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My friend i can help you there, had great success with this method on really dried out leather. As Ken stated get yourself some saddle soap or leather cleaner can be sourced at a good saddlery or horse gear supplier. And some good leather conditioner, a reputable supplier will give you the right advise as to what is best for your needs. Give the leather a really good clean with the saddle soap, and old toothbrush is ideal, my take a couple of goes just make sure it dries between coats. Then just lather on the conditioner, and let soak in and dry, then keep reapplying, may take several coats. Will completely reinvigorate your sheath. This is what i use, but won't be available over there, but you will be able to source something similar.
I have had this conditioner for over 25 years and still going strong, a little goes a long way, and is great on work boots. This stuff has been made here for over 100 years so they must be doing something right. If you need any help just ask. 
Not sure if that is available in North America. There are a lot of very good substitutes here though.cudgee wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 10:16 pmMy friend i can help you there, had great success with this method on really dried out leather. As Ken stated get yourself some saddle soap or leather cleaner can be sourced at a good saddlery or horse gear supplier. And some good leather conditioner, a reputable supplier will give you the right advise as to what is best for your needs. Give the leather a really good clean with the saddle soap, and old toothbrush is ideal, my take a couple of goes just make sure it dries between coats. Then just lather on the conditioner, and let soak in and dry, then keep reapplying, may take several coats. Will completely reinvigorate your sheath. This is what i use, but won't be available over there, but you will be able to source something similar.
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Your on the right track my friend, and what may seem expensive at the time works out really cheap over time, quality always wins. I am well into my sixties and the bottle of leather oil i posted is only the second i have ever had to purchase and there is still some left. If you need any more help or advise just ask mate.cody6268 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 01, 2021 3:10 am Thanks guys. I will be picking up some good saddle soap and mink oil next time I'm at Tractor Supply. I had cans of each from Dollar General, and neither is any good.
I used a bit of Huberd's Shoe Oil, and the first coat seemed to make a slight difference. Problem is that was almost the last of it I had. I have never seen it locally, so I'll have to order some. It is mostly what I use on my boots after cleaning them.
Saddle soap will clean but not do anything to help dry leather...it actually will adjust the ph level of the leather...after a good cleaning ( saddle soap ) let it dry well and then use leather conditioner ( Fiebings Aussie saddle care ) or simular conditioner!! Do this in 3-4 light applications...you will see a difference!Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:29 pm Start with saddle soap, follow the directions on the can. That should restore and re-hydrate the leather. Here’s an older thread on the same subject, recommending several leather conditioning products.
https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kn ... hilit=Bick
Ken
Carry on!As for the claim the “basic ingredient” in WD-40 is “fish oil,” it’s a common rumor and one that is easily propagated (because cans of WD-40 spray include no ingredients list), but a glance at the composition information included in the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for WD-40 aerosol indicates the product is primarily petroleum-based, with the main ingredient being “solvent naptha, petroleum, medium aliphatic” (also known as Stoddard Solvent):
solvent naphtha petroleum, medium aliphatic, > 60%
petroleum base oil as paraffinic distillate, heavy, solvent-dewaxed (severe), 15% to 25%
corrosion inhibitor unregulated, 1% to 10%
wetting agent unregulated, 1% to 10%
fragrance unregulated, 0% to 1%
carbon dioxide, 2% to 3%
Very interesting, i have used Ballistol on leather and it works but really darkens it and has a shocking smell for a while. You don't happen to know what it's ingredients are by any chance. I don't trust a lot of things on google.Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Fri Mar 04, 2022 3:20 am Not sure how to delicately say this, but in the interest of providing factual, accurate information regarding prior posts made in this thread, I’ll just post a few facts.
