Bench Power tools

[JonTerry]

Hi guys,

I'm just dipping my toes in the water of Knife repair/making/restoring

I have lots of tools as I have been a tradesman all my life, but I am still unsure about polishers/ bench sander widths etc.

At the moment I have a 6" grinding wheel with stone on one side and polishing pad on the other.

Also I have recently bought a 1" x 30" belt grinder with sanding disc ( not an expensive one at this stage, but had good reviews from a few hobbyist knife makers)

So any tips on kit or methods would be amazing.

Oh and any tips on peening over stag would be great

Cheers

[Reverand]

The 1x30 belt sander works, but can easily get too aggressive. It is what I use because it is all that I can afford, but it teaches you to be careful on how you move the work against the belt. Look up "1x30 modification" on YouTube, as there are several tips on improving these belt Sanders.
Be VERY careful with the bench grinder/polishing wheel. These high speed polishers can easily throw a knife across the room, or into your body. I use polishing wheels that I mount into a drill press. It runs at a much lower speed and is far safer.
I recommend having a belt sander, a small vise or two, a drill press, and various hand tools like files, hacksaw, wire cutters, and small hammers. Something the size of a tack hammer works best in my opinion.

[btrwtr]

Sounds like you are off to a very good start and good advice above. I'm sure your work as a tradesman will give you a leg up on knife work.

I made a good number of knives using a 1"x30" belt grinder. The larger the piece the more dificult for me to get good results but it can be done. I would say that a decent 3 speed drill press is a top pick if you don't already have one.

I was told long ago that if you start with some very basic and less expensive tools you will find out through the work what you need most down the road. I've seen some go headlong into the process and by stuff that I wish I had only to find out they didn't have what it is necessary to carry through.

Here are the first 3 knives I made many years ago. All using a 1"x30" grinder. Still have 2 of them. I gave the middle knife to a good friend.

[JonTerry]

Sounds like you are off to a very good start and good advice above. I'm sure your work as a tradesman will give you a leg up on knife work.

I made a good number of knives using a 1"x30" belt grinder. The larger the piece the more dificult for me to get good results but it can be done. I would say that a decent 3 speed drill press is a top pick if you don't already have one.

I was told long ago that if you start with some very basic and less expensive tools you will find out through the work what you need most down the road. I've seen some go headlong into the process and by stuff that I wish I had only to find out they didn't have what it is necessary to carry through.

Here are the first 3 knives I made many years ago. All using a 1"x30" grinder. Still have 2 of them. I gave the middle knife to a good friend.

Thank you for your advice and faith that my history may well help me on this road, here is a link to a post I did about my first attempt to put an edge on a Schrade Blank, I only had the 6" grinder and a Precision Adjust to do this at the time, but the positive feedback has given me the confidence to move forward with this stuff, you guys are great !!!

https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kn ... 13&t=76871

[JonTerry]

Sounds like you are off to a very good start and good advice above. I'm sure your work as a tradesman will give you a leg up on knife work.

I made a good number of knives using a 1"x30" belt grinder. The larger the piece the more dificult for me to get good results but it can be done. I would say that a decent 3 speed drill press is a top pick if you don't already have one.

I was told long ago that if you start with some very basic and less expensive tools you will find out through the work what you need most down the road. I've seen some go headlong into the process and by stuff that I wish I had only to find out they didn't have what it is necessary to carry through.

Here are the first 3 knives I made many years ago. All using a 1"x30" grinder. Still have 2 of them. I gave the middle knife to a good friend.

Those are awsome looking Knives by the way !!!

[glennbad]

All great advice so far...to add to Reverand's point about buffers, you really don't want anything more than 1800 rpm. Any more than that would be extremely dangerous.

A metal cutting bandsaw or portable bandsaw would be handy, but not necessary. Most every operation can be done by hand, but it's very taxing.

A drill press is very handy as well!

[BIGHEAD]

1800 dangerous? Do tell. My buffer is twice that.

[C-WADE7]

1800 dangerous? Do tell. My buffer is twice that.

3600rpm and inexperience leads to high heat and burning of bone and acrylic handles. I don’t have the numbers handy but a 8” wheel on 3600 rpm is moving faster at the outer wheel surface.

[BIGHEAD]

That answer made my head hurt and gave me no answer.



Why is it dangerous? 1000 rpm can sling a blade through the operator. You have to be. Aware of situation.

[Reverand]

You do have to be careful and aware with any buffer, but it is easier to be careful with one at slower speeds.
An 1800 RPM buffer does cost a lot more, but it is much preferred. I do not remember the math, but when you calculate the inches of buffing material that passes by your work surface each second (and not just RPM's), it is incredible what some buffers can do. If it catches a knife it can do a lot of damage Melted handles might be the best thing that can happen then.
I use a small buffing wheel that I put in my drill press. It is a lot smaller and runs MUCH slower. It might take a few more seconds to buff, but the safety is worth it to me.
Everyone can make their own choices, this is just my decision.

[C-WADE7]

That answer made my head hurt and gave me no answer.



