What to do with this knife?

[Mikekindofcool]

First post here although I've been lurking trying to figure out what I can do here.

I want to clean this knife for my dad. It was his grandpa's hunting knife and they were very close before he passed. I've already taken an eraser to it and that helped some, but I'm trying to figure out how I should proceed. I don't want to take away from the knife and I don't think I really want to do anything that would be abrasive, but I want to clean it as much as possible. I've seen so many different things in here I'm not sure who to trust, I don't want to ruin or clean it and give it to him and have taken away from it.

Also, I know what kind of knife it is, but I can't find much on this knife in particular so any help with that would be great. My dad loves to know the history of things so I thought I'd try to throw that in there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

It's a Western Boulder Colo #061 folding hunting knife.

[Thomasg]

It looks like the celluloid handles may be gassing out and need replaced .you may be able to buff and polish some of the damage done to the blades and bolsters .Here is a western boulder that reverend put some oak handles on for me.I prefer to leave the pitting on the blades alone that i some times happens to knifes with carbon type blades .welcome to AA P K

Wester boulder ( new handles)

[Mikekindofcool]

Thanks for replying!

Ok so I was able to get a lot of the green off. You think I need to replace the handles on it? What are you looking at that makes it seem like that. Again, I'm new so explain it like I'm 5.

I'm amazed at what an eraser was able to do so far.

[Mumbleypeg]

Welcome to AAPK. It's difficult to tell without having the knife in-hand, but what I'm seeing is verdigris, probably caused by the knife having been stored in a leather sheath. Verdigris is that green stuff on the bolsters and other areas of the knife made from brass or nickel silver (which contains brass) which have reacted to leather tanning chemicals. Celluloid outgassing does not typically cause verdigris.

Cleaning of knives is a frequently asked question. Recommend you read through this viewtopic.php?f=37&t=54157 which may help you with questions you've asked.

Ken

[wlf]

I agree with Ken.
I don't think the handles need replacing. The blades don't have that speckling associated with out gassing. It looks like verdigris to me.

[FRJ]

I'm amazed at what an eraser was able to do so far.

That's a nice knife you have there. The "match strike", on the nail nicks are really nice.
The blades look pretty full to me.
I think what thomasg was referring to was the slight shrinkage at the bolsters and the crack at the pin
which happens when celluloid shrinks.
There is lot of personal sentiment with this knife, apparently.
In my view, the covers don't look alarming but they should be kept in mind.
That is a Western Hunting knife and they are very good knives.
I think the blades would clean up with just a green kitchen scrub pad and water.
I would start there, dry it and add oil in the joint.

[Mikekindofcool]

Any tips on taking it to get sharpened as well? Anything to look out for?

[philco]

If you could post a clear photo of the tang stamp, I'll try to share some history from Goin's Encyclopedia Of Cutlery Markings.

[Rookie]

Ok so I was able to get a lot of the green off. You think I need to replace the handles on it? What are you looking at that makes it seem like that. Again, I'm new so explain it like I'm 5.

Mike, what some of the guys have mentioned is that your knife appears to possibly have a handle type called Celluloid. It is a type of plastic that was commonly used on knife handles back in the day, that after many years it was learned that the material has a shelf life, and eventually breaks down (outgasses). Sometimes that happens 20 years later, sometimes 120 years later. It is hard to predict and there is no definite rhyme or reason to it.

It destroys itself, and eventually destroys the metal parts of the knife as well. If there are signs that the Celluloid is beginning to outgas, and you care about saving the knife, it is best to get those handles off of it and have new handles put on of a different material.

Signs to look out for would be shrinking and cracking (which yours is starting to do). Worse signs would be if the shield, bolsters, spring, or blade start changing color to a dull grey/brown instead of shiny, or start getting small pinsize pits in the metal. If the knife is kept in a confined area with other knives, it can also affect them as well.

There are some folks who have some suggestions for ways to slow down the outgassing process, but nothing stops it completely.

[btrwtr]

Doesn't look to me like the handles are outgassing. Schrade called this type of celluloid marine pearl and it can be one of the more stable celulloids. The knife appears to be in decent shape and just in need of some TLC and looks like you have made some progress with it already. The Western Boulder stamp dates the knife to 1951-1978 but I would think it is from the earlier part of that time frame.

[eveled]

Any tips on taking it to get sharpened as well? Anything to look out for?

It should be sharpened by hand, sharpening services vary greatly and many use grinders. It just needs a gentle sharpening, and some oil wiped onto the blades and in the joints.

The eraser is a good idea, but also a lead pencil can be used on the rust spots, it will knock off any rust or deposits without scratches.

Don’t store it in a sheath, don’t store it in anything airtight incase it starts to outgas

If you tell us were you are located maybe one of us is close enough to help

[glennbad]

Looks like the blades have some nice years of use on them. What I like to do with older blades like that is use some 3 in 1 oil and then some 400-600 grit paper or very fine steel wool. Put some oil on the blades and then rub down with the paper or wool. It will knock down the rust/gunk, but leave the nice patina and years on the blades. Do not use any aggressive grits of paper, that will scratch the blades visually.

