All About Pocket Knives

Like many of us, I have knives with various types of punch or awl blades. Fairly recently, I encountered a task that lets me use a punch blade every workday.

I rotate my knives and today was the first day that I noticed one of my punch blades starting to lose its edge. It’s only dulling near the tip because that’s the only part of the punch that I use.

I’ve read some comments about using a file and someone pointed out the lawn mower blade attachment for the Dremel tool. Both of which I have on hand.

I was just wondering: How do you folks sharpen the punch/awl on your pocketknives?

Railsplitter wrote: ↑Thu Feb 19, 2026 8:44 pm I’ve read some comments about using a file and someone pointed out the lawn mower blade attachment for the Dremel tool. Both of which I have on hand.
I was just wondering: How do you folks sharpen the punch/awl on your pocketknives?

I would advise against using a file or a Dremel tool.
I would turn to stones using what ever degree of softness or hardness would be appropriate for the task
and end up using a hard stone. Stones are slow and sure.
I would also recommend water on the stone.

FRJ wrote: ↑Thu Feb 19, 2026 9:26 pm I would advise against using a file or a Dremel tool.
I would turn to stones using what ever degree of softness or hardness would be appropriate for the task
and end up using a hard stone. Stones are slow and sure.
I would also recommend water on the stone.

Thank you, Joe. Stones would be my preferred method as well but I have never tried to sharpen a punch or any blade with a bevel only on one side. Thought there might be a “trick” to it that I’m not aware of but I am probably overthinking it.

I've done very little sharpening of a punch and that was a while ago.

For me, I would concentrate on the previous bevel and carefully sharpen to the edge of that.

All the best, Rick.

FRJ wrote: ↑Thu Feb 19, 2026 11:59 pm I've done very little sharpening of a punch and that was a while ago.

For me, I would concentrate on the previous bevel and carefully sharpen to the edge of that.

All the best, Rick.

I will give that a whirl. I have an old Ulster Scout that is in decent shape but the punch is dull. I can still see the original bevel so hopefully I can follow that and get er sharp. I will practice on that first and take it from there. It would be nice to get the punch on that Ulster sharp. I’ve owned it for several years but never had the nerve to try and tackle that punch.

That would be like a bonus because I would carry the Ulster more often if I could use the punch.

Thanks again, Joe. I appreciate you responding. I’m gonna give it a shot.

Railsplitter wrote: ↑Fri Feb 20, 2026 12:33 am Thanks again, Joe. I appreciate you responding. I’m gonna give it a shot.

I hope it works for you, Rick.
I haven't used a leather punch much but when I did it was sharp and like blades when they're sharp, it was really nice to use.

Well, I got it sharpened. It looks like it was done by a toddler but I think it might work for my needs.

In my original post, I had forgotten that the punch is slightly bent near the tip. This caused the tip to be the only section of the edge that contacted the stones. I saw this happening but I continued on because as I mentioned in my original post, the tip is the only part of the punch that I use. The first picture is before I started and the second picture is the end result. I used diamond stones because that’s all I have. Started with Extra Course which I believe is 200 grit and then followed up with Fine which is 600 grit.

The tip feels sharp to the touch. I won’t know how it performs for my task until I go back to work on Wednesday. It ain’t pretty but I think it might work.

I’ll follow up with another post momentarily.

The task that I use a punch for is a very mundane task. I don’t get a chance to use my pocketknives very often but I stop for carry out coffee at least once a day on my part-time delivery route. Sometimes twice.

This gives me an opportunity to use my pocketknife at least once every workday. If it were not for this simple task, I would go for weeks or possibly months without ever using my knife.

I made a post about 3 years ago stating that I was worried that after I retired I would never have a reason to use my knives. But I found a reason and it brings me joy.

The breather hole on carry out coffee cup lids is NEVER wide enough so I use the punch to expand it. Works great and it makes drinking the coffee more enjoyable.

I really enjoy pulling my knife out of my pocket and doing this while my coffee is dispensing. One of life’s simple pleasures you might say.

I use an old Keen Kutter bastard file to reprofile tipped punch blades.

1967redrider wrote: ↑Fri Feb 20, 2026 3:10 pm I use an old Keen Kutter bastard file to reprofile tipped punch blades.

Thanks, John! What exactly is a bastard file?

A bastard is a coarse cut file. Were I to use a file to sharpen a punch blade I'd use something finer like a #2 file. John, remind me to tell you my file joke in Harrisonburg.

Gunsil wrote: ↑Fri Feb 20, 2026 3:35 pm A bastard is a coarse cut file. Were I to use a file to sharpen a punch blade I'd use something finer like a #2 file. John, remind me to tell you my file joke in Harrisonburg.

Thanks, Gene.

If I may: The term "Bastard" designates the coarseness of cut in the file. The origin of the term is researchable.
This cut just happens to be on a "lathe" file.

FRJ wrote: ↑Fri Feb 20, 2026 3:43 pm If I may: The term "Bastard" designates the coarseness of cut in the file. The origin of the term is researchable.
This cut just happens to be on a "lathe" file.

Gunsil wrote: ↑Fri Feb 20, 2026 3:35 pm A bastard is a coarse cut file. Were I to use a file to sharpen a punch blade I'd use something finer like a #2 file. John, remind me to tell you my file joke in Harrisonburg.

Gotcha!

My weapon of choice for sharpening awls is the ACCUsharp diamond file. It has both coarse and fine grits and a flip over handle cover. Works good. Run it dry and just sweep off the sharpenings with an old paint brush into the trash.

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Fri Feb 20, 2026 8:05 pm My weapon of choice for sharpening awls is the ACCUsharp diamond file. It has both coarse and fine grits and a flip over handle cover. Works good. Run it dry and just sweep off the sharpenings with an old paint brush into the trash.

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Looks like a good one. The awl on your SAK is the same type that I mentioned in my first post that I noticed recently that it’s starting to lose its edge. It’s the awl on my Farmer X. I haven’t attempted to touch that up yet but it’s up next.

I hope to do a much better job on it because the tip isn’t bent on that one. Those inline SAK awls work great. One of the best if not THE best that I have used so far.