Why is it dangerous? 1000 rpm can sling a blade through the operator. You have to be. Aware of situation.

The answer is right in the words, higher heat caused by higher speed and can cause damage a lot faster. I’ve seen your work posted and obviously it isn’t an issue for you, but to an inexperienced user it can get out of hand quickly. I’ve seen a guy melt the jigging off a Delrin handle with a bench grinder and 6” wheel.

[Colonel26]

Sounds like you are off to a very good start and good advice above. I'm sure your work as a tradesman will give you a leg up on knife work.

I made a good number of knives using a 1"x30" belt grinder. The larger the piece the more dificult for me to get good results but it can be done. I would say that a decent 3 speed drill press is a top pick if you don't already have one.

I was told long ago that if you start with some very basic and less expensive tools you will find out through the work what you need most down the road. I've seen some go headlong into the process and by stuff that I wish I had only to find out they didn't have what it is necessary to carry through.

Here are the first 3 knives I made many years ago. All using a 1"x30" grinder. Still have 2 of them. I gave the middle knife to a good friend.

Those are amazing! Wow!

[C-WADE7]

An 1800 RPM buffer does cost a lot more, but it is much preferred. I do not remember the math, but when you calculate the inches of buffing material that passes by your work surface each second (and not just RPM's),

I found a calculator and with a 8” buffing wheel @ 3600 rpm the surface feet per minute is 7540 sfpm. 6” is 5654 sfpm.
At 1800 rpm 8” is 3770 sfpm and 6” is 2827 sfpm.

[Bill DeShivs]

Using smaller buffing wheels reduces the surface speed of the buff.
If using a 3600 RPM motor- use 4" buffs.

[BIGHEAD]

That answer made my head hurt and gave me no answer.



Why is it dangerous? 1000 rpm can sling a blade through the operator. You have to be. Aware of situation.

The answer is right in the words, higher heat caused by higher speed and can cause damage a lot faster. I’ve seen your work posted and obviously it isn’t an issue for you, but to an inexperienced user it can get out of hand quickly. I’ve seen a guy melt the jigging off a Delrin handle with a bench grinder and 6” wheel.

Yes delrin and other synthetics will burn easily. When buffing that stuff I use pink scratchless rouge and very light pressure.
Just did this one today for a buddy who is a retired Fire Fighter.

[edge213]

That answer made my head hurt and gave me no answer.



Why is it dangerous? 1000 rpm can sling a blade through the operator. You have to be. Aware of situation.

The answer is right in the words, higher heat caused by higher speed and can cause damage a lot faster. I’ve seen your work posted and obviously it isn’t an issue for you, but to an inexperienced user it can get out of hand quickly. I’ve seen a guy melt the jigging off a Delrin handle with a bench grinder and 6” wheel.

Yes delrin and other synthetics will burn easily. When buffing that stuff I use pink scratchless rouge and very light pressure.
Just did this one today for a buddy who is a retired Fire Fighter. 962A2365-F188-4C34-8530-7ED897A7BFF7.jpeg

That's beautiful.
I'm a retired fire fighter, is it for me?

[JonTerry]

Well ..............

My new sander has more power than I anticapated, I was trying to flatten the back of a scale when it caught into the base, ripped a huge flap (all of the thumb pad to the flesh, so lucky I have no site work for a couple of weeks, the knife scale is somewhere in the neighbourhood, don't think I'll see that again.

Any tips on flattening the back of scales guys ???

JT

[Jeffinn]

Make sure the tool rest is a close to the belt as possible to prevent having the piece getting pinched and launched across the room. You can also put a small tab of duct tape on the forward facing side to give yourself something to hold on to while grinding.
I work at slower speeds when shaping handles but that may not be an option for you depending on the grinder being used.
Jeff

[JonTerry]

Cheers Jeff,

Tips well appreciated, especially as I need to keep mine on my hands !!!

I cannot change the speed on my disc but will definately be also more carefull moving forward.

Thumbs sore as a ...............but at least I am now typing with both hands.

Should of gone climbing instead today ha !!!

[btrwtr]

Ouch, Sorry to hear that JT.

[JonTerry]

Ouch, Sorry to hear that JT.

Thanks Man,

Funny thing is, I was in the back garden when it happened and the Knife scale went into orbit I think, so I I'll need to source new scales now.

Mrs did not give much sympathy when she got home.....said "Well it wouldn't of happened if you'd of been doing those quotes that are pilling up " Ha !!!!

Hate it when shes right

[BIGHEAD]

Well ..............

My new sander has more power than I anticapated, I was trying to flatten the back of a scale when it caught into the base, ripped a huge flap (all of the thumb pad to the flesh, so lucky I have no site work for a couple of weeks, the knife scale is somewhere in the neighbourhood, don't think I'll see that again.

Any tips on flattening the back of scales guys ???

JT

Havedone the same thing. But was my index finger instead of thumb. Now I clamp a piece of wood across the guard so it touches the belt the when you turn iton it sands pice of wood til it clears then the gap is only mm’s so it cant catch piece and sling it.
Oh and wear gloves from now on while using sander.