First, ingredients of saddle soap, from a well-known and widely available brand. Note in addition to a fine soap it is “formulated with glycerin and lanolin……..with wax” - click to enlarge and read the label:
249CE53B-F34F-47C7-B91E-A2F1BAB4305E.jpeg
Second, although a widely speculated rumor on the internet, WD-40 does not contain fish oil. Full disclosure - it took me about 2 minutes to find the WD-40 MSDS and the Snopes post dispelling the fish oil ingredients tale:
Carry on!As for the claim the “basic ingredient” in WD-40 is “fish oil,” it’s a common rumor and one that is easily propagated (because cans of WD-40 spray include no ingredients list), but a glance at the composition information included in the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for WD-40 aerosol indicates the product is primarily petroleum-based, with the main ingredient being “solvent naptha, petroleum, medium aliphatic” (also known as Stoddard Solvent):
solvent naphtha petroleum, medium aliphatic, > 60%
petroleum base oil as paraffinic distillate, heavy, solvent-dewaxed (severe), 15% to 25%
corrosion inhibitor unregulated, 1% to 10%
wetting agent unregulated, 1% to 10%
fragrance unregulated, 0% to 1%
carbon dioxide, 2% to 3%
Ken
cudgee you can find the basic ingredients for almost any product by looking up its Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). The manufacturer is required, at least if it’s sold in the U.S.A., to provide the MSDS. Some other countries require the same. In this case I did a search for “Ballistol MSDS” which brought me to this http://www.ballistol.com/wp-content/upl ... CH_BIO.pdf. On this one the ingredients are on page 3. The primary ingredient is mineral oil.
You haven't derailed the thread. It's a great learning curve to learn of different products that are used for leather applications.Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Fri Mar 04, 2022 4:23 amcudgee you can find the basic ingredients for almost any product by looking up its Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). The manufacturer is required, at least if it’s sold in the U.S.A., to provide the MSDS. Some other countries require the same. In this case I did a search for “Ballistol MSDS” which brought me to this http://www.ballistol.com/wp-content/upl ... CH_BIO.pdf. On this one the ingredients are on page 3. The primary ingredient is mineral oil.
I found several MSDS for Ballistol including aerosol, liquid, and multi-purpose versions. There may be others. Apparently the contents differ depending on the version of the product - aerosol would obviously contain some propellant which a liquid version would not need - but the basic ingredients are likely similar or identical.
Sorry to de-rail the thread.
Ken
Saddle soap is to CLEAN leather....leather conditioner will give it back its moisture and oils needed not to crack and brake!!Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:29 pm Start with saddle soap, follow the directions on the can. That should restore and re-hydrate the leather. Here’s an older thread on the same subject, recommending several leather conditioning products.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=51259&hilit=Bick
Ken
All I know is what I read on the product label, and my personal experience using the product. The saddle soap I use, in addition to soap for cleaning, says it is "formulated with glycerin and lanolin to make leather soft and supple".Alien883 wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 3:26 amSaddle soap is to CLEAN leather....leather conditioner will give it back its moisture and oils needed not to crack and brake!!Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:29 pm Start with saddle soap, follow the directions on the can. That should restore and re-hydrate the leather. Here’s an older thread on the same subject, recommending several leather conditioning products.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=51259&hilit=Bick
Ken
If you read ALL of my post, I also referred to using other leather conditioning products in addition to saddle soap. You are correct, first comes the cleaning effect to rid all grime and dirt, but all saddle soaps need to have lanolin oil or simular in it to keep the leather from getting stiff after drying...this causes the pores to stay open ( alas softer) now comes the long term effect...now you use leather conditioner...these fine oils mixed with waxes will seal these fine pores and keep the leather for a long time soft, playable and workable...which is obviously a different task...nobody will have long term soft playable leather using saddle soap only...I guess that's why they make leather conditioner in the first place to be a final application! And....yes, I have been doing just that for 30+ years making custom leather holsters, belts bags and saddle repair!!Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 3:52 amAll I know is what I read on the product label, and my personal experience using the product. The saddle soap I use, in addition to soap for cleaning, says it is "formulated with glycerin and lanolin to make leather soft and supple".Alien883 wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 3:26 amSaddle soap is to CLEAN leather....leather conditioner will give it back its moisture and oils needed not to crack and brake!!Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:29 pm Start with saddle soap, follow the directions on the can. That should restore and re-hydrate the leather. Here’s an older thread on the same subject, recommending several leather conditioning products.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=51259&hilit=Bick
Ken
Works great for me. Maybe your brand contains only soap?
Carry on!
Ken