BamaFatman wrote:I was at the Parker show today and I trade and got a piece of Damascus that I would like to try and make a knife from. This piece is approximately 12" x 1 1/4" x 3/16". I would like to hand file it and I don't know what kind of file or where I might get a pattern to use for making this knife. I do know I will make a fix blade. I would like to be able to say I can make one of those before tackling a folder.
So question is , what file is best to use and where might I find a patter for blades so I can decide what I want it to look like.
Looks similar to Alabama Damascus, or one of there patterns.
I always recommend starting out with a purchased blade to put a handle on and go from there.
I would also recommend that you start with some annealed 1080 before you tackle Damascus. I can recommend Good steel suppliers if you need them.
IMO, it's good to start with a fixed blade and you can do filework if you wish. Unfortunately I have no idea where to find patterns; I would just start drawing until you see something you like. You will need a hacksaw to cut the knife out.
Once you have a knife blade made you need to think about the next step. For Damascus etching is next, that is after the knife has been shaped. I use 3:1 or 4:1 - water:Ferric Chloride. Etching is best if it is slow and steady. I have heard of guys etching with vinegar and water, but have never tried it.
Nicholson, Simmonds, and Oregon brands are best, IMO. What I like about Nicholson is that when you wear it out, you can make a nice knife because it's 1095, I don't know the others. Toss it in the wood stove/fireplace so it gets real hot and let it cool with the ashes until you can hold it by hand (annealing).
Following the etching and cleanup heat treating is next also for carbon steel. Damascus will be around 1500F and soaking at that temerature for a bit.
(I would need to look in my heat treating guide at the primary steel, but there are generic recipes for Damascus) Once the heat treating is complete it will need an oil quench. The oil should be heated to 140F to help avoid thermal shock and the blade is quenched in oil until it can be held by hand. Differential heat treat is best left to solid carbon steel IMO because the Hamon it creates interferes with the Damascus pattern. Clean up the blade of all it's oil residue.
Once it is heat treated it is brittle and will need to be tempered down to it's desired hardness and I get my temps out of the heat treater's guide
($249.00 for Ferrous Metals) and draw it down to say 56 to 58 Rc. I recommend a double temper and sometimes add a cryo temper (dry ice or liquid nitrogen sandwiched between the 2 heat tempers, a heat temper should be last.
I have left a lot out such as edge thickness at heat treat and a couple other things, some use a powdered scale reducer from Brownell's to reduce scale that develops when steel is exposed to high heat. Scale can be tough to remove.
I just finished writing this and If I remember right; you have someone to help you with this. SOoo, I have put more in here than you need.
Sorry about that!
Oh well, carbon 1080 is fairly cheap and I would go with that before attempting Damascus. But if you have someone to walk you through it, it would be extremely helpful.
Good luck!
