All About Pocket Knives

I was given these two beaten up bex handled knives. Neither had any snap, mostly I suspect due to worn tangs. I wanted to rehandle them in ebony. However, my ebony comes from pen blanks and is not wide enough. So, maybe I will use tortoise shell kirinite, which is the only material I have on hand which is wide enough.
The tang on the master blade of the two blade is very badly worn, and had spread the bolsters of the knife. I need to look for someone to do a bit of welding to build up the tang. Alternatively, I believe I saw a thread somewhere on here where someone had used JB Weld to build up a tang? I am really not sure if that would work or not and am looking for advice?

JB weld will definitely not work to build up a worn tang. Welding will probably cost more than the knife is worth.

An alternative method is to plug the pivot hole, then move up and drill a new one. You will also need to grind some off of the back shoulder of the blade, or shorten the spring.
Here is a link to where I have done it. I have done this several times, and if you are careful it works well.

https://youtu.be/jZjaFl9A8Io?si=IWC6qqnVkTspsbYn

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Wed Jan 28, 2026 3:42 pm JB weld will definitely not work to build up a worn tang. Welding will probably cost more than the knife is worth.

Yeah, I really didn't think so. I do know a few welders.

Reverand wrote: ↑Wed Jan 28, 2026 10:28 pm An alternative method is to plug the pivot hole, then move up and drill a new one. You will also need to grind some off of the back shoulder of the blade, or shorten the spring.
Here is a link to where I have done it. I have done this several times, and if you are careful it works well.

https://youtu.be/jZjaFl9A8Io?si=IWC6qqnVkTspsbYn

Excellent video!! That may be quite a bit above my experience level, having only had 3 previous knives apart and back together.
But, I might have to give it a try.

If you need some other handle material options, please reach out. I'd be glad to send you some...

Thanks Glen, I will keep that in mind. We have a lumber yard here in Saskatoon that sells quite a large variety of hardwoods in small quantities. I got a 1" X 6" X 6" block of Tigerwood for $5. I will soon see how it is to work.

Reverand wrote: ↑Wed Jan 28, 2026 10:28 pm An alternative method is to plug the pivot hole, then move up and drill a new one. You will also need to grind some off of the back shoulder of the blade, or shorten the spring.
Here is a link to where I have done it. I have done this several times, and if you are careful it works well.

https://youtu.be/jZjaFl9A8Io?si=IWC6qqnVkTspsbYn

Hi Reverand
What is the minimum space that you will leave between the old hole and the new hole? I believe that I would have to grind back the tang on each of these knives about 2 mm. I just rewatched your video and it appears as if the new hole is almost touching the old hole?
Thanks
Dan

danno50 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 23, 2026 2:01 am

Reverand wrote: ↑Wed Jan 28, 2026 10:28 pm An alternative method is to plug the pivot hole, then move up and drill a new one. You will also need to grind some off of the back shoulder of the blade, or shorten the spring.
Here is a link to where I have done it. I have done this several times, and if you are careful it works well.

https://youtu.be/jZjaFl9A8Io?si=IWC6qqnVkTspsbYn

Hi Reverand
What is the minimum space that you will leave between the old hole and the new hole? I believe that I would have to grind back the tang on each of these knives about 2 mm. I just rewatched your video and it appears as if the new hole is almost touching the old hole?
Thanks
Dan

Here is how I have done the operation in question. Drill the hole larger, then cut a piece that will fit tightly in the hole and peen it so it cannot turn. Then drill the new hole offset from the original. The hardness of the tang that you are going to drill may be an issue.

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Mon Feb 23, 2026 12:06 pm

danno50 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 23, 2026 2:01 am

Reverand wrote: ↑Wed Jan 28, 2026 10:28 pm An alternative method is to plug the pivot hole, then move up and drill a new one. You will also need to grind some off of the back shoulder of the blade, or shorten the spring.
Here is a link to where I have done it. I have done this several times, and if you are careful it works well.

https://youtu.be/jZjaFl9A8Io?si=IWC6qqnVkTspsbYn

Hi Reverand
What is the minimum space that you will leave between the old hole and the new hole? I believe that I would have to grind back the tang on each of these knives about 2 mm. I just rewatched your video and it appears as if the new hole is almost touching the old hole?
Thanks
Dan

Here is how I have done the operation in question. Drill the hole larger, then cut a piece that will fit tightly in the hole and peen it so it cannot turn. Then drill the new hole offset from the original. The hardness of the tang that you are going to drill may be an issue.
IMG_4521.JPG

thanks, that is a good suggestion. I am currently doing a lot of pondering out in the workshop, trying to work up the nerve to get started.

danno50 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 23, 2026 2:01 am

Reverand wrote: ↑Wed Jan 28, 2026 10:28 pm An alternative method is to plug the pivot hole, then move up and drill a new one. You will also need to grind some off of the back shoulder of the blade, or shorten the spring.
Here is a link to where I have done it. I have done this several times, and if you are careful it works well.

https://youtu.be/jZjaFl9A8Io?si=IWC6qqnVkTspsbYn

Hi Reverand
What is the minimum space that you will leave between the old hole and the new hole? I believe that I would have to grind back the tang on each of these knives about 2 mm. I just rewatched your video and it appears as if the new hole is almost touching the old hole?
Thanks
Dan

The new hole does typically touch the top edge of the old hole. I had a friend who showed me this years ago, but I did not make it work myself until I followed some of Olde Cutler's posts (though I have not tried drilling out a larger hole like he just showed! There is always a new trick to learn!)
Most of the time you can measure the distance between the original hole and the front (or rear) edge of the tang. The back end of the tang should be about 1.5 times that measurement.
It is even better if I can compare it to a good blade and verify the placement.

