Knife but not the knife

[Lady2Unique]

The knife but it’s not the knife
Post by Lady2Unique » Sat Apr 20, 2024 11:04 am

In the case of trying to identify ALL of these CASE knives I keep running into finding the exact knife except for one thing being different, ex., shield. So I go to CASE knives and put in what I believe is the information and CASE has no records. So I delete some of my “so called knowledge” and go from there…..no record. I google lens it and it brings me to a knife here but the shields don’t match.
Could someone explain where I’m going wrong in my research. I want to be able to find the information I just need help learning how to go about it without going insane.
And what it is with the same knife but different tang stamps…..I know it has to do with the year, model, & make of the handle~not positive on the last one. Then the letters & dots. I’m learning!! It’s a LOT! But once I research it it’ll stay with me, hopefully. I’m keeping a record book. One other thing, how do find what the liners are if they’re not brass? And what the bolsters & blades are made from?
Well, I believe I’ve ask enough questions in this post.
Lady2unique

[Mumbleypeg]

You’re possibly trying to overthink it. Most Case pocket knives made after 1950 or thereabouts have a pattern number stamped on them. Unless you have a TESTED XX or an early CASE XX stamped knife with no pattern number, it should be readily evident what pattern it is. Case has a relatively easy-to-learn pattern numbering system, from which one can identify the handle material, number of blades, pattern/frame, and other details. https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/ca ... ing-system
https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/ca ... ed-by-case
Rather than trying to read and remember all of that at once, just take each knife and research it, one at a time. Then do the next one, etc. After a while you will recognize some of them without having to research. Eventually you will realize you know most of them.

Most knives have liners made of either brass or nickel silver. Nickel silver is silver colored (same as most bolsters). Brass looks more like gold. Should be easy. The exceptions would again be on older knives. Some really old knives might have iron liners, as do some made during WWII. Those are both uncommon - at this point in your knife education, my advice is don’t worry about those exceptions.

Shields? Not likely to make a difference in value. For most of Case history (until around 2000) they seldom changed shields in a significant way and seldom does it affect value. Unless it has a shield from an era that doesn’t match its stamp, in which case it’s likely counterfeit - again not a concern except on older knives. Again, that really isn’t a big deal except on older (pre-1965) knives.

Last but not least the value of a given pattern is relatively the same within its era/decade assuming condition is the same. The value of a knife made in 1979 will be about the same as the same pattern, same condition, made in 1972.

These are general “rule of thumb” guidelines. Of course there are exceptions, but if you obsess over learning those now you will just get confused. I’ve had this knife collecting disease over 50 years and still learning.

Ken

[doglegg]

Well spoken Ken.