Leverlock “rescue”
Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 10:49 pm
I recently purchased, what appeared to be a very rusty, “type I” Weltersbach shell puller leverlock. Since all of the parts were there, except the kickspring and the price was right, I bought the knife to attempt a repair.
Upon further inspection, besides the rust and the missing spring, The steel liners were also quite bent, so the stag would require removal to straighten them. (I forgot to take photos of that process.) I also discovered that the the front bolsters were cast from some type of “pot metal” and plated. Since the plating was mostly gone, they were even more brittle. The rear bolsters were hollow, but sturdier.
As I took the knife apart, the shell puller bolsters “fell apart”. I used JB Weld and some thin gauge metal to “laminate” them back together, hoping to preserve the “look” of the original knife.
The rest of the “take down” went without significant issue. I was also able to fabricate a new, working kickspring with a little careful filing and heat treating.
I had read that Weltersbach had used some labor and cost-saving measures in making their “for export” leverlock knives. (Hence, the use of cast bolsters on some models, instead of nickel silver. ) The steel liners on my knife terminate behind the cast metal shell puller “guards” create a weak point. (“Regular” Weltersbach leverlock knife liners extend all the way under the rounded front bolsters, I discovered. ) Anyway, my shell pullers snapped off clean, flush with the steel liners.
Disappointed but undaunted, I proceeded with reassembly. I had taken the time to use some of the advice about methods of addressing “blade peak” and was eventually rewarded with a well-functioning “ex-shellpuller” leverlock EDC.
I’m happy with the results, and should I choose, I believe I could fashion some nice nickel silver bolsters to replace the “reinforced pot-metal”. However, until the old bolsters “fail”, I’m not sure the extra effort is warranted, especially since the blade, while very “complete”, is pitted to the point that the only tang marks discernible are “Solingen Germany”.
Thanks to all who have contributed to Talkblade and AAPK regarding switchblade repair, especially Mr. Bill De Shivs! I’m a bit smarter every time I read the many posts!
Upon further inspection, besides the rust and the missing spring, The steel liners were also quite bent, so the stag would require removal to straighten them. (I forgot to take photos of that process.) I also discovered that the the front bolsters were cast from some type of “pot metal” and plated. Since the plating was mostly gone, they were even more brittle. The rear bolsters were hollow, but sturdier.
As I took the knife apart, the shell puller bolsters “fell apart”. I used JB Weld and some thin gauge metal to “laminate” them back together, hoping to preserve the “look” of the original knife.
The rest of the “take down” went without significant issue. I was also able to fabricate a new, working kickspring with a little careful filing and heat treating.
I had read that Weltersbach had used some labor and cost-saving measures in making their “for export” leverlock knives. (Hence, the use of cast bolsters on some models, instead of nickel silver. ) The steel liners on my knife terminate behind the cast metal shell puller “guards” create a weak point. (“Regular” Weltersbach leverlock knife liners extend all the way under the rounded front bolsters, I discovered. ) Anyway, my shell pullers snapped off clean, flush with the steel liners.
Disappointed but undaunted, I proceeded with reassembly. I had taken the time to use some of the advice about methods of addressing “blade peak” and was eventually rewarded with a well-functioning “ex-shellpuller” leverlock EDC.
I’m happy with the results, and should I choose, I believe I could fashion some nice nickel silver bolsters to replace the “reinforced pot-metal”. However, until the old bolsters “fail”, I’m not sure the extra effort is warranted, especially since the blade, while very “complete”, is pitted to the point that the only tang marks discernible are “Solingen Germany”.
Thanks to all who have contributed to Talkblade and AAPK regarding switchblade repair, especially Mr. Bill De Shivs! I’m a bit smarter every time I read the many posts!
