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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 3:38 am 
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You better watch out...... :lol:
I see you read & commenting on knife repair threads.
Knife repair & restoration is FAR MORE ADDICTING than just knife collecting! ::nod:: ::dang::
You will stop buying new knives and just buy parts knives in hopes that you can repair them. :mrgreen:

Seriously, repair is more enjoyable to me than just collecting.

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 8:38 am 
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Dale, When I read these threads I get the same buz i have when Im buying that next pocket knife for my collection.I had a couple of tools you mentioned .I went into the garage and took apart an old knife. now to put it back togather .where do I get that material for the pins ? Thanks ,Jason

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 11:31 am 
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Most Ace & True Value Hardware stores in my area carry brass pin stock.
Hardware stores, craft & model building stores would be the first places I would check.

Have fun & be sure to post pictures of your finished work.

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 10:20 pm 
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orvet wrote:
You better watch out...... :lol:
I see you read & commenting on knife repair threads.
Knife repair & restoration is FAR MORE ADDICTING than just knife collecting! ::nod:: ::dang::
You will stop buying new knives and just buy parts knives in hopes that you can repair them. :mrgreen:

Seriously, repair is more enjoyable to me than jus collecting.


Me too! My money now goes for pin stock, belts for the grinder, handle material, assorted tools (power and hand tools), and a lot of time is spent making my own special purpose tools for knife repair. Every knife is different and presents it's own challenges and that is just repair. Embellishment requires file-work, liner-work, bolster-work when called for and patience. Lots and lots of patience. Drilling a hole in Mother-of-Pearl is a whole lot different than drilling into wood or bone. While there's nothing easy about it, its addictive and every bit as enjoyable as Dale makes it sound. Come to think of it, I can't think of any logic as to why its as enjoyable as it is. It just is. I've still got a decent collection...it just doesn't get the attention it used to, or added to nearly as often.

ENJOY!

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 1:13 am 
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Elvis wrote:
Come to think of it, I can't think of any logic as to why its as enjoyable as it is. It just is. I've still got a decent collection...it just doesn't get the attention it used to, or added to nearly as often.

ENJOY!


That is so true.
I have even been known to take knives from my collection to embelish. ::facepalm::
I may even have sold a knife or two from my collection so I could buy pin stock and sanding belts. :shock:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:50 am 
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" Hi, my name is Mike, and I'm a knife repair addict"........... ::facepalm::

Seriously, I don't think I've bought a new knife in months. Everytime I see one I like, I start thinking of how I can replicate it. I think I spend more money on scale materials and pin stock than I do new knives. But the wife figures it's better (cheaper) than guitars and drums !

Say, anyone need a nice electric guitar,....... I need more project knives. ::tease::

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:17 am 
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What kind of guitar? 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 2:21 pm 
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What Would Gerald Ford Do?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 2:25 pm 
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So Jerry, you're just gonna push Granny Farquhar to the side?? ::dang::

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:06 pm 
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Ha ha ha!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:41 pm 
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I know this is an older thread but I want to jump on board and thank you for doing it. It answered several of the question I've been struggling with for a few months now. It also begged a few new question for me:

1. What is a "pin spinner" and where do I source one?
2. I've been getting the brass pin stock from my local True Value too but where can I get the nickel silver pin stock?


Thanks again!

BC


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 11:40 am 
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A pin spinner is used to finished and shape pins, especially on bone handles.

Here is one place where you can get the desired items:

http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/kv250.htm (This is Jantz Supply)

There are other places you can buy this same stuff, or maybe even get better quality, I don't know.

Some of the guys have made their own pin spinners with a set screw.

This will get you pointed in the right direction though.

Make sure to share some pictures of your work. We like knives. :mrgreen:

Glenn


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 11:08 am 
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So brass pins are ok to use on the blade pivot pin? I would have thought they would be a tad soft and you might be better off using something harder. Also you used 1/16' pins and state that the pins you removed were .070"........ 1/16" pins are .063" so you have .007" slop correct? So when you peen the pin, the slack is taken up in the hole in the blade or not? I fullt understand that you need a spacer in between the blade and the liner otherwise the blade will jam when you peen it.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 4:29 pm 
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Bearbear wrote:
So brass pins are ok to use on the blade pivot pin? I would have thought they would be a tad soft and you might be better off using something harder. Also you used 1/16' pins and state that the pins you removed were .070"........ 1/16" pins are .063" so you have .007" slop correct? So when you peen the pin, the slack is taken up in the hole in the blade or not? I fullt understand that you need a spacer in between the blade and the liner otherwise the blade will jam when you peen it.



I used nickel silver for the pivot pin; the pin through the bolsters and the pivot hole in the blade. On such a small pin I think brass would be too soft. However, Buck uses a much larger 1/8” brass pin on some of their 110 models, but since it is so much larger there is not a wear problem (at least not that I have ever seen in a 110.

The .070” brass pins were for the rocker pin (that holds the spring in place) and the end pin that holds the back end of the handles & spring in position.
In step 7 of taking the knife apart, I used a 1/16” pin punch (see pic #5) to drive the rocker pin out of the knife.

In the Reassembly step #1 you will see I used .070” brass pins. I replaced the .070” brass pins with ones the same size.




If you have any more questions just post then up here.
I am always happy to answer questions for people learning to work on their own knives.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:09 pm 
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To my understanding, you don't want an exact tight fit with the pin on the spring rocker hole or the blade tang pivot hole. You want there to be a little slop so that those parts can move just a little bit, otherwise I think you would put undue stress and wear on those pins.

But, I could be understanding that wrong...


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