Techmans first try at Mammoth Tooth

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GECTECHMAN
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Techmans first try at Mammoth Tooth

Post by GECTECHMAN »

Please be kind I did not do a great job. The tooth is pretty good looking though. I think I will carry this one because I got a desire to try it again. Off to buy some more handle material.
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GECTECHMAN

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gmusic
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Post by gmusic »

Looks good to me!

That's some wild looking tooth there........................
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Classic Case
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Post by Classic Case »

looks good to me ::tu::
Chris - I'd give my right arm to be ambidexterous.
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Post by Hukk »

Looks like some of tooth from Charles Turnage. He has some nice looking stuff at the present, I always watch him and crazyfoxrb on ebay. crazyfoxrb (Ron) doesn't sell very often, usually some extra he had from selling to some top notch guys and outfits, including William Henry. Here is a piece that I bought last October.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0163789793

Looks good to me Techman, Careful - it does get in your blood real quick!
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useem
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Post by useem »

I like it ::tu:: Reminds me of a melted "Good Humor" ice cream bar. i like those too :D
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marcinek
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Post by marcinek »

Excellent job! I like it alot too...congratulations and nice work!
John
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Post by pmike5869 »

Here is my meager effort. Bought a kit from Texas knife makers supply and added snakewood. Sent it off to Jim Downing for the engraving.
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jonet143
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Post by jonet143 »

welcome to the site and nice job. show us more!
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Classic Case
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Post by Classic Case »

very nice job ::tu:: and ::welcome:: to the site. ::tu::
Chris - I'd give my right arm to be ambidexterous.
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gmusic
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Post by gmusic »

Welcome pmike!

Nice work on the kit knife.............it looks good! Drop into the "member introductions" forum and give us a shout!


Gary
http://www.musicmadeknives.com

Rodger, (Rodger-50/2050), Bill (El Lobo), Johnny Fain (jonet143), Johnny Samples (Johnnyrotten),
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Please feel free to contact any mod or admin with concerns.
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Diligence
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Post by Diligence »

Excellent work! Welcome aboard.

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orvet
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Post by orvet »

Nice work.
I like Snakewood.

::welcome:: aboard!

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sunburst
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Post by sunburst »

That baby is sharp!!!! You did a great job in my opinion..

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pmike5869
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What a nice welcome!

Post by pmike5869 »

Thx for the kind compliments and the warm welcome. Took the advice to "log in" and left more pics. This is a great site. Just started to collect sunfish and found this site a tremendous help.
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Post by pmike5869 »

That mammoth tooth knife is awesome!!! Might try to use some of it but I bet that stuff is fragile and delicate to work. Sometimes the risk is worth it. Just made some grips for a birdshead Vaquero pistol using elephant ivory and sweated the whole time I worked with that stuff.
GECTECHMAN
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Post by GECTECHMAN »

Yes it is, I dropped a piece while sanding it on my second attempt, now I have 3 pieces. OOps Now what?
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Post by Hukk »

GECTECHMAN wrote:Yes it is, I dropped a piece while sanding it on my second attempt, now I have 3 pieces. OOps Now what?
Glue it together with Cyanoacrylate (CA or a superglue of your choice). I would recommend one with an accelorator and glue - a 2 part Loctite. The types I'm thinking of have an expiration date cost about $17 for the kit and you can be working on your knife in 15 minutes. ::ds:: Pay attention to the expiration date, toss it, if it's out of date. This is not the place to use Devcon ::barf::

Glue together on a flat surface (tooth surface that is glued to the liners down - on the wax paper) and use wax paper because it can be ground off quickly. ::tu::

DO NOT USE THE GEL Accraglass to glue the tooth to the liner.


Now to glue the tooth to the liner - If you have a scale or syringe you can acurately measure out Accraglass. Yep the suff they use for bedding rifle barrels make great glue for knives. You can also use that 2 part Loctite to glue the tooth scales to the liners.

I also like the K&G epoxy because it takes 24 hours to cure (slow is good) and they have powdered dyes to use with the epoxy. So, it can match a lot of different colors.

Last but not least - don't drop it again - if so, repeat process. ::tear::

One of the best all around epoxies (after your scale is repaired) is WEST SYSTEM ® Brand epoxy. Great stuff, it's made primarily for the boating industry but it's great on knives! ::tu:: ::tu::

http://www.westsystem.com/
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Post by orvet »

Hukk,
What is wrong with Accraglas gel?
Would the non-gel Accraglas work?

