All About Pocket Knives

I have two knives that have some rust on them. I would love a gentle and not harmful way to remove the rust. For starters is my Brookes and Crookes file worked four blade. It is in alright condition but has some rust almost a scarlet red color by the tang of all the blades, some are worse than others of course. This knife I would especially like to be careful with when getting rid of rust. The other one is the Irving cutlery co 7 blade horseman knife I carry on a daily basis, about a year and a half ago I was recklessly cleaning horses water buckets and got some on it. It seems when it gets really hot and humid the stag that got wet some time ago gets discolored (but goes back to a beautiful hue when the weather is better) and a little rust shows up in the corner which I normally take care of. I would love some advice on rust treatment as both issues are slightly different but need to be addressed. I would also love comments on the knives in general, especially the Brookes and Crookes knife I don't know what to think about it as it's clearly not an exhibition knife but also a little nicer than a normal mop.

I would also love to hear about how people take care of stag, specifically on an EDC knife.

Same advice you were given when you posted them a couple of weeks ago. Sharpened end of a lead pencil will remove rust without harming the metal. Some Tuf-Glide or RenWax, applied as directed on the product, will prevent rust reoccurring. RenWax will preserve and protect stag.

Nice old knives.

Ken

Thank you so much, I have used renwax on my knives now, tried the pencil thing on an old knife I didn't care about, I didn't see a lot of results just a mess of graphite. Is there a specific trick to the pencil lead thing?

Ideally use the pencil lead to clean off rust before applying anything like oils or RenWax. Rub the graphite (pencil lead) on the rusted area as if you’re scribbling on it. Wipe off the residue with a soft cloth. Examine the area and redo it if needed.

If that doesn’t remove the rust you have something more going on.You may need to clean the knife using lukewarm mild soapy water and/or a mild solvent (isopropyl alcohol or mineral spirits). Rinse and dry it thoroughly with compressed air and be sure all water is out of the joints and spaces between the liners and springs, etc. WD-40 is a good water displacer (that’s what “WD” stands for in the name). After everything is thoroughly dry, oil the joints, apply the protectant to blades and covers, and you should be good.

Recommend taking some time to read through the posts referenced here before you proceed further. As you will learn there are many methods depending upon the degree of cleaning your knife requires. Techniques and materials more aggressive than the aforementioned risk removal of metal and damage to the knife. Proceed with caution - metal removed cannot be put back.
https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kn ... 37&t=54157

Ken

Thank you I will adhere to your advice and look through those references.

The first time that I tried a pencil, I expected for it to leave the steel nice and shiny.
It does not. The pencil lead will scrub away the active rust, but the metal will still be stained from it. The pencil will not clean off the patina, which is an oxide layer that actually protects the steel (similar to gun bluing!). It will leave the metal looking brown or grey, but that is actually what you want in an old knife.

Reverand wrote: ↑Sat Apr 26, 2025 3:10 am The first time that I tried a pencil, I expected for it to leave the steel nice and shiny.
It does not. The pencil lead will scrub away the active rust, but the metal will still be stained from it. The pencil will not clean off the patina, which is an oxide layer that actually protects the steel (similar to gun bluing!). It will leave the metal looking brown or grey, but that is actually what you want in an old knife.

Good point! Pencil lead will remove red rust but will not remove the grey patina. Most folks like patina. As Reverand said, although patina is also a form of iron oxide it will help retard active red rust. Some folks will intentionally induce patina on a knife exactly for that reason.

If you want your knife to be shiny mirror finished like it came from the factory, the pencil lead will not do that. To achieve that polished finish requires removing some metal - how much depends on how deep the rust has penetrated the metal. Many new collectors think they want a knife to be “like new” shiny. Although counter-intuitive, doing so will possibly decrease the knife’s value, again depending on how much metal has to be removed. In reality a knife will only have a “factory mint” finish once. A knowledgeable collector will know it has been “cleaned”. Personally I think an old knife should look like…..an old knife. That’s irrelevant. In the end it’s your knife, to do with as you want.

Ken

new2knives1568 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 25, 2025 11:48 pm I.....

Picture #1. A tip from a January 1929, New York newspaper.
TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Picture #2. Another tip from a May 1933, New York newspaper.
TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Lol I might try it on a knife I don't care about just for fun

I've forced patina using a onion on a cheap carbon steel RR and didn't care for the result to dark to suit me, now good old USA carbon steel the results may have great.

Thanks for the onion tip, Skip. I might stick an old Imperial in one to see the results.

I agree with Ken, you don't want your grandma wearing a miniskirt. Old knives should look old.

1967redrider wrote: ↑Sun Apr 27, 2025 4:24 pm Thanks.....

You're welcome, John.