Reverand wrote: ↑Tue Feb 24, 2026 12:05 am

danno50 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 23, 2026 2:01 am

Reverand wrote: ↑Wed Jan 28, 2026 10:28 pm An alternative method is to plug the pivot hole, then move up and drill a new one. You will also need to grind some off of the back shoulder of the blade, or shorten the spring.
Here is a link to where I have done it. I have done this several times, and if you are careful it works well.

https://youtu.be/jZjaFl9A8Io?si=IWC6qqnVkTspsbYn

Hi Reverand
What is the minimum space that you will leave between the old hole and the new hole? I believe that I would have to grind back the tang on each of these knives about 2 mm. I just rewatched your video and it appears as if the new hole is almost touching the old hole?
Thanks
Dan

The new hole does typically touch the top edge of the old hole. I had a friend who showed me this years ago, but I did not make it work myself until I followed some of Olde Cutler's posts (though I have not tried drilling out a larger hole like he just showed! There is always a new trick to learn!)
Most of the time you can measure the distance between the original hole and the front (or rear) edge of the tang. The back end of the tang should be about 1.5 times that measurement.
It is even better if I can compare it to a good blade and verify the placement.

Thanks for the reply, Reverand. I have been working on the handles while I work up the courage to work on the blades.

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Mon Feb 23, 2026 12:06 pm

danno50 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 23, 2026 2:01 am

Reverand wrote: ↑Wed Jan 28, 2026 10:28 pm An alternative method is to plug the pivot hole, then move up and drill a new one. You will also need to grind some off of the back shoulder of the blade, or shorten the spring.
Here is a link to where I have done it. I have done this several times, and if you are careful it works well.

https://youtu.be/jZjaFl9A8Io?si=IWC6qqnVkTspsbYn

Hi Reverand
What is the minimum space that you will leave between the old hole and the new hole? I believe that I would have to grind back the tang on each of these knives about 2 mm. I just rewatched your video and it appears as if the new hole is almost touching the old hole?
Thanks
Dan

Here is how I have done the operation in question. Drill the hole larger, then cut a piece that will fit tightly in the hole and peen it so it cannot turn. Then drill the new hole offset from the original. The hardness of the tang that you are going to drill may be an issue.

IMG_4521.JPG

For the piece you splice in, do you just use a larger nail. Or do you have pin stock thick enough to cut a slice to use?

For the repair I pictured above, I think I used 1/4 cold rolled rod and cut a thin slice to reline the 1/4 inch hole I drilled in the tang. This plug has to be heavily peened into the hole to assure that it never turns, or that will ruin your efforts. Then drill the new hole offset from the old one. This was used on a large Boker folding hunter knife. Smaller blades would likely need a smaller hole drilled.

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Thu Feb 26, 2026 10:34 pm For the repair I pictured above, I think I used 1/4 cold rolled rod and cut a thin slice to reline the 1/4 inch hole I drilled in the tang. This plug has to be heavily peened into the hole to assure that it never turns, or that will ruin your efforts. Then drill the new hole offset from the old one. This was used on a large Boker folding hunter knife. Smaller blades would likely need a smaller hole drilled.

Thanks for the reply. I believe I would need something a bit smaller.

I finally finished these two knives. They are far from perfect, but, are useable knives now. I ended up getting the tangs welded. Cost a bit, but, I wanted to try it. I stamped my initials and the year inside the liners.

I had trouble peening the pivot pin in side the rattail on the 2 blade bolster so it looks a little rough. I didn't want to bring it down any further as I didn't get a lot of countersink on the holes in the bolster. The master blade dropped too far into the blade well so I cut a small access notch. Handled in tiger wood. There was no tang stamp, so I stamped my initials in the tang. I think the single blade turned out a little better. Handled it in tortoise shell kirinite.

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Mon Feb 23, 2026 12:06 pm
Here is how I have done the operation in question. Drill the hole larger, then cut a piece that will fit tightly in the hole and peen it so it cannot turn. Then drill the new hole offset from the original. The hardness of the tang that you are going to drill may be an issue.
IMG_4521.JPG

That is very clever, and I think even if the shimmed insert turned back and forth slightly it wouldn't effect opening and closing.


They look excellent, Dan.

Thanks 1967redrider. My pinning definitely needs work. All pins on the two knives are 2.0 mm. I have a hard time judging how much pin to leave before starting to peen, and the finished product can end up as different sizes.

Looks pretty good from here! I always have issues peening rat-tail bolsters, don't think that it's just you...

Thanks Glen.

Those do look good!

They look like great users to me, which I love.

Agree, I would put those in my pocket right now.

Thanks Reverand, L8Tagain and Olde Cutler. I have the single blade in my pocket right now.