All About Pocket Knives

The first real knife mom would let me have was a Kamp King back in the day, so I have always had a soft spot in my heart (head) for them. I have customized a few and this is the latest conversion from the shell handled original. I used the original blades, springs, and inner divider and spacer. New brass liners, nickle silver bolsters, and handle material was added. Drilling the new brass liners with the old steel one as a template. 1/8" nickle silver for the bolsters
When I do these, I silver solder the bolsters onto the new brass liners after first drilling two 1/16" holes from inside the liner half way through the bolster to make two "posts" of silver solder. I have done some wood handled ones and a Kirinite Patriot one with brass bolsters, but I wanted to do this one in stag.
Before Finished I know what you are saying, even if you put a tuxedo on a pig, it is still just a pig. LOL

Nice work, OC.
Working on old “pig” stickers is fun!
Great execution on the liners/bolsters/stag.

I too have a 'soft spot' for the old Imperial shell handle 'scout type' knives because as a boy in the 1950's these were displayed in the corner hardware store.
I like your conversion to a solid handle knife. It is in a class of it's own !
kj

kootenay joe wrote:I too have a 'soft spot' for the old Imperial shell handle 'scout type' knives because as a boy in the 1950's these were displayed in the corner hardware store.
I like your conversion to a solid handle knife. It is in a class of it's own !
kj

If memory serves me they used to cost 75 cents about 60 years ago.

O.C., i was in Montreal but cannot recall what our Canadian price was. They were less money than any other brand they carried.
I don't recall seeing Colonial knives. Perhaps they did not export much to Eastern Canada ?
kj

O C, just wondering if you are using true silver solder (melts over 1100 degrees farenheit) or the lead/tin based "silver solder" which melts around 450 degrees.

Very nice work! I'm just starting to play around with taking knives apart, and trying to get them back together. I like your idea about the solder hole, I'll be sure to try it out, next time. I can only hope to get half as nice of a job done! (I used Easy Flow Silver Solder)

Really nice work!
I don't see anything wrong with making a silk purse out of a sows ear.
That is a nice looking silk purse!

Way to go!!

Mike

Gunsil wrote:O C, just wondering if you are using true silver solder (melts over 1100 degrees farenheit) or the lead/tin based "silver solder" which melts around 450 degrees.

The product I have is Oatey Safe Flo silver lead free plumbing solder. Melting range stated on the package is 420-460 degrees. It says the ingredients are tin, copper, bismuth, and silver, but does not list the percentage of each.

Excellent work OC. I'd say you're a "multi-talented" individual. Very nice.

___________
Mike

Looking good, OC!

know what you are saying, even if you put a tuxedo on a pig, it is still just a pig.

It may be just a pig OC but it's a great pig dressed up in its finery. Nice job! ...carry it with pride.

Dennis

I got a couple of Kamp King's , I'm going to try that.

That is one fine come up fancy dressed Pig!
Nice work!!

That is great work. When you get time why not make a soldering tutorial. It would be greatly appreciated. That is a great idea to make soldering posts. Getting those bolsters on and getting them straight is not as easy as you make it seem.

just bob wrote:That is great work. When you get time why not make a soldering tutorial. It would be greatly appreciated. That is a great idea to make soldering posts. Getting those bolsters on and getting them straight is not as easy as you make it seem.

In the 4th picture you can see that when I solder the bolsters on, at that point they are a little oversize. I put a center line with a fine point sharpie on the outside of the liner and mark a square line from that centerline to square up the bolsters. I clamp the bolsters to the liners and drill the two 1/16" holes for the silver solder "posts". Then to solder them on, with the inside of the liner facing up, and the pieces still clamped together, just wave the propane torch underneath carefully until you can touch the solder to the metal and have it melt and flow into the holes. After soldering, the bolsters can be taken down to match the liners with the disc or belt sander, and the pin holes drilled. I also use this "post" method to repair bolsters that have come apart from the liners. I am working on an old Boker that had nickle silver bolsters spot welded to nickle silver liners. One of the spot welds failed and the bolster came off. After taking the knife apart for a rebuild, I fixed it with the soldered post method. It seems to be very solid, especially after the pins are re riveted.
Make sure to degrease the metal parts with acetone or similar before soldering.

Very nice tips and good work!! I was pretty sure when you said silver solder you meant the low melting stuff, few use the true silver solder since it requires so much more heat. The real silver solder has hundreds of times more strength than the low temp stuff but it is much harder to use and requires more clean-up. I make silver and gold jewelry and use the high temp solder all the time, have only had very little experience with the low temp solder. High temp or true silver soldering is actually more like silver brazing but man, it is strong.

Gunsil wrote:Very nice tips and good work!! I was pretty sure when you said silver solder you meant the low melting stuff, few use the true silver solder since it requires so much more heat. The real silver solder has hundreds of times more strength than the low temp stuff but it is much harder to use and requires more clean-up. I make silver and gold jewelry and use the high temp solder all the time, have only had very little experience with the low temp solder. High temp or true silver soldering is actually more like silver brazing but man, it is strong.

I found another partial roll of silver solder in my tool box and it says on the package that the mixture is 4% silver, and 96% tin. Plenty strong for this purpose. Probably a lot cheaper that high temp silver solder too.

Yeah the 96% tin solder is plenty for bolsters on folders, and you are correct, a lot cheaper than high temp silver solder.

Yet another Kamp King conversion I have done recently. This one has Culpepper Amber Richmond bone handles. As usual, the shell handles and steel liners are removed and discarded after using one of the liners as a drill template. Bolsters soldered on using the post method shown above. New .032" brass liners and 1/8" nickel silver bolsters Taper reaming the pin holes New parts to replace old parts Those of you who have had Kamp Kings apart, what does "evenback" mean as stamped inside the spacers? Finished

Desirable knife now. I enjoy your work and the pics.

They look amazing

What a beauty!

glennbad wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17, 2023 1:58 pm What a beauty!

Well, except for the pins. Still can't get that to work.

kootenay joe wrote: ↑Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:54 pm O.C., i was in Montreal but cannot recall what our Canadian price was. They were less money than any other brand they carried.
I don't recall seeing Colonial knives. Perhaps they did not export much to Eastern Canada ?
kj

Kotenay joe,
You certainly triggered some memories for me.

I recall that 60 or more, years back, that the big Australian general goods chain stores carried many pocket knives of all brands and sizes.

From memory they were probably 3" and under.

They where all displayed in glass sided " boxes " on the shop counter tops. Just the thing to make my 11 year old mouth water.

I had more of a chance of flying to the moon than my Mum allowing me to buy one.

However despite that setback, I never tired of looking at the variety of these wonderful items every time we went to town.
Now days there is legislation that prohibits anyone carrying a knife unless they can prove it is used in their trade.Shortly the government is introducing legislation to prohibit sale of any knife to those under 16 years of age. Stabbings have become common place, unfortunately.

Thanks Reverand for your advice.

Thank you old Cutler for the wonder example photos.It gives me something to aspire to.
Thanks
Ozwelder