All About Pocket Knives

This isn't a rare or monetarily valuable knife, but it was Grandpa's and I'd like to take a stab at making it complete again.

It's a Case XX 6265 that the main blade is missing after shearing away the nail. Made sometime between 1940 and 1970 I think (not sure as the tang stamp is gone). I manufacture and service leatherworking machinery for a living and enjoy machining and fabrication, so while this would be my first folding knife job of this magnitude, I think I have the resources to make it happen. Case already no-quoted the repair due to its age, but if there are any other knife makers out there who have experience with a job like this, I'd be interested in an estimate.

I have another complete 6265 that I can make a tracing of the blade from, but the hinge and lock geometry may take a little trial and error, so I might make a dummy piece first that folds well, then transfer those dimensions to the actual blade blank.

Material? We use D2 alot at work for machine based blades we make, and A2 for moving parts, and have ovens and procedure in place to heat treat them easily. I haven't done much with 1095 which I think is similar to what Case would have used, but I know I have a lot of O1 sitting of the self in need of a job. Any advise which to use? Thanks in advance if anyone can provide any pointers.

If I can pull this off, I've got at least one more missing-blade Case (smaller yet to be positively identified) that I'll try to save.

I have made several replacement blades for knives with broken blades. I always use 1095, because that's what most of the originals used. It's simple to heat treat 1095. Since you have to take the other blade out to work on the knife, just copy the pivot end from that blade.

I had one very similar to yours, I redid it like this:

https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kn ... et+chopper

If you have to tools to make a blade, as well as the ability to heat treat it, then making a blade would probably make you the happiest with the knife. It could be a great way to honor your grandfather.
If you wish to keep the knife as original as possible, you could always just remove the spring from the missing blade and make it a single-bladed knife.
Here is a link where I did this to one with a broken blade.
https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kn ... hp?t=78858

Of course I also replaced the handles on mine, but it was a knife that I bought that had no sentimental value to me.
This would be a simpler repair, but you might not be as happy with it.
If you do choose to make a new blade for yours, I suggest you first buy a couple of junk knives that mean nothing to you, and practice with them first. I would hate for you to make a "rookie" mistake with your grandfather's knife that would ruin it.

By all means take care with those beautiful worm groove jigged bone handle covers! If you really want to make a replacement blade yourself, you’ve received good advice from knowledgeable folks already. If it was my knife I would look for a donor knife of the same XX vintage that has a good blade. Tgat would return it to its original authentic state. I’ve seen 6265s with missing/broken blades offered for sale on eBay and other sources. You just have to be watchful and patient. If you get tired of looking you can always fall back to making a blade.

Ken

Thank you for all the replies! Using the other blade as a pattern for the hinge end is a good idea. I hadn't considered it would be the same geometry.

I think the first order of business will be to remove the old sheared pin ends and the existing blade, as that will need to be done whichever direction this goes. From there I can practice making a blade and see if an original turns up.

Been busy, but finally getting back around to this project. Had a stroke of luck in that I found my dad had a 2nd 6265 Tha also belonged to my grandpa. It's complete, but has a broken pin, so while it's apart to change the pin, I'm using it's blade as a pattern to reproduce the other missing blade.

I'm using a leftover bit of O1 flat stock that is a little thicker than needed so it can be ground down. I drilled the pivot hole first to give a central reference between the stock and pattern blade, then traced the outline in dykem and added some to the edge. I next did what I thought would be the trickiest feature, the nail mark, but it turned out to be easy. Held the stock at a 45 on the mill and used a flycutter at about 3 3/4" diameter to sneak into the depth and it gave the needed flat side and crescent. It's a little deeper intentionally so that it will get shallower when I surface grind the extra stock off.

Next I cut it out on the bandsaw and started grinding the different sides to match the pattern, though I'm leaving a little extra where the spring fits, so I can fit it to the knife later.

Next I'll surface grind it to the right th8ckness, and taper the sides. I'm undecided how I'll mark it, but I might stamp the "case xx" script along with my initials or our old family brand. Once that is done and most of the stock is ground to size, I'll heat treat it, do the final fit and assembly, and put an edge on it.

Go easy on me! It's my first folding blade! Lol

"Go easy"?
Brother, that is an awesome job!
I cannot wait to see the finished product!

Is the kick on the new blade big enough to hold the cutting edge away from the spring? When I make blades I always make the kick very oversize to allow for fitting.

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Wed Nov 20, 2024 12:00 pm Is the kick on the new blade big enough to hold the cutting edge away from the spring? When I make blades I always make the kick very oversize to allow for fitting.