Just curious,
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Post by Hukk »

orvet wrote:Hukk,
What is wrong with Accraglas gel?
Would the non-gel Accraglas work?

Just curious,
Dale
It's thicker and in wood does not penetrate. In tooth, there are small pores (in some) and it will not penetrate into these. That's what I hear from the massive glue test on another site, Ive seen your name over there also.

Non gel, the original Brownell's Accraglas is what is preferred. An awful lot of those knifemakers use it. Ed Caffrey buy a big quantity of it at the beginning of each year.
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orvet
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Post by orvet »

Thanks Hukk,
I was just wondering if you had used Accraglas gel and were speaking from experience?
I want to get some of the regular Accraglas and try it in some hidden tang knives. I just wanted to talk to someone who had used the Accraglas in any form.
Hukk wrote:That's what I hear from the massive glue test on another site, Ive seen your name over there also.
For those of you who don’t know of the famous Glue Test here is the link:
http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showt ... 463&page=2

Here is the link to the results posted on Tracy Mickley’s web site:
http://mickleyknives.com/html/page_25.html


I talked to Tracy last week. Nice guy (typical of knife makers/collectors). He was telling me about the new knife makers supply company he has started. He has some nice stuff and good prices. I can see myself doing more business with him. I guess he bought USA Knife Makers Supply and merged his company with it.
Here is the link to USA Knife Makers Supply:
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/

I did buy some of Tracy’s 2-part epoxy. It is the same as K & G’s; in fact the packages are almost identical except for the name. He said it is a private label golf shaft epoxy. I haven’t used it yet, but will soon.

Dale
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Post by Hukk »

Actually Devcon is just fine for a hidden tang -- BUT NO Polyurethane or any expanding type glues. Accraglass costs $17 or $18 and the $3 Devcon will work just as well in a hidden tang. Save the expensive stuff for full tang. ::tu:: Use the 2 hour unless you are experienced enough for 5 min, I just use the 2 Hr and hidden tang is the only place I use Devcon, otherwise I have no use for it.

I have used regular Accraglass and it comes with 2 small portions of black dye and brown dye, a drop or 2 of dye is plenty for the amount you need to mix for a knife.

HINT: Go to the feed store and pick up a bunch of 10CC syringes or larger, no need for a needle, you ever stick yourself with one of those needles that are meant to pierce hide, dang that hurts. ::doh:: From my days on the cattle ranch.

Use a syringe to measure out the 2 components of Accraglass and mix vigorously per the directions. You will save a lot of Accraglass by using a syringe. ::tu:: Always keep a bunch of those 4 oz paper cups around to mix this stuff in and some extra popsicle sticks. I have found this to be the best method for me lately.

I like the epoxy for K&G, I will check out Tracy's epoxy. As long as I can add a dye, I can use it.

BTW, I like Accraglass and now use it or K&G epoxy exclusively on full tang fixed blades.
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Post by Darksev »

The Infamous Glue Thread :D

I loved watching that unfold, I still reference back to it all the time. It was like watching a mad scientist work ::tu::
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Post by Hukk »

It's a VERY informative thread and valuable for reference also. There are a few adhesives I'd like to see added. Real surprising to see Polyurethane type adhesives having the best wood to metal adhesion with Accraglass being second. I still prefer Accraglass and K&G epoxy over Gorilla Glue or Sumo glue. Also the JB weld not rating high. I repaired a 220v motor with JB weld in 1990 because the parts were $$$$.

BTW, It's still running. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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orvet
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Post by orvet »

I believe the rating for the polyurethane glues. ::tu::

When I was first starting to make knives I used Gorilla glue on the advise of my neighbor who makes musical instruments. I had to take a set of handles off a full tang fix blade that I had glued on with Gorilla glue. The wood broke on both sides. On one side I could not get part of the wood off. I finally had to sand it off with my belt sander. :lol:

I have since switched to Sumo glue because it doesn’t foam as bad as the Gorilla glue does and seems to adhere just as well.

Dale
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Post by Darksev »

I've been wondering that myself. I use Gorilla glue, and I've been half tempted to try Sumo just for that reason. foaming is a PITA, but essential I guess.

The easiest way I've found to get a handle off once I've Gorilla'd it is kinda funny. In a box of my grandfather's stuff (a knife or two may have been found in there :wink: ) I found a box/cartridge of old Gillette safety razor blades. super thin and super sharp, I slip that between the scale and liner and work it through the glue. Still a pain, and you gotta be careful but it works ::tu::
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