Also, you can get down in the well of the knife frame with some toothpicks and such to clean out any gunk down in there.

That's a nice old knife and I'm sure your dad will like whatever you do with it.

[Mikekindofcool]

I'm in the Portland area. You all are awesome.

[Mikekindofcool]

If you could post a clear photo of the tang stamp, I'll try to share some history from Goin's Encyclopedia Of Cutlery Markings.

Here's what I have!!

[Mikekindofcool]

Ok so I was able to get a lot of the green off. You think I need to replace the handles on it? What are you looking at that makes it seem like that. Again, I'm new so explain it like I'm 5.

Mike, what some of the guys have mentioned is that your knife appears to possibly have a handle type called Celluloid. It is a type of plastic that was commonly used on knife handles back in the day, that after many years it was learned that the material has a shelf life, and eventually breaks down (outgasses). Sometimes that happens 20 years later, sometimes 120 years later. It is hard to predict and there is no definite rhyme or reason to it.

It destroys itself, and eventually destroys the metal parts of the knife as well. If there are signs that the Celluloid is beginning to outgas, and you care about saving the knife, it is best to get those handles off of it and have new handles put on of a different material.

Signs to look out for would be shrinking and cracking (which yours is starting to do). Worse signs would be if the shield, bolsters, spring, or blade start changing color to a dull grey/brown instead of shiny, or start getting small pinsize pits in the metal. If the knife is kept in a confined area with other knives, it can also affect them as well.

There are some folks who have some suggestions for ways to slow down the outgassing process, but nothing stops it completely.

Good info! Thanks a bunch!

[Reverand]

Welcome to AAPK!
I agree that less is more in most cases. I recommend 000 steel wool and oil to clean the blades. They will not look super shiny when you are finished, but then over-buffed mirror finishes do not look right on an old knife anyway.
I use steel wool and Popsicle sticks to clean out the blade wells (if I am not taking the knife apart). I then scrub everything with an old toothbrush and dishwashing liquid, rinsing with hot water.
Afterward, dry the knife inside and out, using canned air. Then flush it with WD-40, dry it off, and rub oil into the blades.
If the handles are not getting worse, the cracks can be carefully filled with glue. The cracks will still be obvious, but it might prevent pieces from falling off completely.
If you want it re-handled, then there are several here who might be able to do that.

Sharpening:
Do NOT use anything with a motor.
You can do wonders with a cheap sharpening stone from the Dollar Tree. Buy a cheap kitchen knife to practice on until you get the hang of it. You can order plastic wedges to help get the correct angle (Wedgek AGM Angle Wedges for Sharpening Knives 10 to 20 degrees, Blue https://a.co/d/0gaaVtQ2), or invest in a guided sharpening system (Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://a.co/d/0gT58KGl)

[rugmar]

https://www.knifemagazine.com/restoring ... -stockman/

Take a look at the article from Knife Magazine. The author did a fairly gentle cleaning on an old Belknap knife and it turned out real nice.

Rugmar

[stockman]

Mike some good advice about your Western knife. Go back and read what btrwtr had to say.

Harold

[Thomasg]

The first pearl composite handles appear in the 1931 catalog pages and were described as being unbreakable .1950 would be the earliest your knife was produced as that’s when western over boulder / made in U.S.A. Was used as a tang stamp . The Pearl composite handle 062 knifes are still offered in the 1960 catalog pages .The 1968 catalog page have no 062 offered in composite pearl .So I would say your knife was manufactured somewhere from 1950 and before 1968 . attachment=0]IMG_4677.jpeg[/attachment]. I’m including a picture of a few of my pearl composite knifes in a group .I have been keeping a close eye on the 4th knife from the top for possibly starting to out gas .what I generally see on a gassing western knife is color changes( darkening) and blacking of the pins maybe some cracking at the pins also .

Western pearl

Early warning signs I look for.

Early warning signs I look for

best of luck with your knife .

Warning sign

[Mikekindofcool]

The first pearl composite handles appear in the 1931 catalog pages and were described as being unbreakable .1950 would be the earliest your knife was produced as that’s when western over boulder / made in U.S.A. Was used as a tang stamp . The Pearl composite handle 062 knifes are still offered in the 1960 catalog pages .The 1968 catalog page have no 062 offered in composite pearl .So I would say your knife was manufactured somewhere from 1950 and before 1968 . attachment=0]IMG_4677.jpeg[/attachment]. I’m including a picture of a few of my pearl composite knifes in a group .I have been keeping a close eye on the 4th knife from the top for possibly starting to out gas .what I generally see on a gassing western knife is color changes( darkening) and blacking of the pins maybe some cracking at the pins also .IMG_4678.jpeg IMG_4696.jpegIMG_4695.jpeg best of luck with your knife .IMG_4732.jpeg

Thanks! The 061 I've had a hard time finding information on, so this is helpful. Thanks!

Also that image is great. I have the leather case for it as well. (I know now not to store it in that though)

Well, I got some cleaning to do. Thanks to everyone!!!