All About Pocket Knives

I’ve seen it done two ways but I’m not sure what would be better. Is it better to solder or two part epoxy? I made brass liners and bolsters for a Colonial fish knife and I just want to make sure they don’t come off. I use two part epoxy for just about everything and I’m confident in its holding ability but this is a custom knife I’m making for a close friend as a retirement gift and I want it done right. What’s everyone opinion?

For brass to brass soldering would appeal to me. --------- I am not a knife mechanic.

I prefer soldering. I have never used epoxy, though I have seen German made knives that had nothing to bond the bolster to the liner. The pivot pinhole was tapered and it was the pin that held the bolsters in place. The disadvantage of that method is that as the knife wears, the bolsters themselves can become loose. That is exactly what happened on two or three of those knives with that construction that I have seen.
I'm not sure that epoxy is strong enough to take the stress of the sharp impact that occur when a knife is dropped on the floor and hits bolster first.

You can pin the bolster to the brass liner. That's what I've always done.

American Blade 92 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2026 3:57 am You can pin the bolster to the brass liner. That's what I've always done.

I have tried that as well, but found if there is any pin sticking out from the liner it will rub the tang and kill the walk and talk of the blade.

Just like Dale mentioned, I've found that soldering (or re-soldering) bolsters that have come loose or are coming loose is the best way to go. Before soldering, I like to make sure that the points of contact with the underside of the bolsters and the metal liners they will be attached to have been heavily sanded and are perfectly clean. Just my 2-cents.

In the 2 new from scratch knives I have made and several shell handled conversions I have done, I have always soldered the bolsters on with the added protection of drilling 2 small holes in from the liner side partially into the bolster to create 2 "posts" of solder to strengthen the connection.

herbva wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2026 11:35 am Just like Dale mentioned, I've found that soldering (or re-soldering) bolsters that have come loose or are coming loose is the best way to go. Before soldering, I like to make sure that the points of contact with the underside of the bolsters and the metal liners they will be attached to have been heavily sanded and are perfectly clean. Just my 2-cents.

This is what I do as well. When soldered properly the bolsters will never come loose.
Jeff

orvet wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2026 5:46 am

American Blade 92 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2026 3:57 am You can pin the bolster to the brass liner. That's what I've always done.

I have tried that as well, but found if there is any pin sticking out from the liner it will rub the tang and kill the walk and talk of the blade.

You have to countersink the brass liner. Hammer the pin, then grind it flush. You'll have no blade rub.

Soldering with lead solder is entirely sufficient. I always use Stay Clean flux.
If soldering stainless parts, you have to use low-content silver solder (4% silver) and stay clean flux.

Solder it or pin it.
I have tried epoxy, and it looks worse then you want, and holds less than you think.

Reverand wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2026 8:19 pm Solder it or pin it.
I have tried epoxy, and it looks worse then you want, and holds less than you think.

agreed

Soldering is best. I hammer flatten a small piece of solder very thin, on a clean surface. With this very thin piece you can flux with stay clean and clamp in place before heating.

Thank you everyone for the advice. It looks like I'll be going the soldering route since that's what most of you are suggesting. Wish me luck.

Is there a certain type of solder that you have to use for brass?

Soldering brass to what?
Brass to brass- lead.
Brass to carbon steel-lead.
Brass to nickel silver-lead.

You can use silver -bearing solder (4% silver solder) for all the above, plus stainless steel. This solder is more expensive and requires a little more heat than plain lead.

There is also Tix brand solder that flows with much less heat than lead.

BTW- you need a torch. A soldering iron won't work.