like a well used, and probably broken, Case 6347. From your pictures it looks like it may have a broken spring. With the blades closed the springs should be flush with the frame. See picture below. Hate to tell you but in that condition it’s probably not worth $25, but like you said it may be worth the lesson.

IMG_6849.jpeg (172.27 KiB) Viewed 1049 times

Again I recommend you spend some time in the Research section here on AAPK, before you buy any used knives. Here’s an example of what you can find there. Pictures and descriptions of the various patterns, including closed length which is very important in determining the pattern, especially if the pattern number is not legible.

A little research can save you a lot of money (and discouragement). BTW light rust and tarnish can be removed with the “lead” end of a pencil. The graphite (lead) is harder than rust but softer than steel, so it will clean off the rust and dirt but will not damage the knife. (Old knife collectors trick!)

Ken

[Modern Slip Joints]

I think its California or Turkish clip point master and more pronounced serpintine handle shape make it a 6318. Measure its handle length for me please. IIRC 6318s are 3 5/8" and 6347s are 3 7/8".

Case warranty repair might replace the broken spring for free. The newer it is the more likely it will be a free fix. Does it have a date code? We like looking at pictures of Case tang stamps. They let us think we're experts. The last time I posted that Case might fix a new member's knife for free Case didn't get around to e-mailing him that it would be a free fix for two or three weeks by which time he'd given up and sold the knife cheap. He regreted not being more patient. His knife was a 6265 Folding Hunter with one of its two blades broken leaving only a stub. If Case fixes it then it is likely they'll rebuff and polish while they're at it.

[cuttindux]

Looks like a well used, and probably broken, Case 6347. From your pictures it looks like it may have a broken spring. With the blades closed the springs should be flush with the frame. See picture below. Hate to tell you but in that condition it’s probably not worth $25, but like you said it may be worth the lesson.
IMG_6849.jpeg

Again I recommend you spend some time in the Research section here on AAPK, before you buy any used knives. Here’s an example of what you can find there. Pictures and descriptions of the various patterns, including closed length which is very important in determining the pattern, especially if the pattern number is not legible.
IMG_6850.jpeg

A little research can save you a lot of money (and discouragement). BTW light rust and tarnish can be removed with the “lead” end of a pencil. The graphite (lead) is harder than rust but softer than steel, so it will clean off the rust and dirt but will not damage the knife. (Old knife collectors trick!)

Ken

Great info Ken! Exactly the things I needed to hear. I have read quite a bit generally in the Research section but there’s so much to cover and soak in! I also checked out Steve Pfeifer’s Case book from the library last week and am reading through it.

I did purchase this knife knowing it had issues for sure. This morning I watched the Reverend’s video on fixing the snap on an old Barlow he had. That was in my mind when I saw the uneven spring and thought it’s possible I could try to asses what was wrong with it and potentially try my hand at fixing it if possible. I figured it wouldn’t be so valuable that playing with it would hurt much.

And for that $25 I had in hand a project: to try to clean up, a model to research and give me a good direct to give my attention and something to learn from. I’ve been reading up on the model 47 in Steve’s book tonight. I’ll also take to the research section here as well.

On a similar note, if I’m reading correctly, is the main blade on this knife considered a California clip? If so, should I find a 63047 under that rust? I’m going to start with the pencil trick tomorrow first thing! Thank you for that. I think there’s a few threads on cleaning on the site as well that I’ll dig into.

Thank you for your time and patience with an extreme novice here. I have enough hobbies I didn’t intend on getting interested in knives, but yet here I am…

[cuttindux]

I think its California or Turkish clip point master and more pronounced serpintine handle shape make it a 6318. Measure its handle length for me please. IIRC 6318s are 3 5/8" and 6347s are 3 7/8".

Case warranty repair might replace the broken spring for free. The newer it is the more likely it will be a free fix. Does it have a date code? We like looking at pictures of Case tang stamps. They let us think we're experts. The last time I posted that Case might fix a new member's knife for free Case didn't get around to e-mailing him that it would be a free fix for two or three weeks by which time he'd given up and sold the knife cheap. He regreted not being more patient. His knife was a 6265 Folding Hunter with one of its two blades broken leaving only a stub. If Case fixes it then it is likely they'll rebuff and polish while they're at it.

Excellent points! Thank you for mentioning all of that. The tang stamp is Case XX USA. I’ll attach a closeup of that and the measurement.

[cuttindux]

I might have messed up not posting a measurement earlier. The 6318 on the Research tab sure looks like it and measured out as well. I found the pattern 18 in Steve’s book. I’m taking a pencil to the knife now. I was going to wait until tomorrow but I’ll give it a whirl.

[knifeaholic]

The knife is a 6318 Sh Sp SSP. Appears to be no dots, so it is a 1965-69.

If it did not have the broken spring, it would be a steal at $25.

A broken backspring is always considered a warranty issue, so Case may repair it IF the currently made '18 backspring fits the older knife.

[cuttindux]

The knife is a 6318 Sh Sp SSP. Appears to be no dots, so it is a 1965-69.

If it did not have the broken spring, it would be a steal at $25.

A broken backspring is always considered a warranty issue, so Case may repair it IF the currently made '18 backspring fits the older knife.

Thank you Steve! And thanks to each of those who commented above and helped walk me through the learning process of this piece, as well as what to look for in the future. It’s a blessing to have knowledgeable folks be so willing to share. I will reach out to Case via email this week and wait to see what they say and start there.

Thanks again everyone for the confirmation and advice!

[knifeaholic]

The knife is a 6318 Sh Sp SSP. Appears to be no dots, so it is a 1965-69.

If it did not have the broken spring, it would be a steal at $25.

A broken backspring is always considered a warranty issue, so Case may repair it IF the currently made '18 backspring fits the older knife.

Thank you Steve! And thanks to each of those who commented above and helped walk me through the learning process of this piece, as well as what to look for in the future. It’s a blessing to have knowledgeable folks be so willing to share. I will reach out to Case via email this week and wait to see what they say and start there.

Thanks again everyone for the confirmation and advice!

Please post here as to what Case's response is. I'm just curious as to what they say about the repair.

[cuttindux]

The knife is a 6318 Sh Sp SSP. Appears to be no dots, so it is a 1965-69.

If it did not have the broken spring, it would be a steal at $25.

A broken backspring is always considered a warranty issue, so Case may repair it IF the currently made '18 backspring fits the older knife.

Thank you Steve! And thanks to each of those who commented above and helped walk me through the learning process of this piece, as well as what to look for in the future. It’s a blessing to have knowledgeable folks be so willing to share. I will reach out to Case via email this week and wait to see what they say and start there.

Thanks again everyone for the confirmation and advice!

Please post here as to what Case's response is. I'm just curious as to what they say about the repair.

Absolutely! Will do!