I've had a chance to buy several old knives but passed because each one had a slight wobble, and to me it's a deal breaker. I'd like to hear some thoughts on this. And as always, all comers are welcome...

____________
Mike
SteelMyHeart85420 wrote:Pick up a few (cheap) and experiment. I've peened a few, over-peened a few. Experience is a great teacher
Yeah I learned about the feeler gauge the hard way. Lol.SteelMyHeart85420 wrote:I don't believe the rubber mallet is a long term solution, it'll just work it's way loose again, the pin needs to be peened---and filed and buffed/ polished, if you're all anal about it. Tis why i suggested inexpensive, non-Swinden-keyed knives to practice on. DO IT! (p.s., the feeler gauge/ slackener is a good idea, one of those "lessons learned")
On the pin.kootenay joe wrote:Dale, you say to: "give the punch a light to medium smack with the hammer" but you don't say where to place the punch.
Yeskootenay joe wrote: You describe a second method in which a center punch is placed on the pivot pin & tapped. Does one also place the punch on the pivot pin for the first method ?
If you Goggle them they are technically different tools, but either one will probably work in this case.kootenay joe wrote: And is "center punch" the same tool as a "prick punch" ?
kj
Good idea on the Vise-Grips. How big a turn do you use when you reset the pliers? I would think a full turn might be a little too much, no?rarreola wrote:Use locking pliers
Just 1/4 turnTsar Bomba wrote:Good idea on the Vise-Grips. How big a turn do you use when you reset the pliers? I would think a full turn might be a little too much, no?rarreola wrote:Use locking pliers