All About Pocket Knives

This is probably a dumb question but it’s been bugging me for some time. How does a small amount of wobble affect a blades performance. Not talking about a blade that is loose and obviously moves side to side, I’ve only ever seen that on some pretty trashed knives. Rather, you have to grasp a blade between both fingers and make it move manually. So how does that affect the performance of the blade? I can’t see how it does, so some expert opinions would be welcome.
Sorry if this has been covered before, but I don’t remember this coming up. Thanks.

In reality, deep down, I don't think a small amount of wobble affects performance at all. But, knowing it's there bothers some people, like me. So, I do my best to eliminate any wobble in the knives come into my possession or knives that I do any work on for friends.

I don't think a "small amount" of wobble is very troublesome.
Speaking from experience here; some of the blades in my knives wobble.
I don't like it but it hasn't bothered me. I collect old used knives for the most part.
I won't tolerate any more that a small amount. I have taken steps to alleviate wobble
in the past but it's been so long since I did I can't remember what it was that I did.
Light taps on the pivot pin I think.
I've got one coming to me. The seller says there is some wobble to it.

herbva wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2024 10:52 pm In reality, deep down, I don't think a small amount of wobble affects performance at all. But, knowing it's there bothers some people, like me. So, I do my best to eliminate any wobble in the knives come into my possession or knives that I do any work on for friends.

I am curious what you do to eliminate it? Any tips you could share would be appreciated and used. I have two or three with moderate and a few with a little. If there's a way to fix it, I'm in. Thanks for the hope. Thanks for commenting. I pretty much live with whatever wobble is there, accept it as part of the knife. A little I don't notice in cutting. But a lot makes for innacurrate scoring, etc. It doesn't help accuracy or precision cutting either.

I would think moderate wobble or more would make the knife feel
less secure in your hand. This could increase the probability you
would cut yourself and make the cut less perfect if going along
a straight line. Sharpness should increase performance . Difficult
material to cut should decrease performance.

I cut cardboard yesterday and today. If my blade was dull and had
wobble the task would have been difficult.

Bob

I have never noticed any detrimental affect from a small amount of wobble. I don’t obsess over it. If it has moderate to excessive wobble I wouldn’t buy it to carry and use. Too many other EDC possibilities without problems. It’d have to be a rare collectable or I’d pass on it.

There are several threads here about how to fix wobble (tightening in a vise, lightly tapping with a hammer, etc). Since it doesn’t bother me I haven’t tried any of them myself. Iman, see here for an example viewtopic.php?p=979011&hilit=Wobble#p979011

Ken

Ivoryman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 12:06 am

herbva wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2024 10:52 pm In reality, deep down, I don't think a small amount of wobble affects performance at all. But, knowing it's there bothers some people, like me. So, I do my best to eliminate any wobble in the knives come into my possession or knives that I do any work on for friends.

I am curious what you do to eliminate it? Any tips you could share would be appreciated and used. I have two or three with moderate and a few with a little. If there's a way to fix it, I'm in. Thanks for the hope. Thanks for commenting. I pretty much live with whatever wobble is there, accept it as part of the knife. A little I don't notice in cutting. But a lot makes for innacurrate scoring, etc. It doesn't help accuracy or precision cutting either.

It depends on what is causing the wobble. Most of the time, just a few light taps on the bolster, on each side, right where you can see the pivot pin head will do the job. Go very slow and be careful otherwise you will over tighten the pin and will lose the blade snap. So, recheck for wobble after each series of taps. I do this with a flat faced hammer and the knife resting flat on my 15lb anvil. Sometimes the problem is more serious and you will need to replace the pivot pin. You will know this is the problem if the wobble keeps coming back after only using the knife for short period of time.

herbva wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 10:59 am

Ivoryman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 12:06 am

herbva wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2024 10:52 pm In reality, deep down, I don't think a small amount of wobble affects performance at all. But, knowing it's there bothers some people, like me. So, I do my best to eliminate any wobble in the knives come into my possession or knives that I do any work on for friends.

I am curious what you do to eliminate it? Any tips you could share would be appreciated and used. I have two or three with moderate and a few with a little. If there's a way to fix it, I'm in. Thanks for the hope. Thanks for commenting. I pretty much live with whatever wobble is there, accept it as part of the knife. A little I don't notice in cutting. But a lot makes for innacurrate scoring, etc. It doesn't help accuracy or precision cutting either.

It depends on what is causing the wobble. Most of the time, just a few light taps on the bolster, on each side, right where you can see the pivot pin head will do the job. Go very slow and be careful otherwise you will over tighten the pin and will lose the blade snap. So, recheck for wobble after each series of taps. I do this with a flat faced hammer and the knife resting flat on my 15lb anvil. Sometimes the problem is more serious and you will need to replace the pivot pin. You will know this is the problem if the wobble keeps coming back after only using the knife for short period of time.

I always put a slacker in to prevent over doing it.

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 11:52 am I always put a slacker in to prevent over doing it.

.008?

FRJ wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 1:00 pm

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 11:52 am I always put a slacker in to prevent over doing it.

.008?

.008-.010 inch.

herbva wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 10:59 am

Ivoryman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 12:06 am

herbva wrote: ↑Mon Apr 01, 2024 10:52 pm In reality, deep down, I don't think a small amount of wobble affects performance at all. But, knowing it's there bothers some people, like me. So, I do my best to eliminate any wobble in the knives come into my possession or knives that I do any work on for friends.

I am curious what you do to eliminate it? Any tips you could share would be appreciated and used. I have two or three with moderate and a few with a little. If there's a way to fix it, I'm in. Thanks for the hope. Thanks for commenting. I pretty much live with whatever wobble is there, accept it as part of the knife. A little I don't notice in cutting. But a lot makes for innacurrate scoring, etc. It doesn't help accuracy or precision cutting either.

It depends on what is causing the wobble. Most of the time, just a few light taps on the bolster, on each side, right where you can see the pivot pin head will do the job. Go very slow and be careful otherwise you will over tighten the pin and will lose the blade snap. So, recheck for wobble after each series of taps. I do this with a flat faced hammer and the knife resting flat on my 15lb anvil. Sometimes the problem is more serious and you will need to replace the pivot pin. You will know this is the problem if the wobble keeps coming back after only using the knife for short period of time.

Thanks a bunch for the tips, really appreciate you sharing that. I would have thought a ball peen hammer rounded end would be the tool, but I'll try flat like you suggest. And is a small one better so only the pivot pin is struck? Or does it matter if you hit bolster and pivot pin simultaneously? Thanks again, very good of you to share the knowledge with us. That's a helpful tip, thanks, thanks, thanks.

I use a smallish flat-faced hammer for the pivot (bolster) pins because you are trying to swell out the end of the pin (think of a tulip shape), which locks the ends of the pins in place in the bolster. I use the ball end of a ball-peen hammer when I want roll the edges of the end of a pin to create a round, domed pin shape for scale pins and rocker pins. In both cases you should move the hammer strikes around in a circular fashion as you work. Just my preference. I'm sure there are many ways to do this stuff. There are some very good tutorials here on AAPK which cover this part of working on knives.

Ahhh, thanks again for the tips. Moving the flat hammer around, swell out the pin, thats the kind of details I appreciate. Makes more sense now and you drew me a picture with the wording. Really appreciate you taking the time to share details of your technique. Very helpful to my understanding. Thanks again and great day to ya.