I didn't notice until you mentioned it, but it sure looks like the blade will hit the spring.

Thanks that's a good point. The kick is the same between the two blades, but I added more to the edge to account for sharpenings. I'll make sure that as the edge and point get beveled the edge moves back as well. Better to have too much material than not enough.

More progress. On the right is the original blade, next is the first replacment which has some issues, beside that is the 2nd replacment, and on the left Is another blade I'm making for a smaller case that is old enough I dont think it has a model. The fitment of the first replacment seems ok other than I need to grind the bevel back more since I left too much material on the bottom. I'm going to finish it as a spare, but decided to start over for the actual blade I'll use in this knife. Biggest issue with the first blade is that the stamping came out wrong and its already been surface ground to thickness so can't grind down and restamp. The "case xx" stamping was too large, the 's' stamp was damaged and came out weird, and I stamped it too close to the hinge where the 'xx' won't be visible. The 2ndblade stamped much better and I used a smaller font. On the back I used a new stamp that came in the mail today. It's a custom stamp recreating our families old brand.

A friend who makes fixed blade knives is helping me grind the bevel as he has fixtures all read to go. After the bevels are all done, I think I'll be ready to heat treat and do the final assembly. I have some stainless pins to use for the hinges, though I'm still waiting on some brass to make the brass center pin from.

Looks great! Though I wish you would use a custom tang stamp that is clearly different than the original. That would avoid confusion over counterfeiting in years to come.
Also, if you can find some silvered nickel pins they will match the bolsters and are less likely to show afterward. Your stainless pins will show, though they will be stronger than original.
Keep us posted!

Yes, stamping the blades Case XX is not the correct thing to do. They should be made with your mark on the pile side.

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Wed Dec 04, 2024 12:39 pm Yes, stamping the blades Case XX is not the correct thing to do.

Amen! And the apparent ease with which he is able to do it should be an eye-opener to everyone!

To the OP, I am assuming (I know, that’s dangerous) you’re not a knife collector, and therefore probably not aware the curse which counterfeits have been to the knife collecting hobby. I know - you’re only doing it for yourself and have no intention of selling the knife. Regardless of your intention, some day like it or not, you will not have control over what happens to the knife. It very likely will outlive you, and pass into the hands of another person. Not your problem? No, but it could become the problem of a collector who becomes the unknowing owner of a counterfeit knife.

The right thing to do is NOT stamp CASE on the replacement blade you’re fabricating, but stamp it with your brand. The date when you made it would also be advisable and helpful to a future owner. JMO. In case you’re curious about the prevalence and meaning of counterfeiting to the knife collecting community, there have been books written on the subject. https://www.abebooks.com/9780966102802/ ... 102800/plp Or simply do an internet search for “counterfeit cutlery”. For some more info see this subforum here, focused on counterfeits viewforum.php?f=17

Ken

Thanks for the feedback. I understand the concern with making a counterfeit. My goal was to stamp the name but make it obvious it wasn't original (not as straight and not the same font), then have the brand stamp on the otherside, but in the future I'll leave it off. If I could have bought an OEM blade I would have, but Case said they weren't available anymore.

Also correct that I'm not selling these, but I agree that someday they'll be someone else's and they might not know the knives full history.

Thanks for your understanding. Unfortunately a lot of collectors are naive, and assume a knife is what its stamp says it is, regardless what that stamp or the rest of the knife says. Then when/if they learn the truth and realize they spent hard-earned money for a phony, they are turned off of the hobby.

Ken

Finally got everything finished on these. Setting the pins I probably could have done better by making some fixtures and pads, but I was able to make due with pin punches, a rivet doming punch, and a ball peen. I also stamped "O1" on the new blade to note what it was made from, though I'm sure it'll confuse people thinking the blade was made in 2001. I also didn't thin the blade down as much as the original. It works fine so I'm going to consider it another sign of it not being an original. Between heat treating and annealing, the O1 came out a bit softer than I had hoped at 50 to 52 Rockwell, but I do like the dark and scaled finish it gained as it blends in nicely with the older steel parts around it that have years of rust stain. In the pictures, the original knife that served as a pattern is on top. It needed a new hinge pin and some polishing. The scales were very dry and "boney", but brightened up nicely when I was oiling the blades. The bottom knife is the one with the new blade. I'm passing the original on to my brother, and I'm keeping the one with the new blade.

You are indeed skilled!

Very Nice!

Looks great!